See5

Hi

When I apply the brakes on my is350 I need to press the brake pedal for something like 1.5 inch before the car actually starts braking. I went to a workshop and they suggested replacing the master cylinder. So I let them replace it and flush the brake fluid with new DOT 3 Toyota brake fluid too.

But three months later & the problem is still present. It is really bad because you don't get a fast response from the brake and you need to use more effort to brake. If I pressed the pedal all the way it would stop very well with the ABS. So it feels like there is air somewhere.

My car is 2007 with 107k miles, I drove 2012 and the brake in the 2012 model is way better, I can say there is no free play at all !

Any suggestions ?


Thank you


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UPDATE:
In addition to bleeding the brake fluid, the problem was seized rear brake calipers.

Unfortunately one bolt broke into the caliper and required a lot of machining to get it out. Furthermore, the bolt cannot be found anywhere, when ordering it in the dealer with the VIN you will be getting a smaller bolt. This left my car in the workshop standing for 4 days. Finally we solved this by machining a new matching bolt for $27. After finishing I did sanding and spray paint the caliper in black, and now the car stops great !!






Caliper after removing the stuck bolt that broke into the two parts. Welding a metal rod to each bolt and then removing the rod did the trick.





The bolt that broke and cannot be found is on the right side. On the left side is what you can get which is smaller and can't fit. (Ref. from google)





Inner brake pad is completely worn, outer is nearly untouched due to stuck guide pins. The other caliper had much more noticeable difference.

SebaPR

get more oem lexus/toyota brake fluid and repeat the bleed maybe they missed a bubble?

See5

Hi,


thanks I will try that and update.


my rear calipers are rusty idk if this is a cause.


and I use Akebono aftermarket brakepads in the front, which are actually more expensive than the oem.

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

^Yeah, check the rear calipers for being seized. I've already replaced my a couple years ago. Though I don't think that has much to do with your pedal-travel issue, it's something to look out for.

Have you tried adjusting the master cylinder rod that attaches to the brake pedal?

RXGS

iTrader: (2)

Sticking calipers will definitely cause a spongy brake pedal. The front left was sticking on my GS300 even after bleeding the system so I checked the calipers and after regreasing the pins, the car stops great

See5

SOLVED

There was air in the master cylinder ! Beading from the calipers won't help, technician said. Now the brakes engage 1 inch earlier.
There is still little spongy feel I am suspecting I need to grease the pins as 02SDGS said.

I will give you a feedback again.

Thanks

See5

Thread Updated, problem is now fully solved . Check thread please.

Soledad

Thank you for posting and updating this!!!

I am feeling the same problem with my brakes. The problem really rears its ugly head when the car is cold and you are at a stop sign or stop light and the engine hasn't quite warmed up yet and is still at a high idle. I have to use a lot of pedal pressure to keep the car from moving.

I suspected I may have a fluid or rear bias issue and was going to just shotgun the problem and replace all pads and rotors and do a power flush since it is technically due for those things. Now I feel better about doing it and that it will resolve the problem.

EDIT: I really wish this site let you give reps.

smokyis350

iTrader: (21)

Yikes... What a pain in the butt to deal with. Flush --> Master cylinder replacement/flush --> Seized rear brakes/flush

See5

Hi smokyis350

Belive what was Pain in the butt is not finding a caliper pin, and after 4 days of waiting figuring out machining a new bolt is the only way to move on. Machining the bolt took 1.2 hours in the machining workshop. They could not do the Allen key side though !.

Overall, I would recommend greasing the calipers annually at least. Or maybe its just my car had a bad grease, by bad I mean a grease that is not silicon grease.


Best regards !

See5

Hi,
Feels creepy not having a strong brake, get your calipers inspected first. Flush is recommended but replacing rotors might not be necessary. Also, pads that have even wear and life left in them are not a problem too. Check your pins they should be greased and bleed your brake fluid if you haven't.

Soledad

Thanks See5!

Yeah, I'll pull the wheels and check everything first. If the pads look good I'll lube up the slide pins, flush the system and see how it does for a while.

See5

Hi Guys,
I would appreciate if someone can help supply the bigger bolt. Even if used. The machined bolt that we created is not matching, I hear hammering sound when pressing the brake sometimes.




The bolt that broke and cannot be found is on the right side. On the left side is what you can get which is smaller and can't fit. (Ref. from google)

Soledad

Have you checked out rockauto.com for the Guide Pin?

Oh, and both my rear calipers were seized. Got new rear calipers and just waiting to install them.

See5

Hi,

Thanks for the replay. I checked but not sure about the size. They have three sets that are looking similar. IDK what is the OEM brand
-CARLSON 14208
-DORMAN HW14950
-RAYBESTOS H15255 Professional Grade


thanks, please give me your feedback once you finish installing.