Exact Motorsports RCA Bolt Failure!!!
02-07-09, 07:11 PM
#31
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torque specs... Exact vs OEM
The bolts are grade 12.9, these are the best grade bolts in the market, the torque spec is 120 ft lb. Make sure don't over torque them, you may snap them, but do not under torque also. Make sure torque them evenly, torque both bolts at 75 lb first, then torque them at 120 lb to tighten them. Do not torque one side all the way, then the other!
So my question is why are you telling us to use 120ft-lbs? Is it because the bolts are different? or because they are longer? or what?
Please respond to this post in a clear and definitive manner so that every one knows why we need to follow your specs and NOT the factory specs...
02-07-09, 07:15 PM
#32
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just the one bolt... the one that is closest to the passenger door or the rear of the car as a point of reference. The strange thing is that I could not find the bolt... This happened in my drive way... so you would expect the bolt to fall down somewhere around there... but I couldn't find it...
02-07-09, 11:51 PM
#33
I'd like an answer too. Just because they're 12.9 grade bolts, doesn't mean you should up the spec by 37lbs, especially since 120 is about the limits of these bolts already. Coupled that with tension due to the weight of the car, you're really stressing the bolts. Now there are lots of people who haven't had problems, but I wouldn't bet on it.
The factory bolts are only grade 10.9 and requires 83ftlbs. Adding an inch in length to the bolts and then upping the grade to 12.9 does not warrant an extra 37ftlbs. That is A LOT of extra torque
The factory bolts are only grade 10.9 and requires 83ftlbs. Adding an inch in length to the bolts and then upping the grade to 12.9 does not warrant an extra 37ftlbs. That is A LOT of extra torque
02-08-09, 12:57 AM
#34
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I'd like an answer too. Just because they're 12.9 grade bolts, doesn't mean you should up the spec by 37lbs, especially since 120 is about the limits of these bolts already. Coupled that with tension due to the weight of the car, you're really stressing the bolts. Now there are lots of people who haven't had problems, but I wouldn't bet on it.
The factory bolts are only grade 10.9 and requires 83ftlbs. Adding an inch in length to the bolts and then upping the grade to 12.9 does not warrant an extra 37ftlbs. That is A LOT of extra torque
The factory bolts are only grade 10.9 and requires 83ftlbs. Adding an inch in length to the bolts and then upping the grade to 12.9 does not warrant an extra 37ftlbs. That is A LOT of extra torque
Also, does anyone know the length of the Exact bolts (less the head) in milimeters?
Pete
02-08-09, 11:21 AM
#36
just the one bolt... the one that is closest to the passenger door or the rear of the car as a point of reference. The strange thing is that I could not find the bolt... This happened in my drive way... so you would expect the bolt to fall down somewhere around there... but I couldn't find it...
At that much force working on it...I wouldn't expect it to be near by. It probably bounced off to outerspace.
I listed a link previously. measure the bolt before it's installed and then measure the bolt after spec. If there is any slight difference in the measurement...you are compromised. Btw, there are/exist defective bolts too.
Last edited by sam430; 02-08-09 at 07:51 PM.
02-10-09, 12:37 AM
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Hmmmm...
OEM bolt length is 34.5 mm + 30 mm RCA = 64.5 mm (minimum new bolt length).
A 70 mm bolt without any washers is too long. Im thinking 70 mm bolt with a few mm of washers is ideal.
OEM bolt length is 34.5 mm + 30 mm RCA = 64.5 mm (minimum new bolt length).
A 70 mm bolt without any washers is too long. Im thinking 70 mm bolt with a few mm of washers is ideal.
Last edited by PHML; 03-05-12 at 07:57 PM.
02-10-09, 10:14 AM
#41
It has to be exact length for one of the side...if the measurement is correct, one of the bolt must use a 7/16 inch washer or two. The other bolt may not need washer but it's recommended. Use steel washer or something close to keep the torque in check. I think the metal washers will fatigue so re-torque it once in a while or when you get a chance.
Last edited by sam430; 02-10-09 at 11:19 AM.
02-10-09, 10:44 AM
#42
just the one bolt... the one that is closest to the passenger door or the rear of the car as a point of reference. The strange thing is that I could not find the bolt... This happened in my drive way... so you would expect the bolt to fall down somewhere around there... but I couldn't find it...
02-14-09, 08:37 PM
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I installed the new bolts and torqued them down to 100ft-pounds for now... I really need an explanation as to why Exact is saying to put them at 120ft-lbs!!!! Going to test car which has been down for 2 weeks tonight!!!
02-14-09, 10:15 PM
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It has to be exact length for one of the side...if the measurement is correct, one of the bolt must use a 7/16 inch washer or two. The other bolt may not need washer but it's recommended. Use steel washer or something close to keep the torque in check. I think the metal washers will fatigue so re-torque it once in a while or when you get a chance.
Even though you can see the tip of the bolt for the door side...I pretty sure the opening does NOT allow the bolt to pass-through.
I agree. With the long bolts (without washers) and over-torqued...even the highest grade bolts (12.9) will snap when topped off.