In the trunk or in the fender wells?
08-28-08, 04:54 AM
#1
In the trunk or in the fender wells?
Some people mount their valves in there trunk all together and some mount them next to their bags at each wheel... what are the benefits of both. Secondly, having them in the trunk, how much does it silence the sound from the outside? Thanks for you thoughts....
08-28-08, 10:32 PM
#3
Well I have all my valves in the spare wheel area and you can still hear it. It isn't loud but enough to easily hear it. About the placing them in the fenders, I think that is mostly because they have no other place to put them and because they will be a lot louder. Of course, if you always have the option of quieting them down.
08-29-08, 12:37 AM
#4
I like the idea of them in the trunk, but maintenance might be a BEACH since everything will be covered by too much audio equipment :P (just though about that though) However, quiet is sexy IMO 
(just thought of that too) I think I just made my decision...
(just thought of that too) I think I just made my decision...
08-29-08, 09:37 AM
#5
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I don't know how much of a difference it makes from valves mounted on the tank to valves mounted right next to the bag itself. I've read though, the closer the valve is to the bag the faster response you will get.
08-29-08, 04:27 PM
#6
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08-30-08, 12:33 AM
#10
Yea, 1/2" is the way I'm going.. HOWEVER, I'd like to have the option of being able to drop it slowly without pulsing the switch. Is that possible? let me rephrase. Is it possible to regulate the dump valve, have it go fast when I want and slow when I want? (does that make sense?)
08-30-08, 03:01 PM
#11
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I think you can if you want to run 2 sets of dump valves. Basically running 3 valves per bag (1 fill valve and 2 dump valves). Say 1 dump valve being 1/2" to straight dump and another say 3/8" for that slow easy drop.
I have my dump valve being 1/2" with a 3/8 or I think it's actually 1/4" elbow. I don't have to purge the switch and it drops steady and smooth. Always have the functionality to change up the elbow size or take it out all together for a faster dump.
I have my dump valve being 1/2" with a 3/8 or I think it's actually 1/4" elbow. I don't have to purge the switch and it drops steady and smooth. Always have the functionality to change up the elbow size or take it out all together for a faster dump.
08-30-08, 04:37 PM
#12
I think you can if you want to run 2 sets of dump valves. Basically running 3 valves per bag (1 fill valve and 2 dump valves). Say 1 dump valve being 1/2" to straight dump and another say 3/8" for that slow easy drop.
I have my dump valve being 1/2" with a 3/8 or I think it's actually 1/4" elbow. I don't have to purge the switch and it drops steady and smooth. Always have the functionality to change up the elbow size or take it out all together for a faster dump.
I have my dump valve being 1/2" with a 3/8 or I think it's actually 1/4" elbow. I don't have to purge the switch and it drops steady and smooth. Always have the functionality to change up the elbow size or take it out all together for a faster dump.
08-30-08, 04:47 PM
#13
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Is this a DIY install or a shop?
If DIY and your only ride consider the below. Courtesy of eight08customs on VSC.
Some advice if its your first time installing air.. learn as much as you can. stuffing everything in to one day and rushing will only take you longer and more likely make mistakes.
I seen many shop install air runer kit in one day 2 day tops.. but these guys prob been doing it for so long so they can do it with there eyes closed.. lol
I myself if a friend asks me to install i tell them if they can deal with me taking weeks than I'll help them out. i'm in no rush to install air in one day. I rather do it right once rather to have a friend come back to me in a day saying somethng went worng in which take more time to fix..
First make sure you have everything in your kit before you start. missing parts can be a *****..
1. Take your time!! It can get fustrating when your pressed for time. Normally give your self at least 2 days min.
2 I know alot of people might not have a second car but if you have acess to one thats a plus!
3 Plan your install.. IF you dont have a second car, I would suggest you do the thing that will keep your car drivable. Just do one section day by day...
Day 1...Plot where all the tanks valves comp etc.. will go install if you have time and are up to it. "Except suspention parts"
Day 2...do all the wireing/electrical next (test run to see if everything is in working order before you go to the next step test switches to make sure the right vavles are working and make sure compressor turns on and off)
Day 3...Run all the hoses (if you have time you can do this step in day 2)(Also make sure you make hoses longer than normal so you have enough hose its easier to makae the hose short if its to long)
Day 4...Install all suspension parts and connect hoses (make sure hoses are not rubbing anything and if the hoses has move make sure it has enough play in it)
last step test system check for leaks..
Some tips
replace all those press in hose fittings with compression fittings.. working in the heavy truck industry those fitting are easy to use but dont last becuase there is a o ring inside of it that wears out.
Teflon tape works fine but I like to use combined with teflon tape is a paste type teflon made by Jomar Seal Industrial Thread sealant compound
FINE WINE TAKES TIME!
hope this helps
If DIY and your only ride consider the below. Courtesy of eight08customs on VSC.
Some advice if its your first time installing air.. learn as much as you can. stuffing everything in to one day and rushing will only take you longer and more likely make mistakes.
I seen many shop install air runer kit in one day 2 day tops.. but these guys prob been doing it for so long so they can do it with there eyes closed.. lol
I myself if a friend asks me to install i tell them if they can deal with me taking weeks than I'll help them out. i'm in no rush to install air in one day. I rather do it right once rather to have a friend come back to me in a day saying somethng went worng in which take more time to fix..
First make sure you have everything in your kit before you start. missing parts can be a *****..
1. Take your time!! It can get fustrating when your pressed for time. Normally give your self at least 2 days min.
2 I know alot of people might not have a second car but if you have acess to one thats a plus!
3 Plan your install.. IF you dont have a second car, I would suggest you do the thing that will keep your car drivable. Just do one section day by day...
Day 1...Plot where all the tanks valves comp etc.. will go install if you have time and are up to it. "Except suspention parts"
Day 2...do all the wireing/electrical next (test run to see if everything is in working order before you go to the next step test switches to make sure the right vavles are working and make sure compressor turns on and off)
Day 3...Run all the hoses (if you have time you can do this step in day 2)(Also make sure you make hoses longer than normal so you have enough hose its easier to makae the hose short if its to long)
Day 4...Install all suspension parts and connect hoses (make sure hoses are not rubbing anything and if the hoses has move make sure it has enough play in it)
last step test system check for leaks..
Some tips
replace all those press in hose fittings with compression fittings.. working in the heavy truck industry those fitting are easy to use but dont last becuase there is a o ring inside of it that wears out.
Teflon tape works fine but I like to use combined with teflon tape is a paste type teflon made by Jomar Seal Industrial Thread sealant compound
FINE WINE TAKES TIME!
hope this helps
08-30-08, 04:57 PM
#14
Depending on a certain persons price. This will be a do it yourself project HOWEVER, its no my first! 
but every car is different and I would think there may be a place on the gs where its easier to run the lines through. I heard someone say something about running them through the rocker panel? or sideskirt or something? again, just looking for the most logial place to run them. how much DO they charge for labor in a bag job anyways? I dont like ANYONE touching my cars for ANYTHING! , but I've been getting lazy lately, plus you cant really take pride in someone elses work!
but every car is different and I would think there may be a place on the gs where its easier to run the lines through. I heard someone say something about running them through the rocker panel? or sideskirt or something? again, just looking for the most logial place to run them. how much DO they charge for labor in a bag job anyways? I dont like ANYONE touching my cars for ANYTHING! , but I've been getting lazy lately, plus you cant really take pride in someone elses work!
Last edited by Mr Jokster; 08-30-08 at 05:01 PM.
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