Winter prep with the Klasse Twins
11-03-11, 01:51 PM
#1
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Winter prep with the Klasse Twins
Just did my winter prep this past weekend.
washed with OPC, dawn, and megs gc
clayed with Griots and ONR lube
iron x'ed
kaio with GG6
ksg 3 coats over 2 days
here is the car after dwell time and agitation of the iron x. This stuff smells to high heaven but it dissolves iron embeded in the clearcoat (lexi typically have more since our clear is on the softer side). Those puddles of purple on the ground is the iron x reacting with iron to dissolve it. This looks awesome on a white car but mine is black so I have to trust that it's working.
even after thoroughly washing with OPC, dawn, and car soap, claying, then iron x, the chemical cleaners in KAIO were still able to take even more crap out of the paint. This is the white polishing pad I used to apply the KAIO:
You have to work the KAIO a bit heavy, not buff too long, and wipe it off before it dries or it will be hard to remove. I had to use my ONR lube a couple times to get the residue off.
The paint was smooth like glass afterwards and I was hesitant to put on the ksg b/c of all the horror stories I've read about getting it off. One of my buddies said he was actually bending the metal on his hood b/c he was using so much pressure trying to take it off.
I had decided on a method but then a couple weekends before I helped another buddy put opticoat on his jeep. That experience gave me a feel for putting on a whisper thin coating such that you can see the liquid left behind drying as you pass over an area (called flashing). If you still see a residue there, then you keep working it until it flashes as well.
Being a black car, I could see this happening very easily with the lighting in the garage. I basically spritzed the foam pad a couple times, scrunched it to distribute the product, then started applying it.
This is the spritz bottle I used for the KSG and the applicator pad after I was done with the first coat. To me that is a sign of a thorough cleaning!
Anyways, there was hardly anything to wipe off afterwards but you could definitely feel the slickness in the paint as the stuff set up. I pulled it out into the sun and found some areas around the door handles where I put the ksg on a bit thick. Next time, I'll save these areas for the end of an application cycle i.e. once you spritz the pad, it will be laying down the most product so start in a large area so you can knock down high areas easier.
The next morning, I did a wipedown with a non-carnauba based QD and went at it again. Used even less ksg than before and you could definitely feel the difference in the paint. I don't think it would have mattered how thin or thick I put it on this time because the surface was pretty much sealed by the first coating.
Only took a couple photo's as everyone already knows what a shiney 2IS looks like:
It's been a almost a week of daily driving to work and the car appears much cleaner to me. I think dust is not really sticking to it as much. Can't wait to see how it fares after some rain.
Thanks for reading!
washed with OPC, dawn, and megs gc
clayed with Griots and ONR lube
iron x'ed
kaio with GG6
ksg 3 coats over 2 days
here is the car after dwell time and agitation of the iron x. This stuff smells to high heaven but it dissolves iron embeded in the clearcoat (lexi typically have more since our clear is on the softer side). Those puddles of purple on the ground is the iron x reacting with iron to dissolve it. This looks awesome on a white car but mine is black so I have to trust that it's working.
even after thoroughly washing with OPC, dawn, and car soap, claying, then iron x, the chemical cleaners in KAIO were still able to take even more crap out of the paint. This is the white polishing pad I used to apply the KAIO:
You have to work the KAIO a bit heavy, not buff too long, and wipe it off before it dries or it will be hard to remove. I had to use my ONR lube a couple times to get the residue off.
The paint was smooth like glass afterwards and I was hesitant to put on the ksg b/c of all the horror stories I've read about getting it off. One of my buddies said he was actually bending the metal on his hood b/c he was using so much pressure trying to take it off.
I had decided on a method but then a couple weekends before I helped another buddy put opticoat on his jeep. That experience gave me a feel for putting on a whisper thin coating such that you can see the liquid left behind drying as you pass over an area (called flashing). If you still see a residue there, then you keep working it until it flashes as well.
Being a black car, I could see this happening very easily with the lighting in the garage. I basically spritzed the foam pad a couple times, scrunched it to distribute the product, then started applying it.
This is the spritz bottle I used for the KSG and the applicator pad after I was done with the first coat. To me that is a sign of a thorough cleaning!
Anyways, there was hardly anything to wipe off afterwards but you could definitely feel the slickness in the paint as the stuff set up. I pulled it out into the sun and found some areas around the door handles where I put the ksg on a bit thick. Next time, I'll save these areas for the end of an application cycle i.e. once you spritz the pad, it will be laying down the most product so start in a large area so you can knock down high areas easier.
The next morning, I did a wipedown with a non-carnauba based QD and went at it again. Used even less ksg than before and you could definitely feel the difference in the paint. I don't think it would have mattered how thin or thick I put it on this time because the surface was pretty much sealed by the first coating.
Only took a couple photo's as everyone already knows what a shiney 2IS looks like:
It's been a almost a week of daily driving to work and the car appears much cleaner to me. I think dust is not really sticking to it as much. Can't wait to see how it fares after some rain.
Thanks for reading!
Last edited by embolism; 02-22-13 at 10:46 AM. Reason: relink pics
11-03-11, 08:55 PM
#3
Nice job! Its nice to read about winter prep since SoCal doesn't generally have one. Always wanted to play with the Klasse twins but I've always been a carnauba guy. As my CQuartz is finally dying, this might be a nice base layer for my cars. How does it play with carnauba on top?
11-09-11, 10:32 AM
#6
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Nice job! Its nice to read about winter prep since SoCal doesn't generally have one. Always wanted to play with the Klasse twins but I've always been a carnauba guy. As my CQuartz is finally dying, this might be a nice base layer for my cars. How does it play with carnauba on top?
there should be no issue topping with a carnuba. AG used to bundle the twins with souveran calling it the forum favourite kit...
11-09-11, 09:55 PM
#7
With the original formula, it was an excellent beader until a few weeks after. Then it sheeted like no other. At this point and time, the sheeting is pretty much dying rather quickly. Considering it sits outside 24/7 in the SoCal sun, I'm surprised it lasted this long. I think its been about a year and a half since application. Maybe even longer
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