Isn't waxing a Pain
01-31-09, 02:38 PM
#1
Rookie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: New York
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Isn't waxing a Pain
Hi i waxed my car last summer it looks great but there were some cons. First i realized that the wax got left in the hard to reach places like the emblems on the trunk inside the cracks, in the cracks on the chrome molding, the cracks in the windows, as you can see every hard to reach place there is still a little wax left. I was wondering how to get this off. Second the emblems on the trunk got tarnished from the wax. Has this happened to anybody or am i just not waxing properly. And finally how do you get off the old wax because as soon as it gets warm i am going to wash and wax again.
01-31-09, 06:57 PM
#5
Not at all, thought that could be due to the fact that I use detailing as a relaxing therapy 
I actually like applying by hand, like real hand. I have a tub of special edition Rubbishboys OE that pretty much needs to be applied by hand in the first place
Here is for you by-hand people. Zymol paste waxes work well by this. RBOE works excellent by this. Try it out, I personally think it looks much better than applying with an applicator
I actually like applying by hand, like real hand. I have a tub of special edition Rubbishboys OE that pretty much needs to be applied by hand in the first place
Here is for you by-hand people. Zymol paste waxes work well by this. RBOE works excellent by this. Try it out, I personally think it looks much better than applying with an applicator
Apply using your hands.
Make sure you remove all metal work from your hands and wrists, rings, watches etc. Take a small quantity of wax from the pot and place it in the palm of your hand.
Massage the wax into the palm of your hand, to get the oils flowing, and then rub your hands together and make sure there is thin coating all over your hands.
Next massage the wax into your clean and freshly polished paintwork, make sure you cover all the areas, but also be very careful you spread it very thinly. Too much wax will be hard to buff off and may leave wax holograms.
Cover the whole area carefully, oh and did I mention, make sure you spread it very thinly.
Curing.
When the panel is completely covered, move onto the next, you need to leave the wax some time to cure and bond to the paint. Depending on the wax this usually takes between a couple and 15 minutes, read the instructions for the wax you are using. If the weather is particlurly hot or you are in direct sunlight, you may need to buff off sooner.
Removing the wax.
Using a deeper pile microfibre cloth, wipe the excess wax off. If you have applied a nice thin layer and the wax is ready to be removed, it will come off in one or two wipes. If it is taking several wipes then you may have applied too much product or not left it long enough.
Once all the excess wax has been removed turn your cloth over and buff the paintwork to a high gloss finish.
Make sure you remove all metal work from your hands and wrists, rings, watches etc. Take a small quantity of wax from the pot and place it in the palm of your hand.
Massage the wax into the palm of your hand, to get the oils flowing, and then rub your hands together and make sure there is thin coating all over your hands.
Next massage the wax into your clean and freshly polished paintwork, make sure you cover all the areas, but also be very careful you spread it very thinly. Too much wax will be hard to buff off and may leave wax holograms.
Cover the whole area carefully, oh and did I mention, make sure you spread it very thinly.
Curing.
When the panel is completely covered, move onto the next, you need to leave the wax some time to cure and bond to the paint. Depending on the wax this usually takes between a couple and 15 minutes, read the instructions for the wax you are using. If the weather is particlurly hot or you are in direct sunlight, you may need to buff off sooner.
Removing the wax.
Using a deeper pile microfibre cloth, wipe the excess wax off. If you have applied a nice thin layer and the wax is ready to be removed, it will come off in one or two wipes. If it is taking several wipes then you may have applied too much product or not left it long enough.
Once all the excess wax has been removed turn your cloth over and buff the paintwork to a high gloss finish.
Trending Topics
01-31-09, 08:17 PM
#8
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Arizona
Posts: 2,673
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The optimum thing is to not get it in there in the first place, Zag. I use blue painter's tape when detailing my cars (and when I was a pro, same deal). It leaves no residue and, most importantly, doesn't allow the goo to get where it doesn't belong. Tape the fenders when doing the hood and vice versa. Proceed as needed around the vehicle. Sure, it takes a bit of time, but it sure beats having the results you are - and eliminates the need to scrape and possibly mar the paint. Given today's multiple layer finishes (Lexus uses a 3-stage paint), it's very easy to damage it. When I was doing Ferrari's, Porsche's, and Bentley's, the customers would certainly have not expected any less.
To answer your question: use a fine detailer's brush, available at most specialty automotive places. These usually have very fine hairs and will not scratch the paint. Should cost you about $15 for a set of 3. Then work it around the emblems, chrome, and cracks. To get it off of cracks that are in between panels like hood/fenders, I would open the hood, dampen a micro fiber towel with some detailing spray, and wipe it gently off. Other panels that aren't movable, take the MF towel, again damp with detailing spray, and wipe carefully between them. If you have a small body filler spreader, these can work wonders when pushed between panels (gently!) and covered with the towel.
Voila...problem solved!
Big Mack
To answer your question: use a fine detailer's brush, available at most specialty automotive places. These usually have very fine hairs and will not scratch the paint. Should cost you about $15 for a set of 3. Then work it around the emblems, chrome, and cracks. To get it off of cracks that are in between panels like hood/fenders, I would open the hood, dampen a micro fiber towel with some detailing spray, and wipe it gently off. Other panels that aren't movable, take the MF towel, again damp with detailing spray, and wipe carefully between them. If you have a small body filler spreader, these can work wonders when pushed between panels (gently!) and covered with the towel.
Voila...problem solved!
Big Mack
01-31-09, 08:29 PM
#10
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Diamond Bar/Irvine, CA
Posts: 1,602
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
2 Posts
detailing isn't a pain at all if you have a passion for cleaning your vehicle looking prestine.
You can remove wax by using a dial dishwash soap instead of your normal carwash. Or if you are really **** about it you can use a pre-wax cleaner like Menzerna Final Polish II or Meguiar's No.9
You can remove wax by using a dial dishwash soap instead of your normal carwash. Or if you are really **** about it you can use a pre-wax cleaner like Menzerna Final Polish II or Meguiar's No.9
01-31-09, 08:35 PM
#11
Rookie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: New York
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So you only use the dishwashing soap to wash the entire car and then you use regular car washing wash right. Can you guys give me some products to use for waxing, washing the wheels and tires, polishing, and some interior products to use
02-01-09, 05:49 AM
#12
I use a product that doesn't leave waxy deposits in nooks and crannies and on plastic trim. Problem solved. NXT 2.0 is good and QuikWax is even better around emblems.
When I encounter this on client's cars I use a pink eraser and carve it to the shape and edge I want. I couple this with an eraser pencil which I also carve to an edge that can get in and remove old wax and dirt buildup. This is easy, effective and is also safe for paint and chrome as it doesn't scratch.
When I encounter this on client's cars I use a pink eraser and carve it to the shape and edge I want. I couple this with an eraser pencil which I also carve to an edge that can get in and remove old wax and dirt buildup. This is easy, effective and is also safe for paint and chrome as it doesn't scratch.
Last edited by jfelbab; 02-01-09 at 05:52 AM.
02-01-09, 08:34 AM
#14
I use this one: http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+G17516
It is available at my local Walmart as are the pink erasers, BTW.
It leaves no white residue on the paint or trim. It works well with NXT 2.0.
It is available at my local Walmart as are the pink erasers, BTW.
It leaves no white residue on the paint or trim. It works well with NXT 2.0.
