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1992Lexus.. Complete build thread with pictures and links!

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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 06:25 PM
  #136  
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Thank you for the link. I was already reading another link provided in yours. That answers my question somewhat. I need more specific details. I also have been reading that the Brian Crowers cams provide more useable power, like twice what the these USDM 2JZGTE will provide. I think I am going to wait on these to become in stock. I really dont want to, but i want to be happy with the motor once put in. If anyone can provide better results, possibly a dynograph or specific specs, please chime in and post. Thanks
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Old Oct 28, 2011 | 01:01 PM
  #137  
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A little more done today. Mounted the starter back on, It looked in the correct alignment with the new flywheel. My exhaust gasket come in the mail today. Thanks CL member! I reinstalled the manifold, torques the bolts to 39 ft pounds, reinstalled the turbo with a new gasket and new bolts, then the oil lines. Almost everything is mounted on the exhaust side of the motor. I took a few pictures, but everyone prolly knows what a starter looks like installed on the 1JZ. :-)

Just got a phone call about the shifter being completed along with the water pump housing holes filled in, plus the turbo blanket come in. I will try and pick these up today and post pictures of the job over the weekend.

Pictures....










Last edited by 1JZPWRD; Oct 29, 2011 at 04:13 PM.
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 01:41 PM
  #138  
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Did a few things last night. I went by and picked up my welded parts, and I am NOT happy with the look. Its shabby, but for the $40 price it will have to do, plus there is no one else around here who can weld aluminum. I installed the water pump top part with a new seal, and installed the Tial Wastegate. I tested it with compressed air and it works great. The spring is set at 18 for now. I also cleaned/removed the old gasket maker around the head for the valve covers. Still waiting on cams. Went ahead and installed heat wrap around the one header pipe and the oil return line. Will not be seen once the intake of the turbo is back on. Here is a few pictures of the progress.







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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 03:36 PM
  #139  
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I don't trust those gaskets u are using. They came with my 3sgte and 1jz manifolds and they don't last long. Just use the oem metal Gaskets.
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Old Nov 3, 2011 | 04:34 AM
  #140  
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The reason is why it looks like that, is because they used a "Spool Gun".

It's a MIG welder with a aluminum spool of filler wire attached to it.

Not a pretty as a TIG, but who's gunna see it?

Good progress, and for the love of god, get that wastegate outlet plumbed back in!

Huge exhaust leaks are not cool, Beavis. Uh huh uhuh huh huhu huhu huh!
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Old Nov 3, 2011 | 09:22 AM
  #141  
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Nice looking build. Thanks for sharing.
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Old Nov 3, 2011 | 10:00 AM
  #142  
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Originally Posted by b2designs
Nice looking build. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks man... I appreciate the comments, its been slow, but I am sure it will be better than my original power goals.
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Old Nov 7, 2011 | 12:44 PM
  #143  
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Update.. I ordered the R154 parts today, hubcentric ring, Marlin Crawler shifter bushing, washer, and speed sensor, four quarts of Redline MT90 tranny fluid, and 2 main seals, front and rear. I will be dropping off the shifter for the 2 inch shifter extension locally. The TRD shift **** came in the mail today also. Looks amazing. I am on the hunt for the BW .68 hot side for this turbo. Must be 3 inch V band flange, instead of the four I have currently.. Its just too big.
I was hoping this thing was going to be ready for this weekend meet with IA, but it will have to be next year.. I will still be attending in a grey S2000.
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 01:14 PM
  #144  
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so do you NEED a bolt locking ring for a oem flywheel?? i don't have one, am i screwed??
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 01:27 PM
  #145  
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Originally Posted by DoomLight
I don't trust those gaskets u are using. They came with my 3sgte and 1jz manifolds and they don't last long. Just use the oem metal Gaskets.
im going to second this. i used the same gaskets that came with my manifold that looks similar to the ones you used and the motor blew the exhaust gasket on the dyno. replaced it with the stock gasket as my tuner recommended and has been fine since.
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 02:34 PM
  #146  
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We will see what it does. I tightened it up evenly and enough torque to move the garage.. lol. I hope I have better luck with mine. If not, I will replace it with an original one. Thanks for the advice!
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 04:40 PM
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yeah, id probably contribute the gasket blowing to me not torquing it evenly or something. i cant remember that far back lol
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 05:19 AM
  #148  
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Originally Posted by megamax
so do you NEED a bolt locking ring for a oem flywheel?? i don't have one, am i screwed??

No, just a little bit of insurance is all it provides. Not a necessary item.
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 06:04 AM
  #149  
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its not about how good u torqued it. the material is lousy. i still have my 1jz exhaust gasket sitting on my dresser. its very flimsy material. its gonna blow on you dude. the OEM gaskets are BOSS. i'd switch them before you go to far. removing the exhaust manifold whether it be stock or aftermarket is gonna be a wh0re, do it now while the motor is out the car.

i just dont want u to do more work man. not tryin to tell u what to do

Last edited by DoomLight; Nov 9, 2011 at 06:08 AM.
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 05:07 PM
  #150  
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I am on the hunt for a metal exhaust manifold gasket. This means I have to undo a few things to remove it, but I want it done right. I thought for sure this gasket that was given to me was going to be ok.. I didnt hear about anyone blowing theirs out on the dyno or having problems, until the last few posts on my build. If you have one, LMK. I ordered the tranny mount and slave cylinder today, but I have finally found the stock 2JZ mounts and brackets. These I have just wont work. Lastly, I have on the way the rear portion of the drivetrain out of a SC300. Sweet, drivetrain complete, just need to inspec the rubber piece once arrives. I also made a top shifter housing piece, since No ONE would sell me just the top piece off their setup. I need to apply some thin washers inbetween this piece and the housing, but make sure the MC shifter seal is tight and no leaks found. Figured out to adapt rubber orings for the bolts that holds the shifter housing in place, there are 6 screws, of course. I went to Oreilys and they had a box of windshield washer rubbers, package of three. I cut them in half and wolla, now I have 6, works perfect. I also couldnt find tese rubberorings anywhere, so these will work for now. Here are a few pictures of the slow progress, but some is better than none, I guess.

Package they came in..


Remove the center piece with screwdriver...


Installed on old bolt..


Shifter housing plate..


Cut out and driled for holes... Not perfect, but it works and serves the purpose.. Its strong!


Heat wrapped the manifold and the turbo. Used metal wire wrap for the bottom piece and clamps for the piping.

Turbo wrapped... with DEI wrap, up to 2000 degrees.


Thanks to another member, I decided to stick with the exhaust housing due to mne being a T4 turbo along with a T4 manifold. He gave me the contact info and Rob hooked me up with the adaptors and the V blade clamps. Will order them on Friday. Thanks, you know who you are!

Final note, the BC cams are in stock, will order them next week.
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