Hi, I'm not sure if this subject has been brought up before, but I haven't seen a thread on it yet. I drive an '05 sc430 and the steering wheel shakes at above 50mph when I lightly step on the brakes. I have recently had my brakes done and an alignment done as well as both rear shocks replaced. Before I go out and spend more money, does anyone know if something else could be going on?
Much appreciate the responses!!
Off the topic: I love SC's!!!! My bro has been driving a '92 SC400 and that beauty is still beautiful and going strong!
If it shakes in the front it's front rotors..
If it shakes in back when braking its the rear rotors
I just had this problem in my gs400... Solved
The shake is in your brakes, you have warped rotors. If you just had you brakes done find out if they machined your rotors. Most times when brakes are done they automatically machine the rotors but if they didn't and just threw on new pads they do need to be machined. Another alternative is to put new rotors on, there are lots of cross drilled to choose from, they have holes drilled in them for better cooling and resist warping much better. Hope this helps!
I agree with Mdpuff, I believe it's warped front rotors. I bought one of very first Ford Explorers made back in 1990/1991, fully loaded dark blue Eddie Bauer before anyone had even heard of one, let alone seen one on the road. Almost every time I had a front brake job with the rotors turned, I had shaking shortly afterward when braking. In this particular case Ford put lousy rotors on the first generation or first year explorers. On almost every brake job, I had to have the rotors replaced with maybe one exception or two. I became so tired of having to replace the rotors that I sometimes, rightly or wrongly, just replaced the pads and never had a problem. Also if I'm not mistaken, if you brake to hard right after a brake job, I believe that can also cause the rotors to warp. In summary, I'm in full agreement it's warped rotors.
Great thread. I appreciate this forum so much. I started to notice a shake in my steering wheel (pretty bad, makes my watch jingle to those next to me) when I even touch the brakes between 50 and 60 mph. It stops as soon as I release the brakes. I was worried it was something major. But I guess its just the rotors? 35k miles, never changed pads or rotors. I guess its time, even though the dealer hasn't said anything.
is 100% on the money. it is better to replace them, then have them cut.. cutting makes them heat up quicker less meat on the rotors. replace with a good set of rotors and remember a good set of brake pads.
02 Midnight Pine Pearl: Clear Corners Headlights Duel Action Flashers Clear Corners Clear Led Front and Rear Markers 18" Work Rims VMS Lugs Megan Mounts Swift Springs Bilstein Front and Rear Shocks Dr Gas Mufflers w/ X pipe+Dr Gas Tips TM Poly Upper and Lower Control Arm Bushings Poly Steering Bushings Front GS 28.6mm Solid Sway ISF Rear 17mm Sway Motorsport Tech Spacers Focal 1 Amp Polk Sub Dc Gold Speakers Trans. Pressure Mod Spare Tire Mod Sprintboost TRD Door Stabilizers Carbing STB
I think most common cause of warped rotors is over tightening of the lug nuts. All Lexus lug nuts, except for the SUV's, are tightened to 75 ft-lbs. Over tightening will warp the rotors and ruin them. I simply don't trust anyone to do it right. Most use impact tools with torque sticks, if you're lucky. Torque sticks are rated at different torques and the impact tool must be calibrated to work with them properly.
I have an inexpensive click-style torque wrench and re-torque my lug nuts after anyone touches my wheels such as a routine tire rotation. I think I've found them over tightened every time. Heck, I've hand over-tightened my lug nuts using the OEM lug wrench because 75 foot-pounds torque isn't very much.
When a shop does it and they ruin your rotors you'll be back for a brake job so they have little incentive to do any better.
To re-torque your lug nuts you don't have to raise your car. Just crack loose all five lug nuts on a given wheel and re-tighten them using a torque wrench. Work around the wheel tightening nuts on opposite sides in a star pattern. It takes about 5-10 minutes tops, to do all four. If your shop has really hammered them on you may need an extension for your lug wrench to get them loose - and just be glad that you didn't discover this on the side of the road!
I like to recheck them after a week of driving. When rechecking don't crack them loose before tightening; just test each lug and feel for the click of the torque wrench - done in two minutes.
(Oh, and my favorite rotors are Centric from Tire Rack. They look good and work very well. Just remember to degrease them before they go on - very important!
I bought rotors on eBay quite a few times. Got Power Slot slotted rotors for the SC430 recently - paid $90 per side for the fronts and they're performing very well. Much better than OEM though a little bit of noise.
Got slotted rotors for my RL a few years back from R1concepts in CA and there was a little shuddering at first due to the pads not being bedded down yet. But it all settled down and they bite well. I like them.
Been using Posi Quiet ceramic pads whenever I replace my OEM pads and they've been good too.
For the drilled slotted rotors, one thing to bear in mind is drilling can weaken the rotor compared with a solid one or one with slots but not cross drilled.
Also, for some of the lower priced rotors, do check if the hats are painted. If the hats are unpainted, they can rust and look pretty poorly after a while even though it may not affect the performance of the rotors.
Just a quick response, had the same problem and replaced the front discs and pads as they were worn, but vibration on light braking still there. Garage advised the pistons were sticking in one of the calipers, they noted this whilst changing the discs and had freed them off, but said they would probably stick again .... and they did. Replaced both front calipers and problem cured