IS250 Seized Front Caliper slide pin
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IS250 Seized Front Caliper slide pin
Went to change my front pads yesterday and it all went well except one of the caliper slide pins was seized. I think bc of this, one of my pads was worn down to almost nothing. I'm going to to the store and get some PB Blaster later see if that works. Anyone know any tips or tricks to un-seize the bolt? I don't want uneven pad wear or any other trouble with the braking system.
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I should also mention that before I changed my pads, the pedal was 'soft' and it took quite a bit of pedal travel to actually stop. With the new front pads, the pedal does not seem soft and travel is much shorter. I'm just worried that the soft pedal was from the stuck caliper slider pin and the issue will return soon. Also, my rear pads will be changed today, crossing fingers for no stuck caliper pins!
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Just finished the rear pads, looks like the rear, passenger side, caliper slide pins are seized as well. I could not fit the new outer pad. Right now I'm thinking of looking to replace both front and rear seized calipers with rebuilt/re-manufactured one's. Any suggestions? I don't want to upgrade to aftermarket BBK's, maybe IS350 calipers.
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I'm way outta warranty at 92k miles. I ordered new sliding pin's and will try to replace that first. When I had my recall done about 1.5yrs ago, they only changed one rear caliper.
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Well, last weekend I was able to fix the front where I had one seized pin and the rest were ok. It took a bit more work then I had anticipated so I never got to the rear. Since I both of the pin's are stuck on the rear caliper which will be a lot of work! I'm thinking of just biting the bullet and ordering remanufactured calipers since they're not too expensive (~80+ core).
As far as how the seized bolt was removed, we ended up heating up the caliper around where the seized bolt is with a torch. Soaking it did not work for us, nor brute force.
Every 30 sec or so, we were trying to turn the bolt while its hot. I don't think its a good idea to heat the metal too much as it can change its properties or crack. But we did heat it up quite a bit before the bolt decided it was ready to loosen up. When turning the bolt don't use a long breaker bar or anything with lots of leverage bc u can snap the bolt. Use a standard wrench (12in?), something like that.
We then cleaned the pin on a wire wheel. Also the caliper hole for the pin needed to be cleaned up, we carefully used a drill but (by hand, no drill) just to clean up the crud so that the pin can slide all the way in. Sprayed some brake cleaner in there as well then cleaned it all up, greased, assembled and reinstalled.
As far as how the seized bolt was removed, we ended up heating up the caliper around where the seized bolt is with a torch. Soaking it did not work for us, nor brute force.
Every 30 sec or so, we were trying to turn the bolt while its hot. I don't think its a good idea to heat the metal too much as it can change its properties or crack. But we did heat it up quite a bit before the bolt decided it was ready to loosen up. When turning the bolt don't use a long breaker bar or anything with lots of leverage bc u can snap the bolt. Use a standard wrench (12in?), something like that.
We then cleaned the pin on a wire wheel. Also the caliper hole for the pin needed to be cleaned up, we carefully used a drill but (by hand, no drill) just to clean up the crud so that the pin can slide all the way in. Sprayed some brake cleaner in there as well then cleaned it all up, greased, assembled and reinstalled.
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Well, last weekend I was able to fix the front where I had one seized pin and the rest were ok. It took a bit more work then I had anticipated so I never got to the rear. Since I both of the pin's are stuck on the rear caliper which will be a lot of work! I'm thinking of just biting the bullet and ordering remanufactured calipers since they're not too expensive (~80+ core).
As far as how the seized bolt was removed, we ended up heating up the caliper around where the seized bolt is with a torch. Soaking it did not work for us, nor brute force.
Every 30 sec or so, we were trying to turn the bolt while its hot. I don't think its a good idea to heat the metal too much as it can change its properties or crack. But we did heat it up quite a bit before the bolt decided it was ready to loosen up. When turning the bolt don't use a long breaker bar or anything with lots of leverage bc u can snap the bolt. Use a standard wrench (12in?), something like that.
We then cleaned the pin on a wire wheel. Also the caliper hole for the pin needed to be cleaned up, we carefully used a drill but (by hand, no drill) just to clean up the crud so that the pin can slide all the way in. Sprayed some brake cleaner in there as well then cleaned it all up, greased, assembled and reinstalled.
As far as how the seized bolt was removed, we ended up heating up the caliper around where the seized bolt is with a torch. Soaking it did not work for us, nor brute force.
Every 30 sec or so, we were trying to turn the bolt while its hot. I don't think its a good idea to heat the metal too much as it can change its properties or crack. But we did heat it up quite a bit before the bolt decided it was ready to loosen up. When turning the bolt don't use a long breaker bar or anything with lots of leverage bc u can snap the bolt. Use a standard wrench (12in?), something like that.
We then cleaned the pin on a wire wheel. Also the caliper hole for the pin needed to be cleaned up, we carefully used a drill but (by hand, no drill) just to clean up the crud so that the pin can slide all the way in. Sprayed some brake cleaner in there as well then cleaned it all up, greased, assembled and reinstalled.
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Funny story, I actually ordered a set of pins, I first replaced my good caliper pins, re-greased them and put everything back. Then went to work on the bad caliper and realized I only ordered one pair of pins not two. So that is why I ended up re-using the pin.
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I'm not aware of anyone selling just the pins, but if you can find them, this would definitely be the most cost effective (and probably one of the more labor intensive ones) route to go. If you plan to repair the caliper yourself, it would be best to remove it from the car and just bleed the brakes later. It's hard to try and break the pin loose while the brake line is still connected to it.