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Shaking after replacing rotors and pads

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Old 04-11-12, 09:20 PM
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Marexus
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My problem was more then likely mismatched pads to rotors causing an uneven braking surface.

or

Getting warped in shipping, which is something that used to happen when I was younger working at autozone.

The guy that worked on it told me 5/10 new rotors he gets have to be resurfaced...
Old 04-12-12, 06:11 AM
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Kurtz
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Originally Posted by RocketGuy3
Hmmm... switching from the high-dust OEM to low-dust OEM pads isn't what would be considered switching to a "completely different" kind of pad, is it? If so, I guess I maybe should have done more to clean my rotors...

But thanks for the bedding in info. That sounds like a fairly intense procedure. I have no idea where I would even do that other than a track. Maybe on the freeway at 3:30 am? Heh.

After reading some of this, I'm slightly surprised I haven't run into any problems with my pads yet. I just slapped new pads in there, have driven a decent bit normally, and so far so good. *knock on wood*

Well, keep in mind that's the ideal method to bed pads in, and get it done in under an hour.

Simply driving gently on them for 300-500 miles will ALSO bed the pads especially on new rotors... but:

1) It takes way longer

2) That whole time you risk screwing the process up if you have to do something like make a really hard stop and sit on the hot brakes while stopped or something

3) If you need to "clean up" any unevenness or different compound from previous pads this isn't the ideal method

Hence why it's better to insure it's properly done, and quickly, if possible.



Originally Posted by Marexus
My problem was more then likely mismatched pads to rotors causing an uneven braking surface.

or

Getting warped in shipping, which is something that used to happen when I was younger working at autozone.

The guy that worked on it told me 5/10 new rotors he gets have to be resurfaced...
then that guy is an idiot.

If you receive new rotors that are defective, return them for non defective rotors- don't shave useful life off your BRAND NEW product then sell it to a customer as "new"

Or just stop buying from such a crappy supplier.

And if you can explain how a solid piece of iron can "warp in shipping" I'd love to hear that. It was defective when made if it's got excessive run-out when new.

Here's OE Quality Frictions FAQ on this:

Originally Posted by OEQF
Brand new rotors from a good manufacturer are ready to install right out of the box. Resurfacing is unnecessary and should not be done- it will reduce the thickness and life and can introduce new problems if not performed properly.

Cheap offshore rotors can have runout, thickness, or parallelism problems and may need resurfacing before use. These have not warped during storage (or shipping) but have been manufactured badly
(added)

Don't use badly manufactured parts.


Again, read that GM thing I posted, they mention more than once you should not resurface brand new rotors. If they're out of spec when they arrive, send them back and get non-defective parts.

Originally Posted by GM brake service procedure
New rotors SHOULD NOT be resurfaced before installation
then later on-
Originally Posted by GM brake service procedure
When installing new rotors, DO NOT reface them
As to the pad issue-I'm glad your issue is solved, but if that was the case then a good re-bed would likely have fixed it for free, without, again, shaving useful life off the rotor.

Like I said, cases where you should machine a rotor are relatively few. In most cases it's unnecessary and just leads to needing new rotors sooner.

Last edited by Kurtz; 04-12-12 at 06:25 AM.
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