BCR Coilover Installation Help(AWD)
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
BCR Coilover Installation Help(AWD)
Hey guys,
been attempting to install my new coilovers DIY by following the directions in this video
and things were coming along until I got stuck trying to get the c-bracket out of the lower control arm.
In this picture, there is this piece(highlighted in red) that is behind the 22mm nut which isn't mentioned in the video tutorial(3:40 - 4:09) about what it is or how to remove it. It seems fixed but I'm not sure how to proceed from here.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
been attempting to install my new coilovers DIY by following the directions in this video
In this picture, there is this piece(highlighted in red) that is behind the 22mm nut which isn't mentioned in the video tutorial(3:40 - 4:09) about what it is or how to remove it. It seems fixed but I'm not sure how to proceed from here.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
Last edited by Aspect; 07-20-16 at 04:22 PM.
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
I hit it a couple of times with a hammer but didn't budge. Not sure what it was or if it's threaded on or not so I didn't keep whacking it. I tried prying at it with no avail
#6
Moderator
iTrader: (10)
I've not worked on an AWD version of the 2IS, so I'm only guessing here. But that centric appears to slide off of that bolt; notice the seam cut into the bolt there? I'm thinking it should just slide off, but if probably held in place by rust right now. Get a screwdriver that you don't mind messing up, and get it in-between the side the LCA and the back of that centric "tab" and hammer away. In my mind, it should separate, and you should then be able to slide it off of that bolt.
Also, I'd recommend NOT placing the jack directly under the place where you are working. The additional pressure placed on that specific area could help bind up that bolt in the LCA.
Good luck!
Also, I'd recommend NOT placing the jack directly under the place where you are working. The additional pressure placed on that specific area could help bind up that bolt in the LCA.
Good luck!
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
I've not worked on an AWD version of the 2IS, so I'm only guessing here. But that centric appears to slide off of that bolt; notice the seam cut into the bolt there? I'm thinking it should just slide off, but if probably held in place by rust right now. Get a screwdriver that you don't mind messing up, and get it in-between the side the LCA and the back of that centric "tab" and hammer away. In my mind, it should separate, and you should then be able to slide it off of that bolt.
Also, I'd recommend NOT placing the jack directly under the place where you are working. The additional pressure placed on that specific area could help bind up that bolt in the LCA.
Good luck!
Also, I'd recommend NOT placing the jack directly under the place where you are working. The additional pressure placed on that specific area could help bind up that bolt in the LCA.
Good luck!
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#8
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks everyone for the tips. After some penetrating oil and prying away with various flat heads and hammering it wiggled off. Also seems like it has a notch to sit in the groove of the bolt so there wasn't any reason to mark the location. After getting it off I ended up running into another problem - the ball joint I separated just two days ago and put back together wouldn't separate again using the pickle fork no matter what. End of day 4 of installation attempts. Hopefully I'll learn enough from this one corner to do the rest much easier and to think I have to do this 2 times a year in the future - putting back old suspension for winter and storing the coilovers and reverse next spring
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
haha at the very least anyways. Got a tie rod puller on the way for my round 5 attempt on Wednesday. Pickle fork destroyed the dust boot of the upper control arm so I had to buy new dust boots so I'm definitely not using this tool again... convincing myself it'll be worth it in the end
#11
Moderator
iTrader: (10)
^The key with the ball joint on the UCA is unscrewing the nut until it is flush with the bottom of the ball joint stud and then you hit the hell out of that flush surface of that nut. I've broken loose ALL of my ball joints using this method, even though I have a pickler fork.
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
^The key with the ball joint on the UCA is unscrewing the nut until it is flush with the bottom of the ball joint stud and then you hit the hell out of that flush surface of that nut. I've broken loose ALL of my ball joints using this method, even though I have a pickler fork.
#14
Didn't read all the posts, so I apologize if this has already been stated.
I ran into this problem on my passenger side. My driver's side I was able to hit with a mallet and it came out easily. That bolt is stuck to the bushing it goes through. You'd have to use a induction heater and risk melting the bushing. OR, you can do what I did...
- Remove 19mm nut from under the strut
- Use chisel and punch it in the crack between the strut and the C-arm (for lack of a better name)
- Pull the C-arm towards you until you free the strut
I ran into this problem on my passenger side. My driver's side I was able to hit with a mallet and it came out easily. That bolt is stuck to the bushing it goes through. You'd have to use a induction heater and risk melting the bushing. OR, you can do what I did...
- Remove 19mm nut from under the strut
- Use chisel and punch it in the crack between the strut and the C-arm (for lack of a better name)
- Pull the C-arm towards you until you free the strut
#15
Racer
Thread Starter
Didn't read all the posts, so I apologize if this has already been stated.
I ran into this problem on my passenger side. My driver's side I was able to hit with a mallet and it came out easily. That bolt is stuck to the bushing it goes through. You'd have to use a induction heater and risk melting the bushing. OR, you can do what I did...
- Remove 19mm nut from under the strut
- Use chisel and punch it in the crack between the strut and the C-arm (for lack of a better name)
- Pull the C-arm towards you until you free the strut
I ran into this problem on my passenger side. My driver's side I was able to hit with a mallet and it came out easily. That bolt is stuck to the bushing it goes through. You'd have to use a induction heater and risk melting the bushing. OR, you can do what I did...
- Remove 19mm nut from under the strut
- Use chisel and punch it in the crack between the strut and the C-arm (for lack of a better name)
- Pull the C-arm towards you until you free the strut