hey everyone, i just finished my 1jz swap using the 2jzge auto tranny, now i have a few problems.. one problem is that the car starts turning its self over when i hook up the battery, and another issue im having is the car doesnt accelerate very good and miss fires, i think the acceleration is because of the 2jzge auto tranny kick down cable, i have no idea how im supposed to hook it up, its to short to reach anything and i dont know if i even have ther ight bracket or right cable. any info would be greatly appreciated... thanks..

 

It sounds like your grounding the starter when you hook up the battery. I would check the starter wire. Im confused about your second problem. If the car is cranking itself over when you hook up the battery, how are you driving the car?

 

well, i hooked up a switch between the starter wire, sucks cause i have to pop the hood and start the car.. i cant think of anything that would make the car backfire when it starts to boost. and my car keeps popping the fuel injectors out.. really weird, when i get home today im going to rewire the knock sensors incase thats the problem.. hopefully... haha guess we'll see..

 

Also check for boost leaks if your car is backfiring when you hit boost.

 

I did the same thing.... i have a push button start now. Kinda a hassle, but i just need to figure out how to bypass the netural safety switch.

 

I've noticed most the people selling 1jz trannys are mating their 1jz blocks with their old stock 2jzge auto trans, is there a reason for this ?!? I thought the 1jz tranny had a slightly stronger power handling then the 2jzge trans....whats the reason for this ? You arent the first person ive seen do this

 

because people buy just the engine set

 

No im aware of that but lots of people buy the entire front clip and leave out swapping the trans....why....this is my question...

 

it feels good to know that im not the only one who has a push button start b/c of that starting issue when battery is plugged. goodluck to your project and hope you can figure out the problems and happy boosting=)

 

on that. Also are you running the correct MAF? Are you running an open or recirced BOV?

 

You mean MAP sensor.

 

This is true. And misfiring on a MAP sensor setup isnt going to be caused by boost leaks. What about the plugs? What are they gapped at? TPS calibrated correctly?

 

the reason im using my 2j tranny, is because i bought the engine from a friend who only had the motor, i had to get the turbos, DP, tranny, everything.. luckly i got everything for a good deal.. haha other wise i woulda just bought a front clip. anyway, my fuel injectors popped out..... and i figured out that im missing hte bar that holds those in.... spark plugs wernt tight ( he said he forgot to tighten them... guess i should checke though) that was the reason my car was missing so bad.. lol go figure.. anyway im working on making a custom fuel injector hold down right now but by chance can some one show me how the stock BOV vacuum hooks up, i cant find that info anywhere.. really sucks. but yeah thanks for everyones help, oh and where does the 5spd master cyl hook up in the engine bay? i dont see a place for one in my car, but im sure there is and im just over looking it, im hopefully doing my manual swap soon. but yeah thanks everyone for the help.

 

I had the same starting problem with my '95 SC300 5-speed after doing the swap. Here's what I did to fix the problem.

Find the 8-pin connector right next to the battery...you'll probably have to take the battery out. It will be mounted on the side of the black relay box. There will be two connectors here - the connector we want to splice in to, and another connector with 2 or 3 large wires. Leave that one alone.

On that 8-pin connector, find the black wire. This is the "signal" wire for the starter relay. What is happening is, for whatever reason, this wire is being supplied with 12 volts no matter if you're trying to start the car or not...and that's why the starter turns over the moment you put the battery on. Cut the black wire, leaving enough room on the CONNECTOR side to splice a wire in. Either crimp it or solder it - I'd recommend soldering - and run this wire through the firewall and down near the ECU.

Now you need to find the 1JZ "CF1" connector. It is one of the gray BODY connectors. A picture of it is here. You need to put a pin in position 8, this is the stock 5-speed starter relay activation pin. What I did was take a pin from my old 2JZ-GE harness, solder it onto my new starter wire, and push it in position 8 of the CF1 connector. Then my car started exactly as it did before the swap.

 

You are correct. Im just so use to troubleshooting turbo cars with mafs that the first thing i always look for is a boost leak .


ippyness: The master cylinder sits next to the brake booster in the engine bay.