Lower Ball Joints - best replacement options
#1
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Lower Ball Joints - best replacement options
my 1999 GS400 Has 64k & the repair shop is telling me the lower ball joints are "very loose" - I have read the reports of them failing on others while driving anywhere from 74k - 120k miles...
my question is should I be using OEM or Moog ? I've read reports that the Moog parts are cheaply made in Korea and issues with Some part numbers starting with RK should be avoided.. here's the part # 's for OEM the quote I got - it's seems high
part # LE43330-39535 $134 each + $123 labor (each side) total both sides= $583.08
I am seeing parts from Master-Pro chassis, import-direct chassis & Beck/arnley and Dura-last from $44-$67 each from autozone & oreilly auto parts... - exact part # 's others have used would be helpful... I'm looking for high quality /long lasting.
should anything else be replaced at the same time (upper joints, arms or castle nut / cotter pin etc - or is the repair shop trying to rip me off..
my question is should I be using OEM or Moog ? I've read reports that the Moog parts are cheaply made in Korea and issues with Some part numbers starting with RK should be avoided.. here's the part # 's for OEM the quote I got - it's seems high
part # LE43330-39535 $134 each + $123 labor (each side) total both sides= $583.08
I am seeing parts from Master-Pro chassis, import-direct chassis & Beck/arnley and Dura-last from $44-$67 each from autozone & oreilly auto parts... - exact part # 's others have used would be helpful... I'm looking for high quality /long lasting.
should anything else be replaced at the same time (upper joints, arms or castle nut / cotter pin etc - or is the repair shop trying to rip me off..
#2
what very loose? do you feel anything through the steering wheel when driving. if you raise the car and grab the tire at 12 and 6 with a pull push motion can you feel any looseness which would indicate loose ball joints? im not sure on this model for the lower ball joint u might just need a 17mm impact and a ball joint seperator and a hammer. maybe some oil penetrant . i would have them show you the lower control arm bushings. minor cracks ok but full tears need replacement. you can reu
#3
what very loose? do you feel anything through the steering wheel when driving. if you raise the car and grab the tire at 12 and 6 with a pull push motion can you feel any looseness which would indicate loose ball joints? im not sure on this model for the lower ball joint u might just need a 17mm impact and a ball joint seperator and a hammer. maybe some oil penetrant . i would have them show you the lower control arm bushings. minor cracks ok but full tears need replacement. you can reuse the castle nut and cotter pin if you didnt destroy them taking them off.
#4
Driver School Candidate
You should replace them immediately. My 01 gs430's lower ball joint broke and it was very bad luckly i was goin about 5mph but i cant imagine what would happen if it was on the freeway..summit racing has them for about $34 a piece also replace both tie rods since its all there might as well do everything at once there about 15 a piece also from summitracing.com i recommend there parts they say made in japan so i assume good quality. Good luck to you get it done before its to late!
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my 1999 GS400 Has 64k & the repair shop is telling me the lower ball joints are "very loose" - I have read the reports of them failing on others while driving anywhere from 74k - 120k miles...
my question is should I be using OEM or Moog ? I've read reports that the Moog parts are cheaply made in Korea and issues with Some part numbers starting with RK should be avoided.. here's the part # 's for OEM the quote I got - it's seems high
part # LE43330-39535 $134 each + $123 labor (each side) total both sides= $583.08
I am seeing parts from Master-Pro chassis, import-direct chassis & Beck/arnley and Dura-last from $44-$67 each from autozone & oreilly auto parts... - exact part # 's others have used would be helpful... I'm looking for high quality /long lasting.
should anything else be replaced at the same time (upper joints, arms or castle nut / cotter pin etc - or is the repair shop trying to rip me off..
my question is should I be using OEM or Moog ? I've read reports that the Moog parts are cheaply made in Korea and issues with Some part numbers starting with RK should be avoided.. here's the part # 's for OEM the quote I got - it's seems high
part # LE43330-39535 $134 each + $123 labor (each side) total both sides= $583.08
I am seeing parts from Master-Pro chassis, import-direct chassis & Beck/arnley and Dura-last from $44-$67 each from autozone & oreilly auto parts... - exact part # 's others have used would be helpful... I'm looking for high quality /long lasting.
should anything else be replaced at the same time (upper joints, arms or castle nut / cotter pin etc - or is the repair shop trying to rip me off..
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tiguy99 (08-16-17)
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