bigwhite

You also have a couple of things under the master cyl. to delete oldmantan. Try to throw us up some pics.

oldManTan

i'm hearing 2 different stories now, some say you need new lines completely and other say you can do it with regular lines and just the Ts, so which is it, from someone that's actually done it and can post pictures.

grumpi300

iTrader: (1)

I did this and believe I have pictures on my build thread but will post some more. all I did, but I didn't have traction, is just take off all the lines leading to the abs, take off the abs unit, make more lines going to the rear. its pretty easy considering the front lines have to be tee'd, the rear line just had to be made for the rear. its pretty small too considering the connector is just under the brake booster.

jmax.garage

iTrader: (2)

The way I did it (94; SC400):

= REMOVAL PROCESS =
1.- Removed ABS and TRAC components from right side of the car
2.- Removed the two ABS motors located under the Master Cylinder. To do this you have to remove the Master Cylinder, no way around it.
3.- At this point you are left with 5 very long brake lines all ending on the right side of the car (since the ABS junction block was there) and a short brake line coming from the right-front wheel.

= RE-ROUTING AND RE-CONNECTING THE LINES =
At this point I decided to route all the brake lines to the left side of the car (closer to the master cylinder) by using two tees from a 1994 Toyota Corolla sourced at our local Pick N Pull and by shortening the lines and using a flaring tool and a brake line bender.

The way I did this was by actually shortening the lines by a considerable amount and extending the line for the right-front wheel. This diagram exemplifies how I hooked it up:



Link to bigger picture: http://s30.photobucket.com/user/kidz...LINES.png.html

I shortened the 5 lines by cutting the lines to a comfortable length and re-flaring them using the same fitting on the line.

Then I extended the brake line from the right-front wheel to reach the tee using left over brake line from what I had cut. I had to buy two adapters: a male to go in the tee and a female to hook up on the other end of the line. Flared it and installed it.

NOW, there is a very fancy and cool looking way of doing basically the same thing I did but using pre-built SS lines from JEGS. The reason I didn't go that route is because I was not going to pay $350.00 for the hoses and fittings. Looks cooler but will leave a dent on your wallet.

Total money I spent: 20 bux - 10 for the two tees and 10 for the fittings I needed to make the extension for the front-right wheel. (I had the flaring and bending tools already, so I am not counting that).

Additionally, since I am re-doing my wiring harness I will be removing all wires going to the TRAC and ABS system as well as all the emissions related stuff.

One thing I am not sure about is what happens if I remove the TRAC TPS. I have no idea if the ECU would run in limp-mode if that sensor is unplugged - something I am currently researching as I am trying to eliminate as much wires as possible from the main engine harness.

If you know if removing the TRAC TPS triggers limp mode, please let me know.

dricacho

Can the ABS/TRAC be deleted while keeping the cruise control system intact?

oldManTan

yes, cruise control isn't involved at all, it's completely separate.

here's how mine look, horrible i know, but was too lazy to bend all those lines into place and make them look neat. maybe some day, probably not though

dricacho

Thanks. On the TRAC system, I'm assuming the 2nd TB stays but the TPS isn't connected? How about the TB cable? I wish there's a way to remove the 2nd TB and run a 45 degree silicone elbow from the 1st TB.

bigwhite

kidzik007, i run with my trac. tps sensor unplugged, mostly for the reason that I dont want the trac. involved. Has no effect on driveability. BTW thanks for the write-up, the more clarification I get on the subject of removal the more, I want to do it.

drammyboy

Just done this ABS delete.......fitted a normal servo/master cylinder and an electric vacuum pump etc

I would like more information on how to disable the ABS & VSC warning lights on the dash

What has to be done to sort this problem ?

Does removing the ABS relays, or module solve it

Any help appreciated.........my car is a sc430

Tallyhoe

Maybe running a resistor equivalent to the electrical resistance of both.. you may need to go over the electrical diagrams to verify.

drammyboy

Thanks but...

Just looking for someone who has done this modification
and has found a way to stop the ABS & VSC lights showing up on the dash.

Nuts and Bolts side is easy for me.....the electrickery side is not

Anyone have a step by step guide to solve this warning light problem ?

drammyboy

Any ideas on this problem?

ABS completely deleted from my SC430

Now a LS430 servo and master cylinder fitted and brakes lines plumbed up.


Engine off.......and the brake pedal is solid after bleeding
Engine on.....and the pedal goes to the floor.

I did fit a smaller Toyota Celica servo with a Jaguar Series 3 master cylinder
and had the same issue with the engine running


Brake pedal should go down a little after start up but not soft to the floor as if there is still air in the system.
Tried bleeding it several times but still no firm pedal with engine running

Anybody have a clue what has gone wrong.