Lexus SC300 Used Car Check List?
#1
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Lexus SC300 Used Car Check List?
Is there a Lexus SC300 Used Car Check List? In other words is there something’s that are known potential issues to make sure someone checks out thoroughly when going to look at one of these vehicles?
I have read enough to know about the back light issue on the instrument cluster. It is very odd and I have never had a car with this type of issue.
What else that someone should look for?
The car I am going to potentially look at is a 1998 SC300 with just over 90k miles. It is being sold by a guy who is selling his recently deceased father-in-laws car. He has looked and it does not appear there are any known service records, and they do not know where he was taking it to have it serviced. I called the local Lexus Dealership and the first 3-4 years he took it there, but then he stopped. I know the timing belt should be done at ~100k miles, what else would potentially need to be done? In the photos he has sent me the car looks incredible clean.
What is fair price for such a vehicle?
I have read enough to know about the back light issue on the instrument cluster. It is very odd and I have never had a car with this type of issue.
What else that someone should look for?
The car I am going to potentially look at is a 1998 SC300 with just over 90k miles. It is being sold by a guy who is selling his recently deceased father-in-laws car. He has looked and it does not appear there are any known service records, and they do not know where he was taking it to have it serviced. I called the local Lexus Dealership and the first 3-4 years he took it there, but then he stopped. I know the timing belt should be done at ~100k miles, what else would potentially need to be done? In the photos he has sent me the car looks incredible clean.
What is fair price for such a vehicle?
#2
Driver
iTrader: (2)
I cant speak for the mechanical ive had a 94 sc400 and haven't had my 92 sc300 which is 5spd long enough to give an opinion but the interiors are the similar.
Interior
1. Door Panels upper and lower tend to crack and are a major pain to repair and expensive to replace. Additionally the lower panels are extremely fragile and if yours don't show signs of cracking I would recommend taking off and reinforcing to prevent in future.
2. Locks / actuators. Actuators go bad and have to be replaced. see if when click lock button they both actually lock and unlock
3. Window regulators see how windows roll up / down
4. front middle a/c vents crack at corners but almost every one ive seen is this way.
5. plugged sunroof drain tubes. pull sunroof back and there are front drains in the corner and back drains in the back. take a bottle of water and pour in track and see if drains out behind front wheels and behind back wheels
6. a/c display will bleed / blackout
7. steering wheel is suppose to automatically tilt up and go in when car turned off but lot of times doesn't work due to a faulty gear but there is a diy to fix
Hope this helps
Interior
1. Door Panels upper and lower tend to crack and are a major pain to repair and expensive to replace. Additionally the lower panels are extremely fragile and if yours don't show signs of cracking I would recommend taking off and reinforcing to prevent in future.
2. Locks / actuators. Actuators go bad and have to be replaced. see if when click lock button they both actually lock and unlock
3. Window regulators see how windows roll up / down
4. front middle a/c vents crack at corners but almost every one ive seen is this way.
5. plugged sunroof drain tubes. pull sunroof back and there are front drains in the corner and back drains in the back. take a bottle of water and pour in track and see if drains out behind front wheels and behind back wheels
6. a/c display will bleed / blackout
7. steering wheel is suppose to automatically tilt up and go in when car turned off but lot of times doesn't work due to a faulty gear but there is a diy to fix
Hope this helps
#3
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Other potential areas to make sure I inspect carefully?
#4
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (6)
Inspect the fluids. Pay attention to transmission. Check steering at higher speeds. Ask if timing belt and water pump has been done. Ask for a cold engine to start. Drive with and without AC and heat at the temp extremes. Get under it and look for leaks and rust. Examine panels and frame for repairs. Try parking brake. Observe exhaust at startup. Try each switch/function 10 times. Turn dash lights up all the way and leave them that way. Try all keys, Check trunk for leaks. Get a Carfax. Enter VIN number at Mylexus.com to get full Lexus service records on the car.
Last edited by Studiogeek; 04-27-15 at 01:46 PM.
#5
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Inspect the fluids. Pay attention to transmission. Check steering at higher speeds. Ask if timing belt and water pump has been done. Ask for a cold engine to start. Drive with and without AC and heat at the temp extremes. Get under it and look for leaks and rust. Examine panels and frame for repairs. Try parking brake. Observe exhaust at startup. Try each switch/function 10 times. Turn dash lights up all the way and leave them that way. Try all keys, Check trunk for leaks. Get a Carfax.
- What am I looking for with the transmission? Rough shifting or something else?
- At high speeds what am I checking for with the steering?
- Is there a way to check if the timing belt has been changed? On Mazda Miata's if you see the Gates label then you can be pretty sure it has not been done. Anyway to determine an Original Water Pump?
- Is the with and without AC to test the AC or something else?
- Why the extreme heat test?
- If the trunk is leaking does it settle into the spare wheel well?
#6
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (6)
Thank you for helping with this. Can I ask for a little clarification?
- What am I looking for with the transmission? Rough shifting or something else?
Yes, anything not smooth, noises, strange behavior of any sort. Burnt, dark fluid - At high speeds what am I checking for with the steering?
Not tracking straight effortlessly, wandering, drifting, over/under steering, vibrations, bump steer, rear end behavior. - Is there a way to check if the timing belt has been changed? On Mazda Miata's if you see the Gates label then you can be pretty sure it has not been done. Anyway to determine an Original Water Pump?No way I know of except for an invoice or service records if it was done at Lexus.
- Is the with and without AC to test the AC or something else?
Mostly to make sure it works well and does not cause strange idle, stalling, overheating etc. - Why the extreme heat test?
To make sure heater control valve, blowers and heater core is working. - If the trunk is leaking does it settle into the spare wheel well?
Yes, sometimes it does. Take a peek and smell the trunk.
SG
#7
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (8)
Check for clunks from the suspension when coming to a complete stop from reverse and drive.
This is to make sure the ball joints on the suspension are in good shape, if it clunks from the front it could be lower control arms, or sway bar end link ball joints going bad. If the rear also the same parts could be bad.
Especially bouncy and noisy suspension could also be blown shocks.struts or loose connections/blown ball joints. Like SG said, the car should track straight without wandering/vibrating or making noise. Also if you take it above 40-50 you may hear a woo-woo-woo-woo noise, if so that means the wheel bearings are going bad. Also check for noises that only happen when breaking, or only happen when not on the brakes.
If you get the car off the ground you can check for control arm and tie rod issues by applying force at 9 and 3 o clock on the tire and 12 and 6 o clock, if there is excessive play then the ball joints are bad. Also check for leaks on the power steering pump, power steering lines, and from the dust boots on the steering rack over the inner tie rods.
This is to make sure the ball joints on the suspension are in good shape, if it clunks from the front it could be lower control arms, or sway bar end link ball joints going bad. If the rear also the same parts could be bad.
Especially bouncy and noisy suspension could also be blown shocks.struts or loose connections/blown ball joints. Like SG said, the car should track straight without wandering/vibrating or making noise. Also if you take it above 40-50 you may hear a woo-woo-woo-woo noise, if so that means the wheel bearings are going bad. Also check for noises that only happen when breaking, or only happen when not on the brakes.
If you get the car off the ground you can check for control arm and tie rod issues by applying force at 9 and 3 o clock on the tire and 12 and 6 o clock, if there is excessive play then the ball joints are bad. Also check for leaks on the power steering pump, power steering lines, and from the dust boots on the steering rack over the inner tie rods.
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#8
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Anyone want to help with a fair Price?
Thank you for everyone's inspection advice.
Now is anyone willing to offer potential fair pricing range for the car as I have described it? I have only seen photos, but it does look like it is impeccable condition.
Now is anyone willing to offer potential fair pricing range for the car as I have described it? I have only seen photos, but it does look like it is impeccable condition.
#9
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (6)
To me, 4K to 6K seems fair for that car. Emphasize that without service records, you will have to assume nothing is done and do everything the car needs. The timing belt and water pump is first. Your car is an "interference" engine and if the timing belt breaks, kiss that motor goodbye. You must stay on top of that repair in that car specifically. That's $600 to 1200 off the bat.
#10
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
To me, 4K to 6K seems fair for that car. Emphasize that without service records, you will have to assume nothing is done and do everything the car needs. The timing belt and water pump is first. Your car is an "interference" engine and if the timing belt breaks, kiss that motor goodbye. You must stay on top of that repair in that car specifically. That's $600 to 1200 off the bat.
I just did a little more searching and when they added the VVT-i it switched from being Non-Interference to Interference!
This changes everything for me. I was thinking, well even if the timing belt would break, at least I just need to get the car towed home and then commit to doing the timing belt, water pump, hoses and other belts. Now I realistically need to just assume I need to do all of that NOW.
Last edited by flash9; 04-28-15 at 08:39 AM.
#11
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
I talked with the seller today and he is willing to come down on his price some, but I am trying to figure out what parts really should be replaced when doing the timing belt, and what that will cost me?
- Timing Belt
- Timing Belt Tensioner - ?
- Water Pump - ?
- Camsaft Seals - ?
- Front Crackshaft Main Seal - ?
- Accessory belt - ?
- Coolant Hoses - ?
#12
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (6)
I talked with the seller today and he is willing to come down on his price some, but I am trying to figure out what parts really should be replaced when doing the timing belt, and what that will cost me?
- Timing Belt
- Timing Belt Tensioner - ?
- Water Pump - ?
- Camsaft Seals - ?
- Front Crackshaft Main Seal - ?
- Accessory belt - ?
- Coolant Hoses - ?
When was the last tune up? Can you see any seeping from valve cover gaskets?
#13
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
I hope the see the car this weekend, so what would "seeping from valve cover gasket" represent?
#14
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (6)
Thanks - So from a quality shop (non-dealer) what would this approximately set me back?
Hmmmm, I have yet to do it on my 300 but it costs at least a grand for a 400 usually. I would get a dealer quote for each job. It holds weight and prices are high as they get.
I hope the see the car this weekend, so what would "seeping from valve cover gasket" represent?
It would represent the need to replace the gaskets
Hmmmm, I have yet to do it on my 300 but it costs at least a grand for a 400 usually. I would get a dealer quote for each job. It holds weight and prices are high as they get.
I hope the see the car this weekend, so what would "seeping from valve cover gasket" represent?
It would represent the need to replace the gaskets
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