Ohlins coilover
11-14-12, 06:28 AM
#16
[QUOTE=Allb18c;7597656]Did you happen to take more pics during the install? Perhaps a DIY?[/QUO
I didn't take more pics for a diy, because I was learning about it myself
. I looked at the parts breakdown on Sewell and then I went to work on it. I can tell you that it took me almost 3 hours to flip that spring around today. At the top of each shock there is a controller similar to EDFC /TEAS. 2 silver clips on each side have to be removed and then the controller pops right off for the front and rear. It was a bit easier than I thought but the longest time was spent wiggling those thread locked bolts out. My set up goes really low. On the rear you will have to remove the liner first. There will be 2 3/4'' bolts with 11 written on them and a small control arm. I used a spring compressor on one side and a floor jack below the spring to compress the spring to remove the lower bolt in the control arm then hand tighten the nut on the compressor while pressing up with the floor jack. I slowly let the jack down and removed the spring. I removed the 3 nuts on the bolts hold the rear shock in place and it drops out. Install in reverse. On the front I propped the brake rotor on a jack stand and remove the 2 bolts to the rear lower part of the heat shield and about 3 more bolts including a 10mm bolt holding a sensing line to get it out of the way. You have to remove the cover and disconnect the controller(it just snaps out) and them 3 mor nuts and it drops right out. Understand that I am a newb at this but I put my 2 cents in so I hope it was helpful. Now all I have to do is learn how to align. I only checked by looking at my tire tracks from a wet to dry surface.
I didn't take more pics for a diy, because I was learning about it myself
. I looked at the parts breakdown on Sewell and then I went to work on it. I can tell you that it took me almost 3 hours to flip that spring around today. At the top of each shock there is a controller similar to EDFC /TEAS. 2 silver clips on each side have to be removed and then the controller pops right off for the front and rear. It was a bit easier than I thought but the longest time was spent wiggling those thread locked bolts out. My set up goes really low. On the rear you will have to remove the liner first. There will be 2 3/4'' bolts with 11 written on them and a small control arm. I used a spring compressor on one side and a floor jack below the spring to compress the spring to remove the lower bolt in the control arm then hand tighten the nut on the compressor while pressing up with the floor jack. I slowly let the jack down and removed the spring. I removed the 3 nuts on the bolts hold the rear shock in place and it drops out. Install in reverse. On the front I propped the brake rotor on a jack stand and remove the 2 bolts to the rear lower part of the heat shield and about 3 more bolts including a 10mm bolt holding a sensing line to get it out of the way. You have to remove the cover and disconnect the controller(it just snaps out) and them 3 mor nuts and it drops right out. Understand that I am a newb at this but I put my 2 cents in so I hope it was helpful. Now all I have to do is learn how to align. I only checked by looking at my tire tracks from a wet to dry surface.
01-18-13, 12:02 PM
#19
Lead Lap
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They are not Swift coilovers. They are DG-5 and they come with Swift springs. Swift does not make coilovers. They were design by Keiichi Tsuchiya. if you have watched any D1 you will see most of the cars used them.
Last edited by DoriSaru15; 01-18-13 at 12:11 PM.
01-18-13, 12:09 PM
#20
They are not Swift coilovers. They are DG-5 and they come with Swift springs. Swift does not make coilovers. DG-5 is one of the best coilovers you can get in japan. They were design by Keiichi Tsuchiya. if you have watched any D1 you will see most of the cars used them. I for one have used it on my SC and i loved it.
01-22-13, 01:40 AM
#21
01-22-13, 02:16 AM
#22
01-22-13, 04:49 PM
#24
I do not have more pics as yet. I will take more pics after a few more mods.(quad exhaust tips +) I was low enough for the body to be flush with the top of the rim running 275-30 with a 40 offset(folded sides are needed for that drop) but I found that 38 offset may be the best for a rim to body tuck without too much VIP flare on the rear tires. I planned on fitting 38 offset on the rear, but I made some adjustments that solved things to my satisfaction. On mostly smooth roads with minor bumps there is no rub but on high uneven surfaces at high speeds the weight of the car comming down does cause a barely noticeable rub. I have adjusted for this by increasing the setting on the shocks(mostly rear adjustment) since the ones I have are 32 way adjustable (currently in the low 20's adjustment); I also increased the ride height to near the mid portion of the tire when looking at it flush on, and it has been smooth ever since. My daily drive roads are not always friendly to my lower stance but my ride is smooth on the somewhat forgiving surfaces and cruise control ready on the good stuff. IMO anyone who has anywhere near 275 will have a little rub if they lower within an inch body to rim without a tuck with at least 40 or higher if you ride a mean enough bump in the road. My suspension allows me to go low enough to appear to be on air sus but the roads in my area will not show me enough mercy to let me pull that off.
Thank you for the information. Very useful!
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