My 1j Swap
11-05-12, 10:48 AM
#32
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
PMed you with a question
11-05-12, 12:21 PM
#33
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Location: CA
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11-06-12, 06:52 AM
#34
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
ok so i did your trick and it work. it now will only start with the jey. but im still leaking a ton of fuel everywhere. ive put 2 copper washers on both sides of the fuel banjo bolt but it still sprays out of it. ive done a little research and some ppl are having issues with the fuel dampener. ive found a bypass kit from drifmotion but it says it for a cressida. would it work on a sc300 or no? and my old 2jzge was and auto tranny and i put a 1jz with a 5 spd, so do i need to worry about the neutral safety switch? i believe that i dont bc the car never had one but i figured that that manual ECU is still looking for the signal.
11-06-12, 08:13 AM
#35
1JZ Single SC400
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On my swap, I removed the factory SC400 rubber line from the metal feed line. I took the rubber line and spliced into it, removed the metal fitting and put in a new rubber fuel line. The metal bracket also has several slits in it, to assure once it goes in, it doesnt come out as easy, thus the reason for me having to splice the old rubber line to remove it. I couldnt pull it out by hand. I used new copper fittings on both side of the original bracket and it never leaked. I dont know if the 300 models have the same fitting, but mine has never leaked. Now I am wondering if they are different and if they can be used on either regardless? Maybe this is an idea to help correct your problem.
11-06-12, 09:40 PM
#36
the turbo boost outlet isn't a near 90 degree. so its also not a chaser swap either.
the oil pan sump is in the right place as well.
he got a soarer swap fo sho.
11-07-12, 03:00 PM
#37
ok so i did your trick and it work. it now will only start with the jey. but im still leaking a ton of fuel everywhere. ive put 2 copper washers on both sides of the fuel banjo bolt but it still sprays out of it. ive done a little research and some ppl are having issues with the fuel dampener. ive found a bypass kit from drifmotion but it says it for a cressida. would it work on a sc300 or no? and my old 2jzge was and auto tranny and i put a 1jz with a 5 spd, so do i need to worry about the neutral safety switch? i believe that i dont bc the car never had one but i figured that that manual ECU is still looking for the signal.
As for the NSS, that's up to personal preference. You can run it with it or without it. I run it with the NSS intact just to be on the safe side. As long as the ECU gets voltage to pin STA on the 1JZ ECU then it should not have a problem. does your ECU say A/T or M/T on it?
11-08-12, 03:40 PM
#40
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
UPDATE!!!!!!
ok so the fuel was leaking from the return line that was not hooked up. so i cut the old return line and ran a new hose to it and it worked. the car starts up and idles great. BUT i now have new issues
********1) the temp gauge works but its pointing straight up, we checked the coolant lines and the top line and back lines where hot but the bottom return coolant line was still cold, as if coolant wasnt cycling through. in the AM im gonna go and get a new thermostat and waterpump just to be safe
********2) the alternator is not charging the battery. now we have the alt hooked up to the alt plug that came with the engine not the clip that was from the old engine, the one that stayed in the car after the old 2j was pulled out. i know that you can swap the back plates out but i dont have the old one so any help on this issue would be great.
i will be getting some pics and a vid up within the next day or so
Thanks for all the help.
ok so the fuel was leaking from the return line that was not hooked up. so i cut the old return line and ran a new hose to it and it worked. the car starts up and idles great. BUT i now have new issues
********1) the temp gauge works but its pointing straight up, we checked the coolant lines and the top line and back lines where hot but the bottom return coolant line was still cold, as if coolant wasnt cycling through. in the AM im gonna go and get a new thermostat and waterpump just to be safe
********2) the alternator is not charging the battery. now we have the alt hooked up to the alt plug that came with the engine not the clip that was from the old engine, the one that stayed in the car after the old 2j was pulled out. i know that you can swap the back plates out but i dont have the old one so any help on this issue would be great.
i will be getting some pics and a vid up within the next day or so
Thanks for all the help.
11-08-12, 04:33 PM
#41
1JZ Single SC400
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UPDATE!!!!!!
ok so the fuel was leaking from the return line that was not hooked up. so i cut the old return line and ran a new hose to it and it worked. the car starts up and idles great. BUT i now have new issues
********1) the temp gauge works but its pointing straight up, we checked the coolant lines and the top line and back lines where hot but the bottom return coolant line was still cold, as if coolant wasnt cycling through. in the AM im gonna go and get a new thermostat and waterpump just to be safe
********2) the alternator is not charging the battery. now we have the alt hooked up to the alt plug that came with the engine not the clip that was from the old engine, the one that stayed in the car after the old 2j was pulled out. i know that you can swap the back plates out but i dont have the old one so any help on this issue would be great.
i will be getting some pics and a vid up within the next day or so
Thanks for all the help.
ok so the fuel was leaking from the return line that was not hooked up. so i cut the old return line and ran a new hose to it and it worked. the car starts up and idles great. BUT i now have new issues
********1) the temp gauge works but its pointing straight up, we checked the coolant lines and the top line and back lines where hot but the bottom return coolant line was still cold, as if coolant wasnt cycling through. in the AM im gonna go and get a new thermostat and waterpump just to be safe
********2) the alternator is not charging the battery. now we have the alt hooked up to the alt plug that came with the engine not the clip that was from the old engine, the one that stayed in the car after the old 2j was pulled out. i know that you can swap the back plates out but i dont have the old one so any help on this issue would be great.
i will be getting some pics and a vid up within the next day or so
Thanks for all the help.
11-25-12, 06:43 PM
#43
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
OK so Ive been driving the car for about 2 weeks now and there's a few things i cant figure out.
1). It is a complete pain in the *** to start in the mornings or if its been sitting for awhile. It will turn over but wont start, i have to turn the key on let it sit for a sec then hit it, repeat till it starts.
2) It idles funny. sometimes it will idle high around 1k or so but most of the time it will idle so low it doesn't even registrar on the tach. and if i have been driving it for a min and have to stop at a light i have to feather the gas or else it will die.
1). It is a complete pain in the *** to start in the mornings or if its been sitting for awhile. It will turn over but wont start, i have to turn the key on let it sit for a sec then hit it, repeat till it starts.
2) It idles funny. sometimes it will idle high around 1k or so but most of the time it will idle so low it doesn't even registrar on the tach. and if i have been driving it for a min and have to stop at a light i have to feather the gas or else it will die.
11-25-12, 06:46 PM
#44
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Oh yeah and if i give it to much throttle and will start to spit like its hitting a limiter. i dont think its for boost bc i could be in 3rd gear at 1500rpm and it will do it but if i back off and ease into it it will be ok for a sec. Basically i cant give it full throttle or take it to redline bc it wont
12-12-12, 09:52 AM
#45
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
UPDATE!!!!!!
i checked the plugs and they where not gaped right. 4 of them where at .40 and 2 where at .50 so i re-gaped them and it ran great for the rest of the day. after it sat overnight it started to run like the spark was blowing out again. i checked the coil packs and there are no cracks but i wrapped them anyways just to be safe. the only thing that i can think of is that its the Igniter Box.
i checked the plugs and they where not gaped right. 4 of them where at .40 and 2 where at .50 so i re-gaped them and it ran great for the rest of the day. after it sat overnight it started to run like the spark was blowing out again. i checked the coil packs and there are no cracks but i wrapped them anyways just to be safe. the only thing that i can think of is that its the Igniter Box.