1992Lexus.. Complete build thread with pictures and links!
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 63
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From: al
My setup is as follows:
2JZ na block bored ,40 over.
2JZ port and Polish CNC head with all the goodies
The shop E85 proof fuel system Complete
The shop HKS F con v pro tuned by The Shop
The shop originl SH4367mm billet turbo kevlar timing belt.
The shop 2jz head with jun valve springs, ti retainer, jun intershim bucket valves, ross engineering intake manifold
hks 272 cams
tial 44mm wastegate
R154 tranny with Spec stage 5 clutch
and any other goodies im forgetting.
Car made 650rwhp @16lbs and 850rwhp @24lbs
2JZ na block bored ,40 over.
2JZ port and Polish CNC head with all the goodies
The shop E85 proof fuel system Complete
The shop HKS F con v pro tuned by The Shop
The shop originl SH4367mm billet turbo kevlar timing belt.
The shop 2jz head with jun valve springs, ti retainer, jun intershim bucket valves, ross engineering intake manifold
hks 272 cams
tial 44mm wastegate
R154 tranny with Spec stage 5 clutch
and any other goodies im forgetting.
Car made 650rwhp @16lbs and 850rwhp @24lbs
^^^ Unless you wanna come out of pocket for a new Turbo i will " turn them UP"
What Bov are you running ? when you say "turn down" it sound to me like you have the HKS maybe?
Can you post some pics if you don't and am sure Mark won't mind either.
Any dyno graph?
Not saying that you are lying but i have never seen a shop that will tell their custumer not to install a bov on your turbo setup , or tell you that you don't need one this is the first one.
I will always run bov on whatever setup i build for myself or someone else, the second most expensive part on my car is the Turbo lol so i am running (2) bovs.
It's a $300 that will save the $1800 Turbo so i ll run one atleast.
What Bov are you running ? when you say "turn down" it sound to me like you have the HKS maybe?
Can you post some pics if you don't and am sure Mark won't mind either.
Any dyno graph?
Not saying that you are lying but i have never seen a shop that will tell their custumer not to install a bov on your turbo setup , or tell you that you don't need one this is the first one.
I will always run bov on whatever setup i build for myself or someone else, the second most expensive part on my car is the Turbo lol so i am running (2) bovs.
It's a $300 that will save the $1800 Turbo so i ll run one atleast.
Last edited by 99SC42; Dec 7, 2011 at 06:24 PM.
Thread Starter
1JZ Single SC400
iTrader: (59)
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 8,518
Likes: 17
From: Alabama, Roll Tide!
Those are some impressive numbers. I have personally driven this SC and it freaking screams. I was scared to punch. Thanks again Jay for letting ease on it. Lol
Thread Starter
1JZ Single SC400
iTrader: (59)
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 8,518
Likes: 17
From: Alabama, Roll Tide!
They are Power Enterprise 800cc. Just google their website. Direct plug and play. I installed them yesterday. They are expensive. 160 each. Pictures will be uploaded of some progress yesterday.
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Thread Starter
1JZ Single SC400
iTrader: (59)
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 8,518
Likes: 17
From: Alabama, Roll Tide!
Did a little bit of tinkering in the garage yesterday. It was a miserable cold day in Alabama. Enjoy the pictures..
Started out cleaning the intake side with a wire brush awaiting the install and new gaskets
Grabbed the painted fuel rail and did the same for both sides..
Installed sensor..
Cleaned the head side of the intake... same method
Installed fuel rail with new metal OEM gaskets...
Polished it up by hand one more time before placing on... Installed the front throttle body...
Here how it will look....
Installed throttle cable bracket with screws...
Installed line under throttle body...
Got new metal fuel orings...
Installed on line on back side..
Done and tightened...
Started to do the timing belt and fron tmain seal just for insurance... line up to 0!
Lined up right cam... on the money...
Same for right...
Whole thing lined up...
Started out cleaning the intake side with a wire brush awaiting the install and new gaskets
Grabbed the painted fuel rail and did the same for both sides..
Installed sensor..
Cleaned the head side of the intake... same method
Installed fuel rail with new metal OEM gaskets...
Polished it up by hand one more time before placing on... Installed the front throttle body...
Here how it will look....
Installed throttle cable bracket with screws...
Installed line under throttle body...
Got new metal fuel orings...
Installed on line on back side..
Done and tightened...
Started to do the timing belt and fron tmain seal just for insurance... line up to 0!
Lined up right cam... on the money...
Same for right...
Whole thing lined up...
Thread Starter
1JZ Single SC400
iTrader: (59)
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 8,518
Likes: 17
From: Alabama, Roll Tide!
More progress...
Assured at TDC, look closely you can see the top of the piston in the number one hole...
have to remove starter to release the timing belt tensioner...
Bottom lined up correctly before loosing up the timing belt... Use a 22MM and a chain vise grip pliers to remove the crank pulley...
Pull out seal with seal puller...
Install new one, dont have part number... I use 100% silicone aorund the out edge of the seal...
Installed....
Remove this piece with a 5MM allen wrench to clear the back piece upon the reinstallment...
Place this piece on the back of the bottom piece, make sure you have it facing the right direction and its installed on the grooved notch.
Assured at TDC, look closely you can see the top of the piston in the number one hole...
have to remove starter to release the timing belt tensioner...
Bottom lined up correctly before loosing up the timing belt... Use a 22MM and a chain vise grip pliers to remove the crank pulley...
Pull out seal with seal puller...
Install new one, dont have part number... I use 100% silicone aorund the out edge of the seal...
Installed....
Remove this piece with a 5MM allen wrench to clear the back piece upon the reinstallment...
Place this piece on the back of the bottom piece, make sure you have it facing the right direction and its installed on the grooved notch.
not supp to put any sealants on the front seal. some oilpumps have orifices that allow oil to lube and you could clog that. the seal should do its job and seal if you properly clean the surface that its going onto and live its life up to around 80-100k miles
Thread Starter
1JZ Single SC400
iTrader: (59)
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 8,518
Likes: 17
From: Alabama, Roll Tide!
Thanks guys. You all give me the inspiration to continue it.
Any one else confirm the silicone around the front main seal. Done this in all other engines I have owned. Different for the 1jz?
Any one else confirm the silicone around the front main seal. Done this in all other engines I have owned. Different for the 1jz?
I have a friend that always changes the oil pump when he does a swap. I'm kinda new to messing with JZ engines but he leads me to believe they have a high failure rate. I didn't change mine or do my seals yet on my swap. I figured i do all of that after I get my car mostly complete.