starfyrels

iTrader: (2)

We all know we've got the issues with suspension on the GS. Some of us have vibration, some of our cars eat tires like its crazy, others are slammed and dont really care about anything, just looks. Now I've taken care of the following (prices are listed for reference):

- Riding on Brand new Megan LP coilovers (2010) --- $1,100
- Replaced Front UCA with brand new oem arms and new daizen bushings. (2010) --- $180.00
- Replaced Front Lower Ball Joints with brand new aftermarket joints (2010) --- $120.00
- Replaced front outer tie rods with brand new aftermarket rods (2010) --- $80.00
- Replaced front inner tie rods with brand new aftermarket rods (2010) --- $110.00
- Replaced front lower control arm bushing with daizen bushings (2010) --- $100.00 (Daizen Kit)
- Replaced front lower caster arm bushing with daizen bushings (2010) --- Included
- Replaced steering rack bushing with daizen bushings (2010) --- $40.00
- Replaced front sway bar bushings with daizen bushings (2010) --- $30.00
- Replaced rear sway bar bushings with daizen bushings (2010) --- Included
- Replaced rear toe control arms with top speed adjustable arms (2010) --- $150.00
- Replaced rear traction control rods with top speed adjustable rods (2010) --- $150.00
- Brand new front sway bar end links - $50.00
- Brand new rear sway bar end links - $60.00
- Brand new axxis premium organic brake pads front and rear (4/11) --- $100.00
- Brand new brake fit kit, both front and rear (1/11) --- $50.00
- Brand new caliper bolt pins and boot kit (12/10 and 4/11) --- $25.00
- Brand new rotors front and rear (4/11) --- $150.00
- Brand new timken front bearings/hubs (2/11) --- $180.00 (Labor + Parts)
- Brand new oem lugnuts (2/11) --- $60.00
- Brand new rear motor/transmission mount --- $50.00
- 4 Wheel Alignment --- $120.00

Total to date: $2,905 (5/19/2011)

With the above list, if the labor isn't listed I installed all parts myself.


My alignment is within spec - except for I believe my rear is .02 off in some spec. I have the sheet at home and will post as this discussion gets bigger.

I've had 20's with 245/35 front and 285/30 rear -- yes I know there are out of spec. These rims were driven about 300 miles when I first bought the car and I realized the damage they've done to my suspension.

I've had 18's with 245/35 front and 275/30 rears - these didn't vibrate at all, they were the 18 inch oem infiniti g35 coupe rims. I'm so sorry I sold them.

I've had 19's with 235/35 front and 265/30 rears, moven s5r, hub rings and by far the best rims that rode the best. Sold them to get oem rims.

I've currently got 17's 245/45 all around with oem gs 5-spoke rims om the car. I know they're not make for the car and the offset isnt the best but they were the best I could find in the short timeframe. Car is hella high and I hate it, but I needed rims to rule out other issues.

Current setup:



I know figs makes suspension parts, so does nagisa, tom's etc. More often than not I dont feel the need to spend thousands on arms to make a car ride 'stiffer or rigid', for track use, for drag use, etc. If I intended to do that I'd end up buying just that.

I've got a minimal amount of vibe up front, but I believe this is due to the stiffness of the poly bushings. The rear gives off a clunk sometimes. There's other mods I've done to the car and I'll be posting shortly once this is solved. I'm not new to the car modding scene by any means.

Whats up next?

- Replacing my mounts. Transmission mount first, then the two front motor mounts.

- Next up is the bushings in the rear (circled)



- After that, then I'll move into the differential mounts

- Aside from that I'll roll into the adjustable front uca and new rear uca.

- Next I'll upgrade the diff altogether and get some new rear axles and do the rear hub/bearing while there (correct me if I'm wrong).

I'll report back, but I'd like some help and input from guys who have issues with the rear.

I know theres a susp. fixes and facts thread but its mostly referenced about the fronts but this is to focus on what I did to my front and then move onto the rear.

starfyrels

iTrader: (2)

Reserved for more info. Probably needs to be moved as well. haha

tmf2004

iTrader: (15)

Are u replacing everything due to mileage and wear and tear or just for piece of mind?

breadbeat

This might answer a few of your questions.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...sion-part.html

j stuff

iTrader: (5)

ive decided to stop investigating every single thing i think may be wrong because youd go insane to try lol

vwynn

iTrader: (4)

at least some before n after pics

starfyrels

iTrader: (2)

My car had about 104,000 miles when I bought it. Paint was in rough shape and the car hadn't been driven since 2007 (I bought it in 2009) and I sold my 335i when I started driving the gs4 because I was tired of the problems. I had a chipped, i/h/e etc 335. So I started noticing things while driving and also read up alot on the forums and decided to start replacing things when I knew or my mech knew what the problem was and also doing preventive maintenance. I must say that this car has given me less motor problems than any other car I've owned (fully built turbo motors, n/a, factory turbo).

I've been following that thread and the bushing is the wrong type. I will be checking my rear this weekend.

Meh. for me it gives me something to do on the weekends. My g/f gets my time during the week and some weekends and work takes my 9-5. I know the car wont be perfect but I like using my hands and working on my cars.

Will do. I have a few write ups to post up soon.

GS4_Fiend

iTrader: (22)

If you still got vibrations, you might wanna check out your LCA #2. That's the one that goes bad.

Lextasy671

iTrader: (1)

Wow, you have an estimate on how much everything costs? ill admit, the riding low is cool and all but i really gotta start considering all those other stuff thats being abused..tire wear, bushings, camber..etc.

tmf2004

iTrader: (15)

The Daizen Kit should solve your problems and replace just about everything in the front end.. The steering rack and sway bar bushings are seperate..

AshburnM3

so you are replacing everythings in the front as a preventive maintenance or to solve a particular noise problem?

starfyrels

iTrader: (2)

The daizen bushing took care of this. I think my problem is that I went with the poly bushings which will pick up all the vibrations possible.

I'll be updating the post in a few days. I haven't had time to check out my rear end click and clunk. Once thats figured out I believe everything will be fine. My steering is great, and car tracks straight, no tire wear but I'm not completely lowered. There should be no reason why 'semi-lowered' cars should be riding like crap and eating up tires. This his how my prev. car was lowered. No tire wear, not extra parts except for H&R prem. coils.





Again, not slammed by means of how some guys on here on air are running negative camber but no where near stock height.

Already done.

Both, don't have noise though.

tmf2004

iTrader: (15)

love the look of the 335.. The thing i like most about BMW and MB is that there suspension from the factory seems to be set up perfectly in terms of drop and hight and adding wheels finishes the looks.. Every BMW i see looks lowered even with stock wheels..

tmf2004

iTrader: (15)

What kind of wheels are those?

starfyrels

iTrader: (2)

BBS LM's. The only wheels I'd put on a bmw or german car other than CSL's. Some guy from Miami bought the car.