jjc250

Replace both rear calipers. They are seized and the dealership wants 1 grand to replace them along with brake pads. I'm looking to do this myself on my 07 AWD. I will be purchasing new caliper and pads so I am hoping it won't be too difficult of a job? I just need to transfer the braking line over to the new caliper correct? Please help!

Thanks in advance!

p.s. Autozone sells Durlast calipers for our IS and the price seems pretty cheap so I'm questioning the quality.
By the way, are these the correct part number for the calipers and pads? #47850-53051, #47830-53051 for the caliper and #04466-53010 for pads

mjeds

replacing calipers is fairly straight forward, block off the braking line so you don't drain fluid when you disconnect the line, couple of bolts to remove them from the car, replace and bleed out the brakes.


the only thing I do not know about on these cars is if you have to cycle the ABS pump, I know on Chrysler and GM cars if you are bleeding the brakes their tech tools have a procedure to cycle the ABS pump during the bleeding process.


edit: just found this:

drwafk

Save your cheddar. I had the same thing with my rear calipers. I had to put some serious elbow grease into breaking them loose. Get some mechanics gloves and muscle the caliper back and forth repeatedly, need to use a mallet and beat the hell out of the upper part of the caliper until you can get some leverage. Double check to see if theres a safety recall ... im guessing since you were quoted 1g there isnt. Either way, pumping, for a lack of better terms, the caliper back and forth will eventually break it loose. Use that rubber mallet as you see fit to knock the caliper around. Once out and off clean the bottom pin with a wire brush, perhaps use sand paper to shave it down a hair. Thoroughly clean the 'female' receptacle with a pipe cleaner type of steel brush.
Mechanics gloves, grease, steel brushes, brake cleaner, pads. Thats it. YOu dont need to buy new calipers.

jjc250

Thanks a lot for the suggestion. Glad I've so far only ordered new pads yet the calipers. And just to be sure, did you try to move the caliper back and forth with it on the car or did you have to remove it from the car first? Also what's this receptacle part you're referring to? I'll probably get it when I start working on it but thanks!

drwafk

Yes, those calipers are seized to the car. The caliper has a bolt at the top and a pin at the bottom to glide on. The bottom pin is the thing that is seized, so it aint coming off the car until you make it. Remove the top bolt then grab a hold of the caliper and put your hip into it. The receptacle will be self explanatory but basically its what the bottom pin glides into.

Soledad

I just went through this same issue and purchased new calipers that had new caliper support brackets on them. So you get a new slide bolt, slide pin and caliper bracket with each caliper. Much easier than having to try and break that darned slide pin loose that's seized up.

You just remove the remove the brake line, remove the two bolts, pull the caliper off, put your new pads and hardware in, bolt the caliper back on, reattach the brake line and bleed the brakes.

Oh and yeah, those caliper PN's are correct. Looks like they are semi loaded's so they will come with the caliper bracket already attached:

* BECK/ARNLEY 0771928S {4783053051} Remanufactured Reman Remanufactured - Semi-Loaded Semi-Loaded - Rear Right; Single Piston Caliper
* BECK/ARNLEY 0771927S {4785053051} Remanufactured Reman Remanufactured - Semi-Loaded Semi-Loaded - Rear Left; Single Piston Caliper

And I didn't need to cycle the ABS pump when I bled my brakes. So far so good.

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

You can make due without having to do a brake fluid flush if you don't want to; you just need to purchase some of these :

http://toolmonger.com/2009/01/13/dea...hose-pinchers/

Clamp onto the flexible caliper brake hose and then remove the line from the caliper. Attach the new one (with a NEW crush washer), and then release the brake line clamp. You should be fine; but you might need to bleed out the tad bit of air that built up between the end of the hose and that clamp when disconnected.

Good luck!

jjc250

I managed to remove the seized caliper as well as the pin and the boot today.

When I tried to screw back the bottom pin, it seems like there this little free to play on the pin itself. Since there's no tool specified for that pin, I can only tighten it by hand but it seems like it could be tighter. It was like this too when I was hammering the outer caliper. Although the pin is seized, I can wiggle it a little.

Does this sound normal?

drwafk

The bottom pin shouldn't turn if i remember correctly. I'm glad you got it out, Now clean the **** out of it and you'll be surprised how well it works and thank me yoU saved cheddar.

jjc250

Yea I figured the bottom pin shouldn't turn or move unless it's being removed. New problem is I sanded it too smooth and with the grease I put on, it's very difficult to get a good grip of the pin and screw it back tight.

drwafk

Clean it, use channel locks, regrease. Take a picture for me so i can have a look.

jjc250

I managed to finish driver's side no problem.I also replaced brake pads, but it looks to me that the outer pad is touching the rotor. I didn't have trouble sliding the pads in and I can freely push and pull the caliper no problem but it seems like the outer pad is lightly resting on the rotor. This sounds normal?

ps. the piston is pushed in all the way. Also when I pull the caliper towards me all the way, it moves back towards the opposite side a little, which is why the outer pad is touching the rotor.

drwafk

Yes this is normal. You don't want any space between the pads and rotor however you don't want friction on the install. Meaning, don't hammer the pad into place. It should go in freely. When you put it all back together and pull out for the first time, be ready to pump your brakes. They will not be as responsive the first time. You'll need to seat them against the rotors essentially.

jjc250

Moving to the rear passenger, surprisingly the caliper weren't exactly seized ( still barely any grease left). Since the rim on this side was hot after driving the other day, I took the caliper off and re-grease it, but guess what, the piston won't push back.(the master cylinder cap was removed) I've already broke 2 C-clamps trying push it back. I guess the old pads will go on this side; that shouldn't be too much of a problem I'm hoping?

drwafk

No man, you shouldnt have to remove the master cylinder cap or put back your old pads. Something isnt right....kinked line maybe? You should be able to get the piston in far enough for new pads.