Question About Polishing
#1
Question About Polishing
Hey I just polished my car this past weekend, but I ran into a bit of a snafu and was wondering if anyone had any tips or tricks I could use to expedite the process.
I washed and clayed the car, then used a dual action buffer to apply meguiars ultimate compound, it went onto the car okay, but taking it off took forever. I was using a microfiber to remove the excess polish. It came off an looked great, but it took a lot of rubbing to get the excess off. Was I doing that right? Or is there a better way to remove the excess? I had planned to follow it up with a medium cut, and then a light polish, and glaze, but after I finished with the Ultimate Compound I was beat. And I'm only polishing a little coupe.
Is there a better way to remove excess polish than rubbing at it with a microfiber? Are there certain things I should do before polishing to make removal of the excess easier?
I washed and clayed the car, then used a dual action buffer to apply meguiars ultimate compound, it went onto the car okay, but taking it off took forever. I was using a microfiber to remove the excess polish. It came off an looked great, but it took a lot of rubbing to get the excess off. Was I doing that right? Or is there a better way to remove the excess? I had planned to follow it up with a medium cut, and then a light polish, and glaze, but after I finished with the Ultimate Compound I was beat. And I'm only polishing a little coupe.
Is there a better way to remove excess polish than rubbing at it with a microfiber? Are there certain things I should do before polishing to make removal of the excess easier?
#2
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (17)
Rule number one... polish until the compound/polish goes clear. You need to completely break down the polish, it will make cleanup a breeze.
I always use IPA at around 20-25% with a MF towel after a section pass to inspect the results, it also makes quick work of removing leftover polish.
BUT definitely work the polish longer, not to the point where it starts dusting, but just before that, if that makes sense.
I always use IPA at around 20-25% with a MF towel after a section pass to inspect the results, it also makes quick work of removing leftover polish.
BUT definitely work the polish longer, not to the point where it starts dusting, but just before that, if that makes sense.
#3
Rule number one... polish until the compound/polish goes clear. You need to completely break down the polish, it will make cleanup a breeze.
I always use IPA at around 20-25% with a MF towel after a section pass to inspect the results, it also makes quick work of removing leftover polish.
BUT definitely work the polish longer, not to the point where it starts dusting, but just before that, if that makes sense.
I always use IPA at around 20-25% with a MF towel after a section pass to inspect the results, it also makes quick work of removing leftover polish.
BUT definitely work the polish longer, not to the point where it starts dusting, but just before that, if that makes sense.
#5
Hopefully, your improved technique helps you out, but remember "like removes like". If you have an area of Ultimate Compound that doesn't come right off, briefly go over it again with the buffer and a bit of Ultimate Compound and then immediately wipe off the residue with your microfiber. Like removes like. However, your improved technique will prevent your problem.
#6
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (17)
If you are using a rotary remember the Zenith Point technique. Start out slow and work your speed up to around 1250-1500 and finish out on a lower speed around 900-1000 if your buffer gets that low.
If you're using a PC or another DA keep the passes real slow and keep the pressure on the buffer to get any correction out of it. Nothing worse than doing passes with a DA with not enough pressure and going too quickly on the arm speed just to finish and see the swirls still there.
As far as using too much product, definitely great point that was brought up and I am sure most people make this mistake, especially the beginners. Basically, what I do, is get a new pad put an "X" shape on the pad and rub it into the pad so to prime it. After that, I just put a tiny dot of polish on the center of the pad. Not only will you not be wasting product, but you won't over-saturate the pad that quickly and won't have a huge mess to clean up after every pass.
Remember after every few panels (I do it around every 2-3 panels for corrections) check your pads to see that they don't have too much polish embedded in it. I usually just pick up a new pad or wash out the old one or sometimes even use a toothbrush to "clean it on the fly". That keeps the pads in good working order.
If you're using a PC or another DA keep the passes real slow and keep the pressure on the buffer to get any correction out of it. Nothing worse than doing passes with a DA with not enough pressure and going too quickly on the arm speed just to finish and see the swirls still there.
As far as using too much product, definitely great point that was brought up and I am sure most people make this mistake, especially the beginners. Basically, what I do, is get a new pad put an "X" shape on the pad and rub it into the pad so to prime it. After that, I just put a tiny dot of polish on the center of the pad. Not only will you not be wasting product, but you won't over-saturate the pad that quickly and won't have a huge mess to clean up after every pass.
Remember after every few panels (I do it around every 2-3 panels for corrections) check your pads to see that they don't have too much polish embedded in it. I usually just pick up a new pad or wash out the old one or sometimes even use a toothbrush to "clean it on the fly". That keeps the pads in good working order.
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