So this year im trying to step outside the box and start detailing my car. I always wash, clay, and wax then let the professionals do the polishing but i'm trying to venture out and maybe start polishing some swirls out? Can anyone shed some advice on the polishing swirls? I don't want to go into heavy duty equipment, but i want a nice job done, on a budget. Thanks in advance!

 

First, lets very quickly cover the basic steps of a complete paint correction detail.

• Wash Wheels and Tires
  
  
• Wash Car (using 2 bucket method - CLICK HERE FOR MORE INFORMATION!)
  
• Dry with quality Waffle Weave Microfiber (MF) Towels
  
• Decontaminate - using clay bar + lube (and iron remover like IronX, if desired)
  
  
• Inspect Paint with proper lighting to identify scratches/swirls/other defects.
  
  
• Mask off Plastic Trim, Emblems, and anything that may be damaged by the buffer/pads/products.
  
  
• PERFORM A TEST SPOT - this is done to determine the best (LEAST AGGRESSIVE)process to correct your paint. We can cover this in more detail later, if needed.
  
  ^Test Spot Before
  
  ^Test Spot After
  
• Carry out your plan of action (that you developed during your test) to correct your paint on the entire vehicle.
  
• Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) wipe down if needed (products like CarPro Eraser are other alternatives)
  
• Apply Glaze *optional* (by hand or machine)
  
• Apply Sealant (by hand or machine)
  
  
• Apply Wax *optional* (by hand or machine)
• Finishing touches: Tire Dressing, Polish Exhaust Tips, Etc Etc.
  

*Note, these are just general steps... hopefully I did not leave anything out.

With the machines available now, everyone is capable of completely correcting their paint in a safe and effective manner. Dual Action or Random Orbital buffers are the go-to tool now for paint correction (compounding/polishing). Due to the way these machines rotate and oscillate, the pad does not stay in the same spot like a rotary machine will. This allows heat to dissipate, leaving a cooler working surface, and basically eliminating the chances of burning through your paint (note: this is not to say that it is 100% safe all of the time, every time. Caution must be used at all time when machine polishing.)

DA machines are becoming quite affordable, with the "basic" models starting around $100-$150 dollars. These machines are perfect for DIYers who only plan to work on their own vehicles and are not looking for professional equipment. If you have the budget, however, professional equipment will allow you to complete the work in a more efficient manner.

Some examples of popular DA polishers are:

• Porter Cable 7424XP (typically ~$125)
• Griot's Garage (3rd Gen) (typically ~$125, but more powerful than the PC7424)
• Flex 3401 (Typically ~$350, but much more powerful and effective - this is considered a professional machine)
• Rupes Machines (~$350-$400, these are the new favorite sweeping the detailing world and are regarded as professional equipment)

All of the machines mentioned above include backing plates (the piece that you place the buffing pad on to) except the porter cable, which you would have to purchase one for. I prefer 5" backing plates and 5.5" pads for the majority of my work as I feel they provide a large enough area, but still allow plenty of control. I also have 4" and 3" pads for tighter areas.

Some information about pads: (note: these are foam pads by lake country. there are also microfiber pads that are quite common from brands like Meguiar's, Uber, and Surbuf (though this one is technically not MF))

• Yellow Cutting Pad
• Orange Light Cutting Pad
• White Polishing Pad
• Black Finishing Pad
• Blue Fine Finishing Pad

Now there is much more to paint correction than choosing your machine and pad... in fact the machine is one of the least crucial steps in this process. The pad + product combination is what ultimately touches your paint and will either make your life much harder or much easier depending on your choices. Understanding the best pad + product combinations comes from practice, patience, and research.

Here are some common compounds and polishes along with "typical" pad choices.

• Meguiar's M105 - A heavy cutting compound typically paired with a cutting pad (can also be used with polish pad as this finishes down very well for a compound, however many people find this product to be difficult to work with since it dries quickly and can be difficult to wipe off) (SMAT)
• Menzerna FG400 - A medium cutting compound, typically paired with a cutting pad (can also be used with polish pad as this finishes down very well for a compound) (DAT)
• Menzerna PF2500 - A great polish that is effective for swirl removal and finishes down very nicely. Typically paired with a polishing pad. (DAT)
• Meguiar's M205 - A very popular polish that does very well at swirl removal and also finishes down very nicely - also commonly paired with a polishing pad. (SMAT)
• Menzerna SF4500 (PO85RD) - A Very fine finishing polish commonly used with a black finishing pad (DAT)

^You will notice the SMAT or DAT that I have put after each product - this denotes the technology that each product is using. SMAT = Super Micro Abrasive Technology while DAT = Diminishing Abrasive Technology. MORE INFORMATION ABOUT THESE HERE

**Many online retailers have PACKAGES that include polishing machines, pads, and products. These are typically a great way to get started.

Please understand that there are MANY, MANY, MANY more compounds and polishes out there besides what I listed above, many of which are also great products. The list is just a few of the more common ones that I have seen lately. Also, the pad choices for each product are a VERY GENERAL idea and are not to be taken as a fool proof combo. Many factors play into your product and pad combination, for example, every manufacturer has a different hardness to the clear coat they apply to their vehicles.

Lexus is known for having pretty soft paint, so less aggressive products tend to yield different results on softer paint compared to a average or harder clear coat. IE - you may find that a polish like M205 with a black finishing pad is able to remove all of your swirls.



I realize this is becoming a novel, so I will stop here, and allow you to ask any questions before I continue... Hopefully this was not overkill and I don't scare you away from learning proper paint correction.

It truly isn't rocket science, in fact it is quite easy ,but it takes preparation and practice which is what I am trying to help you with!

 

I also believe you should consider a DA polisher. I'd suggest looking for Meguiar's MF starter pad kit which includes D300 and D301 polishes. Meguiar's #105 and #205 are also top rated polishes.

Check with our supporting vendors here as they offer a discount and have developed packages of items that you need to get started.

DA's are very safe to use and unless you drop the tool on the hood should not cause you any concern.

For what you probably pay a professional to detail your car you can buy the tools to do it yourself many times over.

 

very nice writeup