Automotive Care & Detailing Discussions on washing, waxing, polishing, detailing, cleaning and maintaining the beauty of your Lexus.

First time detailing LS. Still a little confused after doing research.

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Old 02-22-18, 02:44 PM
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Blkexcoupe
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Meguiars M205 is an easy and affordable polish to work with.

Without seeing the haze in person it's hard to say what is causing it, but here are some possibilities:
1. Make sure you're using the right pad (polishing or light cutting followed by polishing). If you are using a cutting pad it'll leave the paint hazy.
2. Product isn't completely broken down or over worked. Another drop of polish and reworking the panel should help it come off. Using a product like carpro eraser or equivalent will help too.

Get a Steralite clear plastic container from walmart or target. It shouldn't be more than $5 and will keep all your towels clean.

When applying a wax, most of the wax is removed and only a little bit bonds with the paint. 2 layers ensures even coverage, but waste a product.

Something else to keep in mind is that the pads should be cleaned to remove polish build up. Have multiples of every kind of pad while working on the car or take breaks in between panels to give the pads a chance to cool down. Once the pads start softening the pads don't do much besides smear the polish on the panel. The same is true for towels, use a lot of clean towels to remove polish and wax residue.
Old 02-22-18, 05:09 PM
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FatherTo1
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Originally Posted by Blkexcoupe
Meguiars M205 is an easy and affordable polish to work with.

Without seeing the haze in person it's hard to say what is causing it, but here are some possibilities:
1. Make sure you're using the right pad (polishing or light cutting followed by polishing). If you are using a cutting pad it'll leave the paint hazy.
2. Product isn't completely broken down or over worked. Another drop of polish and reworking the panel should help it come off. Using a product like carpro eraser or equivalent will help too.

Get a Steralite clear plastic container from walmart or target. It shouldn't be more than $5 and will keep all your towels clean.

When applying a wax, most of the wax is removed and only a little bit bonds with the paint. 2 layers ensures even coverage, but waste a product.

Something else to keep in mind is that the pads should be cleaned to remove polish build up. Have multiples of every kind of pad while working on the car or take breaks in between panels to give the pads a chance to cool down. Once the pads start softening the pads don't do much besides smear the polish on the panel. The same is true for towels, use a lot of clean towels to remove polish and wax residue.
Thanks, Blkexcoupe. I went ahead and ordered some M205.

When applying Ultimate Polish, M205, or any polish, how long do you work it (15 secs, 30 secs, longer)? Do you work it until it dries and things out? Also, how do you knew you've worked it long enough to remove scratches (since you can't see the status of scratches while the polish is being applied)?
Old 02-22-18, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by FatherTo1
Thanks, Blkexcoupe. I went ahead and ordered some M205.

When applying Ultimate Polish, M205, or any polish, how long do you work it (15 secs, 30 secs, longer)? Do you work it until it dries and things out? Also, how do you knew you've worked it long enough to remove scratches (since you can't see the status of scratches while the polish is being applied)?
The time varies based on the polish, but you want it to thin out. If it dries out it'll be hard to take off. You want to work the polish until it starts turning clear (best way I can think to describe it). The polish will never be perfectly clear, but it'll start becoming more transparent the longer you work it. It's one of those things you'll pick up on the more practice you get.
Old 03-31-18, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Blkexcoupe
The time varies based on the polish, but you want it to thin out. If it dries out it'll be hard to take off. You want to work the polish until it starts turning clear (best way I can think to describe it). The polish will never be perfectly clear, but it'll start becoming more transparent the longer you work it. It's one of those things you'll pick up on the more practice you get.
Just reporting back. I finally tried the M205 today as part of the full wash, clay, polish, wax regimen. The M205 is definitely much easier to work with and more forgiving of my mistakes. What took me 4-hours to complete last October "only" took 3-hours to finish everything this time around and the M205 is a big part of that time savings. I am getting better experienced at it and stopping the DA buffer when the polish is still moist makes it so easy to wipe off. If I get the polish too thin or stretch it to an area too large then I still get the dried residue and curse myself for being impatient. However, the residue wipes off with much less effort than Ultimate Polish.

The issue I am still left with is fine scratches at the end of the wax step. The polish removes some scratches but I think I'm re-introducing scratches somehow during the wax or as I'm wiping polish/wax off. I may need better microfiber towels. The scratches are not bad, just noticeable in the light at certain angles and mildly annoying after all that work. Overall, I am very happy with the end result and am becoming more efficient/experienced with the DA and pads. Thank you all for the great advice and education.
Old 04-01-18, 07:46 AM
  #35  
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Quality towels are a must. You should never use cheap towels when it comes to maintaining your paint. Check out The Rag Company, their Eagle Edgeless are great for detailing and seem to get softer the more you wash them. I bought a huge stack of them and use them like crazy.
Old 04-01-18, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by charley95
Quality towels are a must. You should never use cheap towels when it comes to maintaining your paint. Check out The Rag Company, their Eagle Edgeless are great for detailing and seem to get softer the more you wash them. I bought a huge stack of them and use them like crazy.
Thanks, charley95, I'll put in an order and see how much of a difference it makes. I thought I was getting decent microfiber towels from Costco and the Chemical Guys. Will try Rag Co next. Thanks again.
Old 04-01-18, 12:59 PM
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On a side note, I noticed some gray is coming off onto my microfiber towels. This happened on a few panels and my car is Nebula Gray. Is it because I'm using too aggressive of a pad or polish (M205). Only happened on two areas where I was rubbing hard to wipe off the polish residue because I allowed the polish to dry too much. Is this a technique problem or should I try a less aggressive pad next time?
Old 04-01-18, 01:47 PM
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I haven't read through all of this but it appeared your car was gray. If your getting grey on your towels then you or someone else has polished too aggressively and worn through the clear coat. You have a new can of worms to deal with now since the clear is worn through. I don't know about the Costco towels but it would seem that they would be more of a general purpose towel. I would use them in the engine compartment, wheel wells.... It's pretty tough to go wrong with the Eagle Edgeless towel and they are reasonably priced. Use these soft towels specifically for paint finish and NOTHING else. I think someone else needs to chime in here on their opinion since the clear coat is worn through.
Old 04-01-18, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by charley95
I haven't read through all of this but it appeared your car was gray. If your getting grey on your towels then you or someone else has polished too aggressively and worn through the clear coat. You have a new can of worms to deal with now since the clear is worn through. I don't know about the Costco towels but it would seem that they would be more of a general purpose towel. I would use them in the engine compartment, wheel wells.... It's pretty tough to go wrong with the Eagle Edgeless towel and they are reasonably priced. Use these soft towels specifically for paint finish and NOTHING else. I think someone else needs to chime in here on their opinion since the clear coat is worn through.
Uh-oh, that doesn't sound good. I used the green Chemical Guys pad with M205. I must have rubbed too hard with the microfiber while removing residue. I did not notice any gray on new towels during the waxing step. I am hoping that maybe the gray on the towel was a previous stain that didn't wash out but I can't say for certain.

What are the implications for missing clear coat? Does this mean patches of paint will begin to flake off in the near future? If I keep up a wax schedule, will that help?
Old 04-01-18, 02:08 PM
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Should I always be polishing the entire car before I wax? Or is polishing meant to just get rid of scratches? For most of the car, can I just wash, clay bar, and then wax?
Old 04-01-18, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by charley95
Quality towels are a must. You should never use cheap towels when it comes to maintaining your paint. Check out The Rag Company, their Eagle Edgeless are great for detailing and seem to get softer the more you wash them. I bought a huge stack of them and use them like crazy.
Do you recommend the Eagle Edgeless, the 500, or the 600?
Old 04-02-18, 04:35 AM
  #42  
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I'd get the 600. They weren't available when I got the 500, looks as if they'd be the softest.
Old 04-02-18, 11:04 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by FatherTo1
The issue I am still left with is fine scratches at the end of the wax step. The polish removes some scratches but I think I'm re-introducing scratches somehow during the wax or as I'm wiping polish/wax off. I may need better microfiber towels. The scratches are not bad, just noticeable in the light at certain angles and mildly annoying after all that work.
Better quality towels will always help. The key is towel maintenance and storage. You'll want to make sure they are always kept clean and avoid picking up debris. Personally, my towels are in plastic storage containers when they're clean or they're in a bucket (with a lid) waiting to be washed when dirty. If any of my towels are sitting around, then it's a rag.

Originally Posted by FatherTo1
On a side note, I noticed some gray is coming off onto my microfiber towels. This happened on a few panels and my car is Nebula Gray. Is it because I'm using too aggressive of a pad or polish (M205). Only happened on two areas where I was rubbing hard to wipe off the polish residue because I allowed the polish to dry too much. Is this a technique problem or should I try a less aggressive pad next time?
The towels will start to become gray or darker as you wipe panels. It's from the fibers collecting polish residue. Fold the towel again until you have a clean surface and wipe the same panel. If it's clean, then you're fine.

Originally Posted by FatherTo1
Uh-oh, that doesn't sound good. I used the green Chemical Guys pad with M205. I must have rubbed too hard with the microfiber while removing residue. I did not notice any gray on new towels during the waxing step. I am hoping that maybe the gray on the towel was a previous stain that didn't wash out but I can't say for certain.

What are the implications for missing clear coat? Does this mean patches of paint will begin to flake off in the near future? If I keep up a wax schedule, will that help?
Did you notice gray that was similar to your car's paint color on the pads? That would be the biggest indicator that the clearcoat is gone.

Originally Posted by FatherTo1
Should I always be polishing the entire car before I wax? Or is polishing meant to just get rid of scratches? For most of the car, can I just wash, clay bar, and then wax?
Wash, clay, wax is still better than doing nothing.

A polish is meant to get rid of swirls and prep the surface for protection. The best bond is with a freshly polished surface that has had an IPA wipe down or some similar prep product (carpro eraser). Before switching to coatings, I would polish my cars once a year, then do wash, clay, wax (or seal) anytime I felt it was necessary. Now, I either coat the cars or spray them with hydro2 with no prep at all.
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Old 04-02-18, 11:08 AM
  #44  
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If you were actually getting grey paint on your pads and towels you'd know if it was clear coat failure, the paint would look like hell.

Its likely just imbedded dirt in the paint being released into the pad.
Old 04-02-18, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Blkexcoupe
Better quality towels will always help. The key is towel maintenance and storage. You'll want to make sure they are always kept clean and avoid picking up debris. Personally, my towels are in plastic storage containers when they're clean or they're in a bucket (with a lid) waiting to be washed when dirty. If any of my towels are sitting around, then it's a rag.

The towels will start to become gray or darker as you wipe panels. It's from the fibers collecting polish residue. Fold the towel again until you have a clean surface and wipe the same panel. If it's clean, then you're fine.

Did you notice gray that was similar to your car's paint color on the pads? That would be the biggest indicator that the clearcoat is gone.

Wash, clay, wax is still better than doing nothing.

A polish is meant to get rid of swirls and prep the surface for protection. The best bond is with a freshly polished surface that has had an IPA wipe down or some similar prep product (carpro eraser). Before switching to coatings, I would polish my cars once a year, then do wash, clay, wax (or seal) anytime I felt it was necessary. Now, I either coat the cars or spray them with hydro2 with no prep at all.
Originally Posted by SW17LS
If you were actually getting grey paint on your pads and towels you'd know if it was clear coat failure, the paint would look like hell.

Its likely just imbedded dirt in the paint being released into the pad.
Thanks, Blkexcoupe and SW17LS. I did not see any metallic gray or any paint color on the pad itself, just a thumbprint-size on the microfiber towel (and it was a lighter gray than what is on my car). I was concerned about it at first because I figured the clay bar should have removed a lot of the contaminants, so why was I getting this gray dirt on my towel?? I did notice though that this time around the surface wasn't as slick after clay barring compared to last October. If I did grind away all of the clearcoat then I am amazed how good the car looks at the moment, lol. The paint is so flat, even, and shiny.

Thank you both for putting my mind at ease. I will exercise more caution next time though and be more aware of the potential risks. I did not press hard with the DA buffer and just sort of used the DA's own weight. When wiping off the residue I applied some pressure but not as though my body weight was into it. So far the paint looks beautiful and I plan to try hydro2 next time...just nervous about not rinsing quick enough and leaving streaks behind. Maybe I will practice on my wife's car first.

Oh, forgot to mention, I do keep the clean microfiber towels in a plastic bag. The Rag Company is currently out of Eagle Edgeless 600 and I plan to order some once it becomes available again.


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