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^^^ YES ... for any block below 1995.5 you will need the $45 PHR fitting so you can still use the banjo bolt with the check valve for your vvti hard line. Just minor bending is needed. That is exactly what I got since Craig's short block was a 1993 . Jimmymac used the same fitting on his blue SC NA-T . Then you get a Lexus Union bolt with a BSPT to
NPT adapter then a triple T fitting so you can connect the oil pressure sensor you took out from that 1/8 npt hole , a sensor for either an oil gauge or better ECU fail-safe and of course an oil supply feed to the turbo.
Probably dropping this thing tomorrow in the engine bay if I don't get lazy . I can't believe I finally have an NA-T to add to my toys. If am happy with the performance of this SC , I will do a fully built VVTi NA-T and 6 speed and aim for over +1KRWHP so if this one konks out on me , I have something I can just swap in . This SC is originally manual after all and still has the original manual pedals.
Wow, looks pretty much complete... you work fast! I ordered the PHR adapter so I guess I am set on the vvti front then.
I have used a regular 1/8 NPT to AN adapter on the Is300 union bolt before with sealant and no leaks, but the BSPT to NPT adapter or re-tapping are the best ways to do it.
I have a left over Tee adapter from my original na-t kit, and I think it is bspt.. has 4an on the side and a spot on the top for the oil pressure sensor so I will probably try that.
I used the IS300 union bolt at the oil filter housing on my car. I used an Earl's BSPT to NPT adaptor as-is and used some Permatex sensor safe thread sealant before hooking up my VDO pressure sender. I have no issues with leaks on mine with no re-tapping but... maybe that is best? Although I thought these pieces used tapered threads.
Ali, I think Gerry has nearly every 2JZ part and tool he could ever need right at his disposal... and he does work fast!
Hahaha , I told you , it won't be long and your short block will be running soon . I still don't have yet the turbo and the manifold . I can drop it now though and run it as NA just to be able to move it around. My mind is still dilly dallying on the turbo size . I need to fix my power goal on this car so I can make a final decision on the turbo. Exhaust manifold is definitely the Treadstone Exhaust manifold.
Originally Posted by megamax
Gerry, ur alive. glad to see ur still at it. I figured you would have a ugr tt galardo right now.
TT Gallardo isn't for me my friend , too flashy. Am about to put another MKIV on the market . All my kids are telling me to bite the bullet on an Alpha Omega GT-R or at least an Alpha 16 GT-R which is 1600rwhp ... a fantastic sleeper . If I sell another MKIV , I should be able to jump on one. The Alpha Omega is at $225k and the Alpha 16 is a bit cheaper . Looks to me the MKV will be a real disappointment and I don't see them bringing out a 6 speed version in the near future so a GT-R is what I am contemplating for a while now.
At times I ask myself what am I still doing with these SCs ... well, they keep me busy and a lot cheaper to play with , hahaha.
Originally Posted by Ali SC3
Wow, looks pretty much complete... you work fast!
It is complete enough to be able to start it as an N/A so I can putt it around. I was about to drop it yesterday on the bay and when I lifted the engine bay hood, I saw things I didn't want . The car is a 1993 SC300 5 speed but I have replaced basically every damn thing on this car's electrical wiring / components and a lot of mechanical stuff . That ABS won't work since it is for a 1993 and every wiring on this car is now from a 2000 SC300. So it has to go with its lines.
Found some 3an lines and decided that I will go ABS delete just like Red Mamba.
As in every performance car project , you start wanting to work on one thing and you keep on finding things you want to do . Since I was removing the brake lines and go ABS delete , I said , why don't I change now the brake lines with braided lines and front brakes with LS brakes . I still have the brakes that came from my buddy Aaron .
Then I said , since the wheels and brakes will be out , I might as well change the shocks and springs of this car . You see how a project can baloon . It has lowering springs , Tanabe NF210 but I want it a bit more lowered so am installing the RSR lowering springs with Tokico Shocks .
They used to be on this red car but I had to install coil springs on the Red Mamba since I have very wide wheels and tires on that car ....345/30R19 Toyo R888 at the rear . I need to be able to adjust the suspension.
This is how low the car should look once they are installed and the suspension had settled. It should look good for a run around / beater car.
I’ve pretty much decided I want to build another 2JZ (Never really left CL). I now rock a LS460 sport as a daily and the wifey drives the GX.
I just can’t decide on what chassis I want to start from:
01-05 IS300, preferrably manual chassis, NA-T VVTi build
92-97 SC300, manual Non-VVTi NA-T build / JDM ECU
98-2000 Auto, and do an NA-T Auto VVTi build like you or like Lawrence Shipman accomplished on his 1999. Run AEM or ProEFI parallel with the stock ecu.
I have always believed that manual is always the way to go and is a lot more fun IMO, but the temptation to build the aristo VVTi auto with coolers is tempting because it seems fairly simple and straightforward, and handles the power well / launches smooth.
I’ll be watching your conversion closely and taking note.
It's amazing how there is never ending information added to this thread with every update.
Glad this thread is able to provide some useful information to help people which was the very purpose of this thread as mentioned in the first few pages..
This thread will most likely hit its 1,000,000 views before the end of the year which shows people go back to it to probably learn a thing or two . It had averaged more than 350 views every day for the past almost 7 years .
Originally Posted by HiPSI
Amazing work as always Gerry!
I’ve pretty much decided I want to build another 2JZ (Never really left CL). I now rock a LS460 sport as a daily and the wifey drives the GX.
I just can’t decide on what chassis I want to start from:
01-05 IS300, preferrably manual chassis, NA-T VVTi build
92-97 SC300, manual Non-VVTi NA-T build / JDM ECU
98-2000 Auto, and do an NA-T Auto VVTi build like you or like Lawrence Shipman accomplished on his 1999. Run AEM or ProEFI parallel with the stock ecu.
I have always believed that manual is always the way to go and is a lot more fun IMO, but the temptation to build the aristo VVTi auto with coolers is tempting because it seems fairly simple and straightforward, and handles the power well / launches smooth.
I’ll be watching your conversion closely and taking note.
Glad , you decided to get into another 2JZ project. IF it is just a toy , an auto SC shell is the cheaper way to start with. 5 speed SCs are not that cheap now a days and not so easy to find . An SC will always be the best chassis for a boosted 2jz next to the MKIV since most parts from one can be installed to the other. Aftermarket support is plentiful..
I guess it all depends on the use of the car that will help you decide to go manual or automatic , at what power level and then at what cost you are looking at to spend .
What I laid out in the last page or two will be IMHO the best route for anyone who just want a 400-500 rwhp toy without spending a lot of money. Having a manual has always been looked up to be the best but I would say , if you have the funds to do it right and you really prefer banging gears manually then go for it . But it doesn't necessarily mean it is better than a manual car . It is a preference thing. The use / purpose of the car has a lot to do with it too.
As you mentioned , Lawrence made +800rwhp on a PT6870 on an NA-T. That is a lot of power on the streets. Let me emphasize that when you go beyond the stock ECU power , having a well tuned aftermarket ECU is the secret aside of course from the drivetrain being strong enough for the said power goal.
Someone was asking why the hell people take out the ABS when it helps a lot in breaking ? Nobody is debating that fact . It will be a personal preference . One thing that you have to ask yourself is why is it that many performance cars like Nascar , F1 Formula and IRL (Indy) cars do not have ABS system ? Not having an ABS doesn't mean it is a less safe car . Every car prior to the late 80s never had ABS. Not gonna expound more on this topic ...on which is better with or without ABS , a lot of sites you can go and read. It is just a personal preference that is why I am taking them out in some of my cars. All I can say is if you don't know how to drive a car without ABS then don't take it out .
I haven't finished the ABS delete on the current beater car project since am now contemplating on re-using the hard lines for the its ABS delete but here are a couple of pictures on the Red Mamba when I did the ABS delete using 3an braided brake lines. May not be exactly the same since I had a Hurst Line Lock for the front wheels on that car. Excuse the dirty bay since I was still building it then .,
left and right wheel well
Inside the bay
more space on that corner by removing that ABS and its lines
as mentioned , I have a line lock so some lines go to it instead of the master cylinder so this may not be for every one
Gerry, love everything you're doing! always have!! if anyone has any questions about going na-t and making power, i'd be happy to help and answer any questions they may have. I am currently building 2 na-t cars. a sportcross and another sc300. I am tempted to do an sc430 build too but I have yet to decide if i want to modify a perfectly good car. Hope all is well with you!!
Gerry, love everything you're doing! always have!! if anyone has any questions about going na-t and making power, i'd be happy to help and answer any questions they may have. I am currently building 2 na-t cars. a sportcross and another sc300. I am tempted to do an sc430 build too but I have yet to decide if i want to modify a perfectly good car. Hope all is well with you!!
Jim
Originally Posted by jimmymac30
also, do you think the aristo trans can handle 500rwhp? just curious
There you go , this guy ^^^ has a 600rwhp NA-T on a W58 tripod version on a +200k miles original non vvti short block. He will always be willing to help you guys and answer your questions as he did whenever I had some questions on his setup. If he was near , all my cars will be painted by his shop... hahaha. Dang , I like how that blue paint job on that SC came out . BTW , for every one , you cannot abuse a W58 with that power level assuming it's torque is already above 350ft.lbs. It is on borrowed times. I know Jim has other plans for the transmission eventually when it konks out.
Jim, with a good number of coolers (I usually use 3 huge ones) I don't see any reason why a stock healthy (one that hasn't been abused yet) Aristo VVTi TT transmission won't handle 500rwhp . Heat and torque (ft.lbs) is what kills auto transmissions . If you observe trucks with auto trans and used for pullling , they have huge transmission oil coolers . Lawrence's +800rwhp car still had a stock Aristo VVTi TTT transmission (controlled by the stock ecu) that basically had just be shimmed to change the shifting speed and used the valve body from a vvti SC300 ..... but mechanically, basically it was stock . So, I firmly believe it will easily withstand that 500rwhp. One of the weakness of the TT auto trans at least with the non vvti was it's 2nd gear sprag so learning how to use it properly can help it survive . Most of all , a good ecu controller for the TT transmission will help it survive longer. Harsh shifts can be damaging .
There you go , this guy ^^^ has a 600rwhp NA-T on a W58 tripod version on a +200k miles original non vvti short block. He will always be willing to help you guys and answer your questions as he did whenever I had some questions on his setup. If he was near , all my cars will be painted by his shop... hahaha. Dang , I like how that blue paint job on that SC came out . BTW , for every one , you cannot abuse a W58 with that power level assuming it's torque is already above 350ft.lbs. It is on borrowed times. I know Jim has other plans for the transmission eventually when it konks out.
Jim, with a good number of coolers (I usually use 3 huge ones) I don't see any reason why a stock healthy (one that hasn't been abused yet) Aristo VVTi TT transmission won't handle 500rwhp . Heat and torque (ft.lbs) is what kills auto transmissions . If you observe trucks with auto trans and used for pullling , they have huge transmission oil coolers . Lawrence's +800rwhp car still had a stock Aristo VVTi TTT transmission (controlled by the stock ecu) that basically had just be shimmed to change the shifting speed and used the valve body from a vvti SC300 ..... but mechanically, basically it was stock . So, I firmly believe it will easily withstand that 500rwhp. One of the weakness of the TT auto trans at least with the non vvti was it's 2nd gear sprag so learning how to use it properly can help it survive . Most of all , a good ecu controller for the TT transmission will help it survive longer. Harsh shifts can be damaging .
Thanks Gerry!!! I am building an auto is300 sportcross with auto trans and have been going back and forth on what to do (atf stage 2 or not) since I really only want it to be 400-500hp. And yes, my car is running a stock 220K bottom end and a w58 trans. I don't dump the clutch and i don't "slam" gears. has been holding up well to 521lb/ft torque to the rear wheels :-)
Jim - what flywheel , pressure plate and clutch are you using again ? The info can help those who want to use a W58 tripod version for now if they have it.
for that 400-500rwhp , you don't need an ATF built auto trans in my opinion. Install a couple of good trans coolers and will be good . ATF trans are pricey and not worth it IMHO if you are just aiming for that hp.
that IS00 wil be nice .... someone just sent me a text message wanting to trade a 5 speed 2003 IS300 with the black 1997 sc300 5 speed .
Gerry, If the link isn't allowed per forum rules, please remove. I am using the ACT Extreme 6 Puck W58 clutch kit with a stock flywheel. It is rated to 448lb/ft torque and was the highest I could find anywhere.
01-15-19, 12:41 PM
. I can't believe I finally have an NA-T to add to my toys. If am happy with the performance of this SC , I will do a fully built VVTi NA-T and 6 speed and aim for over +1KRWHP 
so if this one konks out on me , I have something I can just swap in . This SC is originally manual after all and still has the original manual pedals.
... well, they keep me busy and a lot cheaper to play with , hahaha.
. You see how a project can baloon . It has lowering springs , Tanabe NF210 but I want it a bit more lowered so am installing the RSR lowering springs with Tokico Shocks .
