Rcreegan

iTrader: (2)

i have talked to a few people about the easiest wiring of the 2jzgte in our sc300 cars. I heard that you could cut a hole in the fire wall and not have to lenghten the harness..... Has anyone completed this?

Kira X

iTrader: (24)

I've never heard of that before but I'm curious if that works. It would save a lot of money not having to send the harness off to have it extended.

CatManD3W

iTrader: (18)

Here you go....Gerry's thread is what I used to build my own harness for Aristo 2jzgte swap....I saved myself over $1k by doing it myself

Harness Build Thread...

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...made-easy.html

mikef

iTrader: (3)

the problem is that you have other wires on the passenger side to plug in to. the good news is that if you order a tweaked wire harness you can always sell it for what you paid for almost

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

I'd stick to the factory location. Even Tweak'd stays very close to it with their Mil-Spec plug option. Gerrb's thread is step-by-step extensive and chock full of reference pictures for nearly every stage of the lengthening and rewiring process. If I couldn't afford a made to order swap harness I'd follow his thread before hacking up irregular locations on the firewall.

Also, keep in mind where the A/C evaporator core, heater core, A/C ducts and wiring are all located behind the dashboard. Do you really want to risk breaking something back there? It does suck that we have to extend swap harnesses to fit our LHD cars but Toyota already did the hard work for us keeping everything behind the dash in a sorted location for service.

That firewall/dash is very over engineered too. It took a lot of looking to find a semi factory-like location just to run an aftermarket switch from my dash to the engine bay from the driver's side.

It's a good thought, OP, but in this case I do think you'll have a better experience just extending your harness yourself with some patient soldering and heat shield sleeving.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

I have looked into that idea extensively since I wanted a clean engine bay like this



This is where they made the firewall hole



The only way you can do what is pictured above is if you will not have AC / Heater. You will need to take out the blower assembly. It is against the wall inside ... no space what so ever. You can use that space to set your ECU... otherwise, space is the problem.

Inspecting one of my parts car , that area is directly behind that heater / blower assembly


here it is on the other parts car without that assembly anymore.. in yellow / white circle



If you look at the last picture ,you have a small window to bore a hole without removing AC/Heater Blower assembly ,...right side upper area of the accelerator pedal. Your next problem will be , you have no space to set your ECU and then you need to route the SC body plugs wiring going to the passenger kick panel.

You can make use of that area if you are going mil-spec so you still have to do wiring. But you have to make sure of your wiring is perfect first time cause it will be a pain working on that area.

That is the plan for my 3rd 2jzgte SC... mil-spec connector on that area so engine bay looks even cleaner. Other than that, as others have said, going through the stock wiring route is the easiest. If you are just going to route same wiring through a hole in that area, heat going inside the cabin through a hole will be another problem.