BIG suspension install --- need advice
#1
BIG suspension install --- need advice
I have a 2008 Lexus IS250.
I split the installation of my parts because I just don't have the time to do so due to work.
I installed the following so far.
Fortune Auto 500 coilovers 14k front/10k rear with Swift springs
Cusco 30mm front/ Cusco 19mm rear sway bars
Tanabe Sustec 2 point front under brace
F-Sport Rear Chassis Brace
Cusco Front Strut Tower Bar
I have an appointment at this well known place called Evasive Motorsports in So Cal to get the rest of my suspension parts installed. I know I should've waited, it would've saved me a lot of money and now I regret but hey what can I do about that now.
I have the following parts sitting in my house:
-SPC Front Ball Joints
-SPC Rear Camber Arms
-F-Sport Steering Damper
-2012 IS-F Steering ECU (does this need to be calibrated by the dealership after?)
-MOOG Tie Rod Ends I have 2 of the outter or inner, as they messed up and only sent me 1 of the outer or inner
-FIGS Front Lower Arm Rear Mount #2 Polyurtherane Bushing High Performance 90
I'm debating if I should get the FIGS sway bar bushings for the front and the rear.
Also debating of selling the SPC front and rear and go FIGS? The price is a HUGE difference, but is it worth it?
http://shopfigs.com/v1/index.php?rou...product_id=162
http://shopfigs.com/v1/index.php?rou...product_id=179
Lastly are there any other FIGS bushings that are worth getting? I heard about the Front Upper Control Arm bushings are a good upgrade as well?
There's a many more other replacement FIGS bushings that all seem important, but they are all $75+ so I'm not sure which ones are the ones I should replace or if they are all worth it to replace if I got the money.
My cars suspension has 128k miles. Got a new engine at 99k miles. I plan to drive this til it dies hopefully 250k+
Bottom line: Should I keep my SPC Front Ball joints and SPC rear camber arms and add whatever FIGS bushings you guys recommend, or ditch SPC all together and go FIGS, and if so, what should I get?
Thanks guys
I split the installation of my parts because I just don't have the time to do so due to work.
I installed the following so far.
Fortune Auto 500 coilovers 14k front/10k rear with Swift springs
Cusco 30mm front/ Cusco 19mm rear sway bars
Tanabe Sustec 2 point front under brace
F-Sport Rear Chassis Brace
Cusco Front Strut Tower Bar
I have an appointment at this well known place called Evasive Motorsports in So Cal to get the rest of my suspension parts installed. I know I should've waited, it would've saved me a lot of money and now I regret but hey what can I do about that now.
I have the following parts sitting in my house:
-SPC Front Ball Joints
-SPC Rear Camber Arms
-F-Sport Steering Damper
-2012 IS-F Steering ECU (does this need to be calibrated by the dealership after?)
-MOOG Tie Rod Ends I have 2 of the outter or inner, as they messed up and only sent me 1 of the outer or inner
-FIGS Front Lower Arm Rear Mount #2 Polyurtherane Bushing High Performance 90
I'm debating if I should get the FIGS sway bar bushings for the front and the rear.
Also debating of selling the SPC front and rear and go FIGS? The price is a HUGE difference, but is it worth it?
http://shopfigs.com/v1/index.php?rou...product_id=162
http://shopfigs.com/v1/index.php?rou...product_id=179
Lastly are there any other FIGS bushings that are worth getting? I heard about the Front Upper Control Arm bushings are a good upgrade as well?
There's a many more other replacement FIGS bushings that all seem important, but they are all $75+ so I'm not sure which ones are the ones I should replace or if they are all worth it to replace if I got the money.
My cars suspension has 128k miles. Got a new engine at 99k miles. I plan to drive this til it dies hopefully 250k+
Bottom line: Should I keep my SPC Front Ball joints and SPC rear camber arms and add whatever FIGS bushings you guys recommend, or ditch SPC all together and go FIGS, and if so, what should I get?
Thanks guys
#2
Pole Position
iTrader: (8)
I love FIGS parts... i'd use every FIGS poly bushing they offer and then anything they don't i'd go elsewhere for. Def get the rear traction arm bushings for $45. It's cheap and easy access. You'll be right in there swapping out the LCA anyways. The toe links, end links, and so on.
I've had my FIGS stuff on for about a week now... huge difference over stock. Still need several more parts to tie it all in but I can tell you i'd go FIGS all over again if given the opportunity.
I've had my FIGS stuff on for about a week now... huge difference over stock. Still need several more parts to tie it all in but I can tell you i'd go FIGS all over again if given the opportunity.
#3
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (3)
i was trying to figure this out:
I have figs mega rear arms (not installed yet)... can they even be used to correct camber from lowering without the toe arms?
i.e. is there even any point in having them without toe arms? I heard that adjusting camber with these may throw off toe from factory specs....
I'll be lowering on bc coils 24.5" fender to ground..
I have figs mega rear arms (not installed yet)... can they even be used to correct camber from lowering without the toe arms?
i.e. is there even any point in having them without toe arms? I heard that adjusting camber with these may throw off toe from factory specs....
I'll be lowering on bc coils 24.5" fender to ground..
#5
Lead Lap
iTrader: (2)
I've given my 2 cents, but here it is again.
First of all since you have an M3 for real high performance driving, I don't see the need for you to go bat-crap-crazy with the 250. For that reason I say stay with the SPC stuff, FIGS doesn't have a good solution for front camber adjustment (IMO) and while I agree that all their stuff is spot on, I don't think replacing the rear camber arm with FIGS stuff is going to buy you anything. If this were a car you planned on taking to the track on even a semi-regular basis my opinion would change.
When it comes to replacing all the rest of the bushings in the car you need to keep a few things in mind:
1. The reason you replace factory bushings with polyurethane is to reduce uncontrolled suspension movement. You just spent a decent amount of coin on some coilovers, if you are interested in the performance increase from coilovers you could say that you spent money on them in order to reduce uncontrolled suspension movement. Same goes for the chassis braces. So replacing bushings in order to reduce uncontrolled suspension movement is a good thing and you should do so where it is reasonable.
2. Rule of thumb: The bigger the bushing, the greater the potential for deflection, so replace the bigger bushings first. Since you have the Front Rear #2 bushing, you have started in the right place. You could argue that after this you are in the area of diminishing returns.
3. I've heard from a couple of well informed members here that the rear subframe bushings on our cars are pretty soft, and I am not aware of any aftermarket solution. So any bushing replaced on the rear suspension isn't going to have as big as an effect as you would like it to.
4. Last of all, take into consideration the age/mileage of your car. Bushings can wear out and should be replaced if worn out.
With all of that said I'd put your priority list like this, and I'd use FIGS for all of these except where OEM is the only thing available:
1. swaybar, especially if they are original and were not replaced with the new swaybars.
2. OEM subframe
3. Front upper control arm
4. Rear lower inner
5. Rear lower knuckle (press in bearings, not bushings)
After that, IMO, you are really in the area of diminishing returns and I would simply replace what is worn out. Have Evasive Motorsports have a look at stuff and see what they think could use replacing.
First of all since you have an M3 for real high performance driving, I don't see the need for you to go bat-crap-crazy with the 250. For that reason I say stay with the SPC stuff, FIGS doesn't have a good solution for front camber adjustment (IMO) and while I agree that all their stuff is spot on, I don't think replacing the rear camber arm with FIGS stuff is going to buy you anything. If this were a car you planned on taking to the track on even a semi-regular basis my opinion would change.
When it comes to replacing all the rest of the bushings in the car you need to keep a few things in mind:
1. The reason you replace factory bushings with polyurethane is to reduce uncontrolled suspension movement. You just spent a decent amount of coin on some coilovers, if you are interested in the performance increase from coilovers you could say that you spent money on them in order to reduce uncontrolled suspension movement. Same goes for the chassis braces. So replacing bushings in order to reduce uncontrolled suspension movement is a good thing and you should do so where it is reasonable.
2. Rule of thumb: The bigger the bushing, the greater the potential for deflection, so replace the bigger bushings first. Since you have the Front Rear #2 bushing, you have started in the right place. You could argue that after this you are in the area of diminishing returns.
3. I've heard from a couple of well informed members here that the rear subframe bushings on our cars are pretty soft, and I am not aware of any aftermarket solution. So any bushing replaced on the rear suspension isn't going to have as big as an effect as you would like it to.
4. Last of all, take into consideration the age/mileage of your car. Bushings can wear out and should be replaced if worn out.
With all of that said I'd put your priority list like this, and I'd use FIGS for all of these except where OEM is the only thing available:
1. swaybar, especially if they are original and were not replaced with the new swaybars.
2. OEM subframe
3. Front upper control arm
4. Rear lower inner
5. Rear lower knuckle (press in bearings, not bushings)
After that, IMO, you are really in the area of diminishing returns and I would simply replace what is worn out. Have Evasive Motorsports have a look at stuff and see what they think could use replacing.
#6
I've given my 2 cents, but here it is again.
First of all since you have an M3 for real high performance driving, I don't see the need for you to go bat-crap-crazy with the 250. For that reason I say stay with the SPC stuff, FIGS doesn't have a good solution for front camber adjustment (IMO) and while I agree that all their stuff is spot on, I don't think replacing the rear camber arm with FIGS stuff is going to buy you anything. If this were a car you planned on taking to the track on even a semi-regular basis my opinion would change.
When it comes to replacing all the rest of the bushings in the car you need to keep a few things in mind:
1. The reason you replace factory bushings with polyurethane is to reduce uncontrolled suspension movement. You just spent a decent amount of coin on some coilovers, if you are interested in the performance increase from coilovers you could say that you spent money on them in order to reduce uncontrolled suspension movement. Same goes for the chassis braces. So replacing bushings in order to reduce uncontrolled suspension movement is a good thing and you should do so where it is reasonable.
2. Rule of thumb: The bigger the bushing, the greater the potential for deflection, so replace the bigger bushings first. Since you have the Front Rear #2 bushing, you have started in the right place. You could argue that after this you are in the area of diminishing returns.
3. I've heard from a couple of well informed members here that the rear subframe bushings on our cars are pretty soft, and I am not aware of any aftermarket solution. So any bushing replaced on the rear suspension isn't going to have as big as an effect as you would like it to.
4. Last of all, take into consideration the age/mileage of your car. Bushings can wear out and should be replaced if worn out.
With all of that said I'd put your priority list like this, and I'd use FIGS for all of these except where OEM is the only thing available:
1. swaybar, especially if they are original and were not replaced with the new swaybars.
2. OEM subframe
3. Front upper control arm
4. Rear lower inner
5. Rear lower knuckle (press in bearings, not bushings)
After that, IMO, you are really in the area of diminishing returns and I would simply replace what is worn out. Have Evasive Motorsports have a look at stuff and see what they think could use replacing.
First of all since you have an M3 for real high performance driving, I don't see the need for you to go bat-crap-crazy with the 250. For that reason I say stay with the SPC stuff, FIGS doesn't have a good solution for front camber adjustment (IMO) and while I agree that all their stuff is spot on, I don't think replacing the rear camber arm with FIGS stuff is going to buy you anything. If this were a car you planned on taking to the track on even a semi-regular basis my opinion would change.
When it comes to replacing all the rest of the bushings in the car you need to keep a few things in mind:
1. The reason you replace factory bushings with polyurethane is to reduce uncontrolled suspension movement. You just spent a decent amount of coin on some coilovers, if you are interested in the performance increase from coilovers you could say that you spent money on them in order to reduce uncontrolled suspension movement. Same goes for the chassis braces. So replacing bushings in order to reduce uncontrolled suspension movement is a good thing and you should do so where it is reasonable.
2. Rule of thumb: The bigger the bushing, the greater the potential for deflection, so replace the bigger bushings first. Since you have the Front Rear #2 bushing, you have started in the right place. You could argue that after this you are in the area of diminishing returns.
3. I've heard from a couple of well informed members here that the rear subframe bushings on our cars are pretty soft, and I am not aware of any aftermarket solution. So any bushing replaced on the rear suspension isn't going to have as big as an effect as you would like it to.
4. Last of all, take into consideration the age/mileage of your car. Bushings can wear out and should be replaced if worn out.
With all of that said I'd put your priority list like this, and I'd use FIGS for all of these except where OEM is the only thing available:
1. swaybar, especially if they are original and were not replaced with the new swaybars.
2. OEM subframe
3. Front upper control arm
4. Rear lower inner
5. Rear lower knuckle (press in bearings, not bushings)
After that, IMO, you are really in the area of diminishing returns and I would simply replace what is worn out. Have Evasive Motorsports have a look at stuff and see what they think could use replacing.
2. OEM subframe? What solution/parts are you talking about that FIGS offers?
3. Front upper control arm? You mean the bushing kit? Link me if you can please.
4. Link me please,
5. This the rear LCA? A link would be appreciated. Thank you so much for your advice.
Also, what do I do with my SPC Front ball joints and SPC rear camber kit? Sell it?
#7
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (3)
i sold my ball joints on account that I may not even need them.
i have my figs mega rear lca's: http://shopfigs.com/v1/index.php?rou...&product_id=58
(these are the entry economy version in the link.. i have the sport version)
Mike @ Figs is a suspension expert for our cars, and he handled my hundreds of questions! Great guy who's happy to help!
i have my figs mega rear lca's: http://shopfigs.com/v1/index.php?rou...&product_id=58
(these are the entry economy version in the link.. i have the sport version)
Mike @ Figs is a suspension expert for our cars, and he handled my hundreds of questions! Great guy who's happy to help!
Last edited by Nixcision; 03-03-15 at 12:08 PM.
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#8
Lead Lap
iTrader: (2)
1. Replaced with Cusco front/rear sway bar. Is it worth buying the FIGS front and rear sway bar bushings? Also, what about the end links? The end links are very expensive, but if it's worth it I will get it.
2. OEM subframe? What solution/parts are you talking about that FIGS offers?
3. Front upper control arm? You mean the bushing kit? Link me if you can please.
4. Link me please,
5. This the rear LCA? A link would be appreciated. Thank you so much for your advice.
Also, what do I do with my SPC Front ball joints and SPC rear camber kit? Sell it?
2. OEM subframe? What solution/parts are you talking about that FIGS offers?
3. Front upper control arm? You mean the bushing kit? Link me if you can please.
4. Link me please,
5. This the rear LCA? A link would be appreciated. Thank you so much for your advice.
Also, what do I do with my SPC Front ball joints and SPC rear camber kit? Sell it?
2. No aftermarket (including FIGS) solution that I know of. You'll need to get these from a Lexus dealer. https://www.parts.com/index.cfm?fuse...0-Base-V6-2.5- Liter-GAS
3 & 4 are the bushings in the linked diagram. You'll need 2 of each, while you are in there you should think about replacing the rest of the hardware. (5 & 7, along with some nuts that aren't shown).
3. http://shopfigs.com/v1/index.php?rou...product_id=109
4. http://shopfigs.com/v1/index.php?rou...product_id=112
5. http://shopfigs.com/v1/index.php?rou...product_id=258
Keep the SPC ball joints and camber kit, you'll need it to get your alignment back to factory specs after lowering.
#9
1 Did the Cusco bars come with new bushings? If so I wouldn't worry about replacing the bushings. I also wouldn't worry about the end links for your application unless by chance you need the adjustability because your sway bars are hitting something.
2. No aftermarket (including FIGS) solution that I know of. You'll need to get these from a Lexus dealer. https://www.parts.com/index.cfm?fuse...0-Base-V6-2.5- Liter-GAS
3 & 4 are the bushings in the linked diagram. You'll need 2 of each, while you are in there you should think about replacing the rest of the hardware. (5 & 7, along with some nuts that aren't shown).
3. http://shopfigs.com/v1/index.php?rou...product_id=109
4. http://shopfigs.com/v1/index.php?rou...product_id=112
5. http://shopfigs.com/v1/index.php?rou...product_id=258
Keep the SPC ball joints and camber kit, you'll need it to get your alignment back to factory specs after lowering.
2. No aftermarket (including FIGS) solution that I know of. You'll need to get these from a Lexus dealer. https://www.parts.com/index.cfm?fuse...0-Base-V6-2.5- Liter-GAS
3 & 4 are the bushings in the linked diagram. You'll need 2 of each, while you are in there you should think about replacing the rest of the hardware. (5 & 7, along with some nuts that aren't shown).
3. http://shopfigs.com/v1/index.php?rou...product_id=109
4. http://shopfigs.com/v1/index.php?rou...product_id=112
5. http://shopfigs.com/v1/index.php?rou...product_id=258
Keep the SPC ball joints and camber kit, you'll need it to get your alignment back to factory specs after lowering.
http://shopfigs.com/v1/index.php?rou...product_id=197
Are these the same as the UPC bushings you linked me but with camber?
Why keep the rear links? Won't I not need them anymore after getiting the mega arms ?
#10
Lead Lap
iTrader: (2)
http://shopfigs.com/v1/index.php?rou...product_id=197
Are these the same as the UPC bushings you linked me but with camber?
Why keep the rear links? Won't I not need them anymore after getiting the mega arms ?
Are these the same as the UPC bushings you linked me but with camber?
Why keep the rear links? Won't I not need them anymore after getiting the mega arms ?
If you do get the rear mega arms you won't need the rear links. I think for your application the rear links are a better fit than the mega arms.
#11
There won't be a noticeable difference between the FIGS mega arms over the SPC rear camber kit arms?
Yes those bushings will allow you to adjust camber, but in order to do so you remove the upper control arm, take the bushings out, rotate them a bit, re-install everything, and then check your camber. Repeat as necessary until you get the camber where you want it. It could easily turn into an all-day job to get the camber where you want it. With SPC ball joints, or a Megan upper arm, you loosen some bolts, adjust the camber and re-tighten. It is a 5 minute job with simple hand tools for each adjustment compared to a 1 hour plus job with specialized tools.
If you do get the rear mega arms you won't need the rear links. I think for your application the rear links are a better fit than the mega arms.
If you do get the rear mega arms you won't need the rear links. I think for your application the rear links are a better fit than the mega arms.
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