Front Brake Pads Replacement
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
Front Brake Pads Replacement
Just replaced my front brake pads today on my 2007 SC with 96,000 miles. Pads cost $64.95 from Lexus and the whole process took me one hour. This is an amazingly easy at home maintenance task. I am a believer that rotors should never be turned unless they need to and mine did not. I am opposed to dealers taking life off of rotors just because new pads are installed.
I had brought the car into the dealer around 40,000 miles for squeaky brakes and they proceeded to replace the pads at that time and turn the rotors without my approval under warranty. I would never have approved the rotor turning had I been given the opportunity to deny the remediation.
My second set of front pads lasted 56,000 miles and rear pads were replaced at 68,000 miles. On my previous 1993 SC400, I got 50,000 miles from rear pads consistently and 128,000 from front pads. Amazing about the life of the front pads. Rotors were not turned at 128,000 and were never turned as long as I owned the car from the 30 miles on the car at delivery to the selling mileage of 222,000.
I had brought the car into the dealer around 40,000 miles for squeaky brakes and they proceeded to replace the pads at that time and turn the rotors without my approval under warranty. I would never have approved the rotor turning had I been given the opportunity to deny the remediation.
My second set of front pads lasted 56,000 miles and rear pads were replaced at 68,000 miles. On my previous 1993 SC400, I got 50,000 miles from rear pads consistently and 128,000 from front pads. Amazing about the life of the front pads. Rotors were not turned at 128,000 and were never turned as long as I owned the car from the 30 miles on the car at delivery to the selling mileage of 222,000.
#3
Pole Position
iTrader: (1)
I would really like to see an in depth DIY write up on replacing the front and rear pads. I would like to attempt changing mine when the weather improves and around the time I will need to swap to summer wheels. Any pros out there willing to do a set by step guide? Much thanks in advance.
#4
Racer
iTrader: (1)
I would really like to see an in depth DIY write up on replacing the front and rear pads. I would like to attempt changing mine when the weather improves and around the time I will need to swap to summer wheels. Any pros out there willing to do a set by step guide? Much thanks in advance.
#5
Lexus Test Driver
I would really like to see an in depth DIY write up on replacing the front and rear pads. I would like to attempt changing mine when the weather improves and around the time I will need to swap to summer wheels. Any pros out there willing to do a set by step guide? Much thanks in advance.
#7
I've always felt that if the rotors need resurfacing, they just should be replaced (at least for the fronts, where 70% of the braking forces are developed). I used my last change to get into high-quality slotted rotors and have been very pleased.
They rears are a little more tricky than the fronts, but I wouldn't say that they are extra-ordinarily difficult (hardest part was getting the spring tensioners back in place properly (check the threads about rear brakes - take pics of those parts in place before you pull them apart).
They rears are a little more tricky than the fronts, but I wouldn't say that they are extra-ordinarily difficult (hardest part was getting the spring tensioners back in place properly (check the threads about rear brakes - take pics of those parts in place before you pull them apart).
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#8
Lexus Test Driver
Those rear brake springs were a total pain in the butt. However still quite doable. Since the rotors are easy to take off on the sc430, using the two 8mm holes, why not just replace rotors if at all in question? They are not that expensive these days and there are lots and lots of options..
#9
I agree completely, buy new rotors - I don't think that I've resurfaced a rotor in years.
And yes, if you are pulling rotors use those 8mm threaded holes to pop off the rotor - or you'll be beating on those rotors till you are blue.
And yes, if you are pulling rotors use those 8mm threaded holes to pop off the rotor - or you'll be beating on those rotors till you are blue.
#10
Lead Lap
I believe that there have been a couple of DYIs over the years on brake replacement on the forum, including LexBrett's.
#11
Driver School Candidate
I will have to disagree. That used to be true but now just try to find replacement rotors that aren't made in China and that's no Hattori Hanzō steel...
If there is enough metal left on the rotor to have it resurfaced, I recommend using Japanese steel
If there is enough metal left on the rotor to have it resurfaced, I recommend using Japanese steel
I've always felt that if the rotors need resurfacing, they just should be replaced (at least for the fronts, where 70% of the braking forces are developed). I used my last change to get into high-quality slotted rotors and have been very pleased.
They rears are a little more tricky than the fronts, but I wouldn't say that they are extra-ordinarily difficult (hardest part was getting the spring tensioners back in place properly (check the threads about rear brakes - take pics of those parts in place before you pull them apart).
They rears are a little more tricky than the fronts, but I wouldn't say that they are extra-ordinarily difficult (hardest part was getting the spring tensioners back in place properly (check the threads about rear brakes - take pics of those parts in place before you pull them apart).
#12
I did my front brakes a while back and I replaced the rotors and started using the ceramic pads. What a difference, much less brake dust with no change in stopping power. Quiet too. I used the premium rotors sold by Advanced Auto, they look OK.
So far so good. No squeaks.
So far so good. No squeaks.
#13
Well yes, don't go out and slap just any cheap rotor on your car! I grew up in the home of a blacksmith and I get metallurgy and machining. Be selective, and don't be cheap. But, there are some good rotors out there (both materials and precision of machining).
If you are unsure, by all means get the rotors machined (observe recommended Lexus tolerances for thickness, runout, etc).
If you are unsure, by all means get the rotors machined (observe recommended Lexus tolerances for thickness, runout, etc).
#14
I did my front brakes a while back and I replaced the rotors and started using the ceramic pads. What a difference, much less brake dust with no change in stopping power. Quiet too. I used the premium rotors sold by Advanced Auto, they look OK.
So far so good. No squeaks.
So far so good. No squeaks.
Wonder if I should take heed and switch back next time around. Brake dust will be a big issue for me cos of my slotted front rotors. And my new wheels go on in about a week so the dust will be even more visible on the front wheels' mirror cut face ...
#15
Racer
iTrader: (1)
Hey Mandy, which ceramics did you use ? I used to like Centric Posi Quiet ceramics and used them on the RL and now on the SC. But after 20k or so miles, I am getting some potential rotor warpage or high spots. It happened with the RL too after installing Akebono (and after that Posi Quiet) ceramic pads on OEM rotors ... Love the stopping power but I wonder whether the ceramic pads just heat up the rotors too much ? Both my regular independent mechanics ( one in NJ and the one in Marietta) suggest OEM pads rather than after market ceramics ...
Wonder if I should take heed and switch back next time around. Brake dust will be a big issue for me cos of my slotted front rotors. And my new wheels go on in about a week so the dust will be even more visible on the front wheels' mirror cut face ...
Wonder if I should take heed and switch back next time around. Brake dust will be a big issue for me cos of my slotted front rotors. And my new wheels go on in about a week so the dust will be even more visible on the front wheels' mirror cut face ...