Lexus wants $1,000 to..
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
Lexus wants $1,000 to..
Replace both rear calipers. They are seized and the dealership wants 1 grand to replace them along with brake pads. I'm looking to do this myself on my 07 AWD. I will be purchasing new caliper and pads so I am hoping it won't be too difficult of a job? I just need to transfer the braking line over to the new caliper correct? Please help!
Thanks in advance!
p.s. Autozone sells Durlast calipers for our IS and the price seems pretty cheap so I'm questioning the quality.
By the way, are these the correct part number for the calipers and pads? #47850-53051, #47830-53051 for the caliper and #04466-53010 for pads
Thanks in advance!
p.s. Autozone sells Durlast calipers for our IS and the price seems pretty cheap so I'm questioning the quality.
By the way, are these the correct part number for the calipers and pads? #47850-53051, #47830-53051 for the caliper and #04466-53010 for pads
Last edited by jjc250; 04-01-16 at 08:23 AM.
#2
Lexus Champion
replacing calipers is fairly straight forward, block off the braking line so you don't drain fluid when you disconnect the line, couple of bolts to remove them from the car, replace and bleed out the brakes.
the only thing I do not know about on these cars is if you have to cycle the ABS pump, I know on Chrysler and GM cars if you are bleeding the brakes their tech tools have a procedure to cycle the ABS pump during the bleeding process.
edit: just found this:
the only thing I do not know about on these cars is if you have to cycle the ABS pump, I know on Chrysler and GM cars if you are bleeding the brakes their tech tools have a procedure to cycle the ABS pump during the bleeding process.
edit: just found this:
#3
Do some curls first..
Save your cheddar. I had the same thing with my rear calipers. I had to put some serious elbow grease into breaking them loose. Get some mechanics gloves and muscle the caliper back and forth repeatedly, need to use a mallet and beat the hell out of the upper part of the caliper until you can get some leverage. Double check to see if theres a safety recall ... im guessing since you were quoted 1g there isnt. Either way, pumping, for a lack of better terms, the caliper back and forth will eventually break it loose. Use that rubber mallet as you see fit to knock the caliper around. Once out and off clean the bottom pin with a wire brush, perhaps use sand paper to shave it down a hair. Thoroughly clean the 'female' receptacle with a pipe cleaner type of steel brush.
Mechanics gloves, grease, steel brushes, brake cleaner, pads. Thats it. YOu dont need to buy new calipers.
Mechanics gloves, grease, steel brushes, brake cleaner, pads. Thats it. YOu dont need to buy new calipers.
#4
Driver
Thread Starter
Save your cheddar. I had the same thing with my rear calipers. I had to put some serious elbow grease into breaking them loose. Get some mechanics gloves and muscle the caliper back and forth repeatedly, need to use a mallet and beat the hell out of the upper part of the caliper until you can get some leverage. Double check to see if theres a safety recall ... im guessing since you were quoted 1g there isnt. Either way, pumping, for a lack of better terms, the caliper back and forth will eventually break it loose. Use that rubber mallet as you see fit to knock the caliper around. Once out and off clean the bottom pin with a wire brush, perhaps use sand paper to shave it down a hair. Thoroughly clean the 'female' receptacle with a pipe cleaner type of steel brush.
Mechanics gloves, grease, steel brushes, brake cleaner, pads. Thats it. YOu dont need to buy new calipers.
Mechanics gloves, grease, steel brushes, brake cleaner, pads. Thats it. YOu dont need to buy new calipers.
#5
Yes, those calipers are seized to the car. The caliper has a bolt at the top and a pin at the bottom to glide on. The bottom pin is the thing that is seized, so it aint coming off the car until you make it. Remove the top bolt then grab a hold of the caliper and put your hip into it. The receptacle will be self explanatory but basically its what the bottom pin glides into.
#6
I just went through this same issue and purchased new calipers that had new caliper support brackets on them. So you get a new slide bolt, slide pin and caliper bracket with each caliper. Much easier than having to try and break that darned slide pin loose that's seized up.
You just remove the remove the brake line, remove the two bolts, pull the caliper off, put your new pads and hardware in, bolt the caliper back on, reattach the brake line and bleed the brakes.
Oh and yeah, those caliper PN's are correct. Looks like they are semi loaded's so they will come with the caliper bracket already attached:
* BECK/ARNLEY 0771928S {4783053051} Remanufactured Reman Remanufactured - Semi-Loaded Semi-Loaded - Rear Right; Single Piston Caliper
* BECK/ARNLEY 0771927S {4785053051} Remanufactured Reman Remanufactured - Semi-Loaded Semi-Loaded - Rear Left; Single Piston Caliper
And I didn't need to cycle the ABS pump when I bled my brakes. So far so good.
You just remove the remove the brake line, remove the two bolts, pull the caliper off, put your new pads and hardware in, bolt the caliper back on, reattach the brake line and bleed the brakes.
Oh and yeah, those caliper PN's are correct. Looks like they are semi loaded's so they will come with the caliper bracket already attached:
* BECK/ARNLEY 0771928S {4783053051} Remanufactured Reman Remanufactured - Semi-Loaded Semi-Loaded - Rear Right; Single Piston Caliper
* BECK/ARNLEY 0771927S {4785053051} Remanufactured Reman Remanufactured - Semi-Loaded Semi-Loaded - Rear Left; Single Piston Caliper
And I didn't need to cycle the ABS pump when I bled my brakes. So far so good.
Last edited by Soledad; 04-03-16 at 06:30 AM.
#7
Moderator
iTrader: (10)
You can make due without having to do a brake fluid flush if you don't want to; you just need to purchase some of these :
http://toolmonger.com/2009/01/13/dea...hose-pinchers/
Clamp onto the flexible caliper brake hose and then remove the line from the caliper. Attach the new one (with a NEW crush washer), and then release the brake line clamp. You should be fine; but you might need to bleed out the tad bit of air that built up between the end of the hose and that clamp when disconnected.
Good luck!
http://toolmonger.com/2009/01/13/dea...hose-pinchers/
Clamp onto the flexible caliper brake hose and then remove the line from the caliper. Attach the new one (with a NEW crush washer), and then release the brake line clamp. You should be fine; but you might need to bleed out the tad bit of air that built up between the end of the hose and that clamp when disconnected.
Good luck!
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#8
Driver
Thread Starter
Yes, those calipers are seized to the car. The caliper has a bolt at the top and a pin at the bottom to glide on. The bottom pin is the thing that is seized, so it aint coming off the car until you make it. Remove the top bolt then grab a hold of the caliper and put your hip into it. The receptacle will be self explanatory but basically its what the bottom pin glides into.
When I tried to screw back the bottom pin, it seems like there this little free to play on the pin itself. Since there's no tool specified for that pin, I can only tighten it by hand but it seems like it could be tighter. It was like this too when I was hammering the outer caliper. Although the pin is seized, I can wiggle it a little.
Does this sound normal?
#9
The bottom pin shouldn't turn if i remember correctly. I'm glad you got it out, Now clean the **** out of it and you'll be surprised how well it works and thank me yoU saved cheddar.
#10
Driver
Thread Starter
Yea I figured the bottom pin shouldn't turn or move unless it's being removed. New problem is I sanded it too smooth and with the grease I put on, it's very difficult to get a good grip of the pin and screw it back tight.
#12
Driver
Thread Starter
ps. the piston is pushed in all the way. Also when I pull the caliper towards me all the way, it moves back towards the opposite side a little, which is why the outer pad is touching the rotor.
#13
Yes this is normal. You don't want any space between the pads and rotor however you don't want friction on the install. Meaning, don't hammer the pad into place. It should go in freely. When you put it all back together and pull out for the first time, be ready to pump your brakes. They will not be as responsive the first time. You'll need to seat them against the rotors essentially.
#14
Driver
Thread Starter
Yes this is normal. You don't want any space between the pads and rotor however you don't want friction on the install. Meaning, don't hammer the pad into place. It should go in freely. When you put it all back together and pull out for the first time, be ready to pump your brakes. They will not be as responsive the first time. You'll need to seat them against the rotors essentially.
#15
No man, you shouldnt have to remove the master cylinder cap or put back your old pads. Something isnt right....kinked line maybe? You should be able to get the piston in far enough for new pads.