nathantse

Hey guys,

My car is due for a full decontaminated and re-wax, and I want to try out some new products. I've had the car for about 2 years now, and I had never really decontaminated the car to the fullest. Clayed it once, and really just used Meg's UQW after each wash.

I've read on forums that CarPro IronX is the first step to decontamination
My question is... is it better to use Iron X BEFORE wash or AFTER wash? And if over spray lands on glass/plastic trim/chrome parts.. is it OK?

For sealant/wax, I am looking to purchase this. Anyone have experience with Meg's ULW
If someone has any step by step protocols to take for denomination and re-wax, please advise me.

zmcgovern4

iTrader: (2)

I've shared my thoughts above in blue caps.

These articles may also be informational:
Explaining the Decontamination Process Pt 1
Explaining the Decontamination Process Pt 2

nathantse

Thanks Zach,

Regarding the Iron X, it is OK if overspray gets on glass/plastic trim/etc as long as I thoroughly rinse off?

Also, for proper hand waxing, I've seen videos of ppl using circular motions (I understand that this will give even and overlapping coatings), but wouldn't this run the risk of installing swirls, IF dirt/etc gets into the pad/surface?

Would you recommend going circular motions or back/forth/up/down motions when hand waxing?

SeanO

iTrader: (1)

You might have partly answered my questoin Zach..

I do weekly maintenance washes with a spray wax final detail/ dry

I do monthly wax applications using Auto Glym HD Wax (I love this stuff btw) (thinking about getting a coating but I will definitely need some paint correction - $$$)

Before I do my monthly coat of wax.. Do I need to clay bar the entire vehicle again?? Or just looking it over with a fine tooth comb for any tar spots etc. good enough and then spot cleaning them?

For question above - I've heard of people using wax with circular motions (sometimes instructions tell you to) and some people prefer linear motions

I personally use linear motions (straight lines up and down) and its worked well for me.. I'm not sure there is a "right" way to do it.. I know that people tend to shy away from circular motions for the reasons you mentioned..

You just need to really make sure that your paint is clean when you wax it.. even as your car sits after you dry it - I always blow a stream of air over the paint to clear off any dust/ sediment that has settled in that short time before applying the wax

nathantse

I might want to give some insight with claying. The question you should ask yourself, DO you need claying? Claying is an abrasive, and too much can be bad for the paint. As you say you do a monthly wax, you do NOT need to clay every month.

Here's a video from AMMO NYC, this guy does a pretty good explanation of when to clay
And thanks for your input with hand waxing, I think I will stick with linear motions, just to be safe.

k20trick

iTrader: (3)

You should not need to clay every month if so, then your probably parking your car at wrong. I usually avoid sprinklers, trees (shade isn't worth perm damage from trees), avoid parking near body shops where overspray could land onto your car.

With my car sealed, I could probably go a long time and usually the wash process removes all the significant road tar on the car without the need for harsh chemicals. And after a year of dd'ing only the rear end of the car needed attention probably due to the exhaust. and other minor stubburn spot removals.

nathantse

I just placed my order for the Iron X and Meg's Ultimate Liquid Wax.

When using Iron X, does it also strip existing wax? Or should I go ahead and use diluted OPC to strip?

bwsteg

Whats the worse that can happen if after an iron x treatment, the car is not rinsed well and some of the iron x remains in certain hard to see/reach spots?

nathantse

I was actually reading up on this. I think the best way to prevent this is spray ONLY on spots deemed necessary with iron particles. Also, rewash or wash the vechcile again if you haven't already. This is my game plan:

1: Foam
2. Rinse
3. Dry (with compressed air)
4. Spray Iron X (On spots that NEEDS it, I have a white car so its easier to spot)
5. Dwell 5 mins
6. Rinse
7. Foam AGAIN
8. Hand wash
9. Dry again
10. Clay, if needed
11. Wax/Seal

Seems tedious, but I think this is the best way to make sure Iron X is completely off the car, as well as using it for its effective purpose. Any pro detailer, please correct my steps if there is any.

Zach mentioned that you can spray Iron X on a dry car (if not too dirty) before a wash. But, I read that its better on a clean/dry car. But up to you.

zmcgovern4

iTrader: (2)

Yes - IronX will not damage anything on the exterior of the car if it is not hot, not allowed to dry, and rinsed thoroughly. You can get it on paint, wheels, glass, plastic, rubber..... no problem. Spray away.

Wax in straight line motions using very little pressure. The application of wax has been a mystery to many vehicle owners for all of time... all you need to do is spread the product onto the paint. Making small circles with pressure (ie "buffing") does nothing when using a pure wax or sealant. Don't trust Mr. Miyagi for everything



No, there should be no reason to decontaminate your paint that frequently unless the vehicle is subjected to a lot of contaminants on a daily basis (ie parking under a tree that leaves sap on it, working near a body shop or factory where overspray or fallout is heavy, etc). I typically recommend claying just once or twice a year for the average DD. There is no need to clay before applying wax if the car is not heavily contaminated. Just wash, dry, wax.

This is another common misconception. Clay itself is not an abrasive substance. Claying can cause marring when contaminants are lifted, stuck in the clay, and then continuously rubbed against the paint. The contaminants within the clay then act as an abrasive. This is why it is very important to constantly knead the clay so you're using clean clay on your paint, and discard the clay when it is dirty. It is a cheap, disposable product. Theoretically you can clay a clean car every day and not cause any harm if you're using it properly with plenty of lubrication.

The only way to ensure a layer of wax or sealant is completely removed is to use an abrasive like a polish... this is not feasible or recommended prior to reapplying wax regularly, simply perform a thorough car wash and then reapply your wax. Decontaminate as needed prior to waxing (once or twice a year will generally suffice).

You can get some staining coming out of jams, door handles, or wherever the chemical was hiding as it starts to leak out.

Tedious, yes... and completely unnecessary IMO as someone who used IronX in a professional environment for years. We experimented with the product on wet cars, dry dirty cars, dry clean cars... there is no major performance improvement in one case over the other for the most part. CarPro does recommend using it on a clean dry car for the best results, but I do not feel it is worth the added effort to wash, dry, iron x, wash, dry compared to either wash, iron x, rinse, dry or iron x, rinse, wash, dry. Experiment on your own and see what works best for you.

nathantse

Thanks Zach for the information.

Took me a good 4 hours to complete this project.. Wash, Dry, IronX, Wash, Dry, Clay, Waxed, Windows.

Just curious what results other white car owners have... The paint is forsure slicker and much softer, but the "gloss" and "reflection" is only a tad better than before.

(I still see my reflection, but its not nearly as good as a freshly waxed black car)

tea

have you thought about ceramic coating? I've had it on my 3IS for over 3 years now and i just recently started seeing it not bead off water as well as it used to. I've been meaning to do a complete detail on my car but it's been so hot lately in socal.

nathantse

I've thought about it, but its pricey to get it done professionally. I would do it myself, but it takes a lot of prep work, and I have zero experience with it. Afraid I might just screw it up, waxing on the other hand is sorta foolproof lol.

I've read that Meg's Ultimate Liquid Wax can last up to 6-9 months (This the stuff I just put on today). It does gives a good shine, and hopefully repels some dirt/etc. But, I do like that ceramic coating acts like another clear coat, which can take some minor damage.

tea

yea the prep work can be labor intensive, but i'd say you did more than half the work already with your decontamination process. You just need to do paint correction, or not if you prefer not to, and apply the coating itself.

I don't believe the liquid wax will last you anywhere close to 9 months, maybe under ideal circumstances? sitting in your garage and driven only on nice days?

I'm waiting for it to cool down significantly to work on my car. this heat is making me very lazy

nathantse

The durability is just a speculation, this product isn't actually a wax, more a sealant. (They tend to last longer than traditional waxes, 9 months? Probably not. But we shall see lol). I actually don't mind reapplying every now and then, I like working on my car. I used Spray Wax during regular washes to prolong the life of the product.