ashtray

iTrader: (12)

Hey, forum

So when I'm reversing out of a parking spot and turn the wheel, it has a sort of hopping or jerking effect...the best way I could describe it is..imagine the front wheels 100% perpendicular to the rear wheels, now try to drive forward and imagine how the front wheels might hop or skip while being pushed forward..that is what my front wheels feel like they're doing when I reverse with the wheel turned. Like they'll rotate about half of a full revolution and then it'll hop or jerk and the faster I reverse the more it does it. It feels HORRIBLE like if the wheels are going to fall off but I'm not sure what to visually inspect for. Any ideas? For reference I'm on coilovers but not slammed at all, 18 inch rims and with all original '97 bushings hardware etc. Thanks for any input on this.

Best,
Ashtray

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

Mine does something similar from time to time, but mostly when the typical hesitation issues are present. I have them mostly squashed, but they still rear their head every now and then... I suspect it has something to do with the IAC or speed-sensitive power steering getting out of whack and trying to adjust at low speeds. Some days it's smooth as can be, others it feels like I'm driving over huge metal grates.

Dougspeed

iTrader: (2)

This is typical of most SCs that have worn lower control arm bushings. Had it happen to my 92 SC. It's easy to see, just have someone put your car into reverse from a stopped position and you will see the front wheels shift forward. Then have your friend put it in drive and go forward, the front wheels should then shift towards the rear. If it's only happening while turning, could be a bad tie rod.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

Dougspeed, wouldn't that be a one-time lurch going either direction? Maybe that's what ashtray was describing (didn't seem like it from, "the faster I reverse the more it does it"), not sure, but mine is a repeated thing so probably not the same situation.

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

I've seen what you're talking about on automatic models. Mine is a 5 speed.

edit: But so far we have bad tie rod and/or worn out control arm bushings. What else could be the cause of this? Everyone who gets into my car notices it...so I know it is not just me.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

how much are you turning the wheel? if turning more than a little its not that uncommon when going with wider wheels. whats the wheel width in the front?
I would generally start by getting the front wheels up and give it a test see if it has play in the 12/6 oclock, or 3/9 oclock positions. Also spin them to see if a caliper is hanging up, the front wheels should spin freely, check for obstruction in the brake parts like small rocks etc..
If you have play in the 3/9 you could have the tie rod issue as mentioned, and would make something like that alot worse. if you have play in all directions then check the wheel bearings but thats unusual.

sometimes its easier to just replace the whole rack on these cars if you are having tie/rod steering issues. if one is toast then the other one is not far behind.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...ement-diy.html

turbodremz

iTrader: (18)

My SC has done this since the day I owned it. New LCA's with urethane bushings and it still does it. Only thing that isnt new is the steering rack/tierod ends, but these were in perfect condition when I purchased the car (only had 73k miles at the time). It has done it with tires from a 185 to a 255 width in the front. Ive just gotten used to it, and know that its worse when parked in dirt or dirty concrete parking lots.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

I'm still not sure if we're talking about different things, but FWIW, I've got a new rack and tie rod ends, so that probably isn't the common culprit.

turbodremz

iTrader: (18)

I only feel it when my steering is turned to lock and Im backing up, but it feels like the front of the car is hopping slightly, or slipping. First time I felt it, I pretty much tore my entire front end apart and found nothing wrong.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

Probably not the same thing. Mine is a repeated bucking, like the brakes are locking up. I'd be inclined to suspect the ABS, but it was happening long before I realized the jumper was missing from the diagnostics box to enable it.

Dougspeed

iTrader: (2)

Since this is occurring only when backing up and doing more of a bucking thing, I just wonder if the pump at full lock is bogging the engine down enough to make it buck. I also wonder if it's doing the same thing when I had tires that where too high in profile. As in the overall diameter was bigger than stock and it kept hitting the front part of the wheel well when backing up and turned at full lock. It kind did a stuttering.

In the end, it's probably the best to have a good mechanic diagnose it, or at the very least, have someone outside watching your car as you backup and have the wheel turned at full lock. Or you watch as you have a friend do this.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

That's possible. My idle does tend to run on the low side, so it wouldn't take much to push it over the edge. However, I've never noticed that mine does it worse at full lock. It'll happen from time to time pulling into a parking lot space, with the wheels almost straight ahead.

Mine are 0.2" taller than stock -- the comparable +1 sizing -- so I don't think that's what's going on, at least with mine.

Agreed. I've held off on going the mechanic route since it's so sporadic, it would be one of those tail chasing things to diagnose until I can at least pinpoint what sequence of events causes it.

acacg

Man... it sounds like upper control arm bushings and tie rods. if it usually does in reverse it can be bushings and ball joints causing the alignment to go out and bind.

ALI SC3 talked about the play test. it usually takes a car on the lift and a pry bar to check for play on bushings.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Yes a big pry bar to check the bushings on the control arms and try not to hurt yourself or pry the car off of the lift in the process. I think you will benefit more from a normal push and pull test on different part of the wheel itself.
also there are like a half dozen large subframe brace bolts under the car between the control arm and transmission sort of and those should be double checked and retorqued every once in a while. there is a thread on it, not related to your problem specifically but it can remove some of the clunkiness sometimes.