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Need a part for stock intake, please help!

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Old Jan 23, 2026 | 09:56 AM
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Exclamation Need a part for stock intake, please help!

Hey everyone, I have an 08 ISF 17705-38110 part which is the box upstream from the intake tube but after the air filter (its where the MAF plugs into) has a crease/crack in it and I think it is throwing a MAF CEL. I know there must be hundreds of people who have installed an intake system on their ISF and have this part in good shape laying in their garage somewhere. The replacement part is $500 and I don't want to spend that or get an aftermarket intake at this time. I have also seen a crease/crack in many others on this part. Please comment, message me or email me if you can help. I am in Idaho, but I can pay for shipping and the part if someone has it out of state.
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Old Jan 24, 2026 | 08:09 AM
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This is a very good resource for parts- Part Souq
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Old Jan 25, 2026 | 02:44 AM
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Some pictures would help but I'm pretty sure I know what you're talking about. It probably collapsed or even cracked after MAF, just where the clamp for intake hose sits. I am in a same boat right now and thinking how to fix it. It's apparently very common even though you can't find much about it online. People say it's due to overtightening of clamp but I was always super careful with that. Anything less tight and it could leak so not really good either way. My engine bay see very high temps though (super boiling summers and daily driving through traffic in Tokyo)


I've heated it up and then reshaped back. When doing so, it split a bit so I welded / filled the gap. When it cooled down it was as strong as rest of the pipe and it lasted for little over a year but now I noticed it collapsed again. I am thinking now to reinforce it with steel mesh (I usually use it when welding plastic and it becomes very strong) but it would be quite a hassle to make it smooth so the hose sits nice on the pipe.

All I know is, there is no way on earth I would be paying 500$ for piece of plastic even if it didn't had issues, and not to mention with such flaw... Yeah, I don't care what anyone says, it's a design flaw. Never had airbox breaking on any of 25+ cars I've owned, no matter how many gazzilion kilometers they had or how abused they were. Airbox should outlast entire car by 3x.


Good luck. I will report back if I manage to fix it a bit better but for now I think I will reshape it / reweld again, tighten clamp with even less force and then wrap connection with tape to ensure no vacuum leak. P.s if you have TOM's filter in there, just throw it in the trash .

Last edited by c111jp; Jan 25, 2026 at 02:46 AM.
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Old Jan 25, 2026 | 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by c111jp
Some pictures would help but I'm pretty sure I know what you're talking about. It probably collapsed or even cracked after MAF, just where the clamp for intake hose sits. I am in a same boat right now and thinking how to fix it. It's apparently very common even though you can't find much about it online. People say it's due to overtightening of clamp but I was always super careful with that. Anything less tight and it could leak so not really good either way. My engine bay see very high temps though (super boiling summers and daily driving through traffic in Tokyo)


I've heated it up and then reshaped back. When doing so, it split a bit so I welded / filled the gap. When it cooled down it was as strong as rest of the pipe and it lasted for little over a year but now I noticed it collapsed again. I am thinking now to reinforce it with steel mesh (I usually use it when welding plastic and it becomes very strong) but it would be quite a hassle to make it smooth so the hose sits nice on the pipe.

All I know is, there is no way on earth I would be paying 500$ for piece of plastic even if it didn't had issues, and not to mention with such flaw... Yeah, I don't care what anyone says, it's a design flaw. Never had airbox breaking on any of 25+ cars I've owned, no matter how many gazzilion kilometers they had or how abused they were. Airbox should outlast entire car by 3x.


Good luck. I will report back if I manage to fix it a bit better but for now I think I will reshape it / reweld again, tighten clamp with even less force and then wrap connection with tape to ensure no vacuum leak. P.s if you have TOM's filter in there, just throw it in the trash .
Mine had the same crease. I am certain it was from overtightening. I heated it with a 700C heat gun and reshaped it without issue. I have tightened the clamp just enough to keep the tube connected and it has been working fine ever since. Is it a great design? No, not really. Can it be made to work if you are judicious applying force on the clamp? Yes indeed.

A plastic repair with stainless screen will work, but unlike other repairs done this way, the screen won't add much strength from being compressed. The ideal solution would be a full circumference 1.5mm thick metal ring around the clamp area to slide the plastic tube over the metal ring and tighten. That would be much more difficult to compress and fold the inside tube.
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Old Jan 26, 2026 | 11:49 AM
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Hey all, looking over everything I was getting a P0101 code but when I went to pull the MAF I noticed it was aftermarket and made in china. Last year I pulled a MAF sensor from I believe an IS 250 from the junk yard because I thought it might fit and wanted a spare. I situated the piping over the crack to where I don't think it will leak and replaced the MAF with the Denso Toyota one. CEL has since not come back. I think now it might have been the sensor the whole time. STICK TO OEM!
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Old Jan 27, 2026 | 06:32 PM
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They always crack when you tighten too hard



get PVC pipe that’s a bit smaller than the tube and fit it where it’s cracked. Worked for me
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Old Jan 28, 2026 | 01:21 AM
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Hey, I am based in NZ but I'll have a look at what I've got. I'm sure I still have all the factory airbox/pipe etc.
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