SC- 1st Gen (1992-2000)

gauge cluster removal tips?

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Old 07-31-14, 09:24 AM
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t2d2
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Default gauge cluster removal tips?

While replacing my last burnt out gauge needle, I realized I might just have enough space to pull the whole cluster out by removing the steering wheel surround. My telescoping motor doesn't work, so I've been limited in that respect.

I managed to get the left-most wiring plug disconnected from the back of the cluster, but I can't for the life of me make any progress on the center and right-most ones. I can't pull the cluster out far enough to work from the top down, so I'm trying to get to the top of them from the left side opening. I've tried all sorts of flat head screwdrivers and mini pry bars, and my fingers are just about raw from working on it. Any suggestions for how to attack this? Do you have to unwrap the wiring loom to create enough slack to pull it out further?

It's not the end of the world if I can't get it out, since I have all four needles working now. But, one of my lower left backlighting bulbs needs to be replaced or tightened -- it goes out occasionally and that section of the cover has to be tapped to get it back -- and I'd like to confirm that the bulb for my Low Fuel warning actually works, since I don't recall it coming on when the car ran out of gas before I purchased it. Now would be the time to do that, with everything accessible...if only I could get the cluster out to open up the back panel.
Old 07-31-14, 09:32 AM
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93oneuzfe
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Try getting a flathead and carefully pressing down on the release tabs. Worked for me.
Old 07-31-14, 09:36 AM
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Been trying exactly that for the past two hours. I've used at least five different lengths and sizes of flat heads, paint can opener, angled pry tool, pliers... On the center plug, I can get to the tab but can't get a very good angle on it, so I'm only pressing down from the side and not getting very good leverage. On the right side plug, the tab is recessed into the back cover of the cluster and pretty much impossible to get anything on.
Old 07-31-14, 10:10 AM
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iwannadie
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I ended up using a small pick that was a right angle style. Using the pick it was sharp enough to dig into the plastic clip while trying to press it down and small enough that once I got the clip loose enough it wasn't blocking anything. The right angle shape of the pick seemed to give me a good angle for leverage also. I tried a screw driver for a while too and it kept slipping off, that's when I tried the pick. Still sucks big time but may help your situation. Also try pushing the connections together, helps to loosen things up moving it back and forth. It feels wrong to get a little progress separating the connection and then press it back together but it seems to help loosen it up.

When I put the cluster back in I covered the connections in dielectric grease to keep them from sticking the next time, which worked.
Old 07-31-14, 11:54 AM
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t2d2
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I like the idea of using dialectric grease to make removal easier next time. It's amazing how snug some of these plugs become over the years. I've been trying to wiggle them, but hadn't thought to push them back in and worth back and forth (in/out) gradually, like when trying to unseize poorly threaded stuff.

Your right angle pick is similar to what I was trying to do with the paint can opener, but I couldn't come up with an angle that gave me anything to pry against...

Work has likely consumed the rest of my day, so I may not be able to get to it again until tomorrow.
Old 07-31-14, 08:06 PM
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jennie
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I think you can manually lower the steering column since it's gear driven. I vaguely remember seeing it in the service manual. Maybe someone with more expertise can chime in.
Old 07-31-14, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by jennie
I think you can manually lower the steering column since it's gear driven. I vaguely remember seeing it in the service manual. Maybe someone with more expertise can chime in.
That would be the tilt motor. I've already done the gear fix on it and it's working fine, although it did seem like the motor was burning out the last time it raised back up after disconnecting the battery. (I've thought about disconnecting the motor with it at the desired height so that doesn't happen again.) It's been fine since then, though, so maybe it just had a bad day or two.

Up until now, I couldn't get the cluster out because my telescoping motor is dead and I can't move the steering wheel closer to the seat. I spent a month inching it out a fraction of a millimeter at a time until it ran out of juice for a few hours... I finally realized today that removing the top portion of the steering wheel shroud frees up enough space to get the cluster out with the telescoping motor stalled at that point. I didn't expect the wiring plugs to be such a big issue, though.

Edit: I've yet to see an answer to the question of whether there's a way of manually moving the telescoping motor in/out.

I tried a bit more tonight and finally gave up and put everything back together. I cut some of the electrical tape off the wire loom in back to free up an inch or two of slack, which let me get to the center plug's tab a bit better. No amount of prying and force would get it to budge in the slightest, though, even after donning work gloves for as much grip as possible. I could tell I was pretty close to breaking stuff... (Which happens way too often on this car. Most of the clips hold together better than they hold up.) If I ever truly need to replace a bulb, I'm going to have to take it to a shop with whatever special tools Toyota deemed necessary for the job.
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