88supramki

To be fair, engine cost is not the same. You can get non vvti 1js all day long for under 1500.

account2x

iTrader: (5)

^ Point is moot because you'll spend an even larger amount of money on other modifications. Body Kit, Rims, Suspension, BBK, Exhaust, Intercooler, Radiator, maintenance and so on.

1JZ = Crap I can't afford a 2JZ swap, haha I can save a few bucks with a 1JZ .......few months (or years) later..... damn it the difference in cost would have totally been worth the gains.

hovsc400

from what i have seen pricing is not the same the difference between the 1j and 2j i would use that money to do full maintenance on the motor ie...headgasket, water pump etc, so i could have a rock solid 1j with no worries of engine failure which would equal the price of me buying a 2j no maintenance and the possibility of engine failure because i broke the bank on buying the 2j which has an extra what 30 or 40 horse over a 1j.....like i said for economical purposes those of us who just want a little more but not break the bank 1j's are very practical....

The price difference between 1j's and 2j's are getting closer but are still very far apart in alot of cases $500 bucks may not be alot for some of you guys but for myself its alot and its the difference between doing maintenance or not doing it...

here go a couple motors i found 1j with auto tranny as low as $900, 2j with auto tranny as high as $2400 big difference

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOT...Q5fAccessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-T...Q5fAccessories

88supramki

Lol, that's your view on it.

My view and the view of others, 1J vvti is just fine for the power & purpose I need. No need to mod the driveshaft, little wiring, if you do vvti then you have updated motor that uses parts that are readily available.

It's not an elitist thing, don't turn it into one

soarer93

well since theis thread is full of opinions, heres mine:

Keep the 1uz - if you want more power.. 1) supercharge it Keep it Auto 2) sell the car to someone worthy of a sc400 before it gets butchered to hell, and buy another car.. soarer 1j or sc300.

VIP look? well sure whatever floats your boat i guess i can understand what you intend or mean.. but thats what an aristo/gs is for not an sc.

v8 is far more refined and smoother in delivery than the 1j/2j and if your planing on going ahead with your current vehicle.. isnt part of the look a CLEAN enginebay, non hacked wiring, no missing lights, bells whistles on dash etc etc.. not saying you cant get everything going but its gonna cost you so much more money..

Just go buy a soarer v8 with air suspension.. and that will set you so much further ahead than you already are, remember its not just the look its also the car how it rides, how it drives, how it is LOOKED AT by others.. since your going for the look i assume thats important. save this car from being destroyed. Not many swaps ever work out 100%

but again thats my opinion and ill not waiver

Klaus

iTrader: (1)

Interesting, that's possibly the cheapest I've ever seen a 1j! And I think the comparison was of a 1jz-vvti which I haven't seen for much less than $1800 and I've actually bought a clean 2j for $1800 shipped with trans

88supramki

It's all about timing. I found a place that regularly has 1j vvti motors & trans for 1400. The cheapest I found 2js for is 1800 w/out trans. Typically they are around 2100 at least.

luvmysc400

iTrader: (2)

I think both engines are great. But bang for buck goes to 1j you get a 5 speed & 5 speed ecu. With a 2j most likely it will be front sump & that slush box auto & auto ecu.2j will be cool if you keep it auto. & the price for a r154 alone sometimes is outrageous. I wish the 2j came with a 5 speed. If money wasn't an issue 2j/v160 all day.

account2x

iTrader: (5)

So not true. None of the maintenance will have any affect on engine failure. With both a water temp gauge and an oil level gauge you can catch either a water pump failure or large seal/gasket leak. Engine is non interference so the valves won''t hit the head if the belt snapes.

Second you speak as if you NEED to purchase an engine to swap. You don't.

Comparing those two engines
- 1JZ is missing the igniter. It's a bill something to replace it.
- 1JZ has 330cc injectors, 2JZ already comes with the 440cc good for BPU. A bill for the injectors and then two for the apexi safc. 2JZ-GE has 315cc injectors ,how smart does it seem to buy an engine with 15cc larger injectors?
- 1JZ has worse cam profiles than a regular 2JZ engine let along one with variable valve timing. Add another bill or two for the 2JZ cams with a regrind.
- Titan sells the .4L stroker kit for 14,000. Here you have .5L gain for for a 1/12th of the cost.
*1JZ 2.75in OD throttle, 2JZ 3in OD throttle.
*1JZ smaller turbros, 2.25in OD. 2JZ larger turbos, 2.50in OD.
* Head flow worse

* Lower flow in every category.

Just look at what you pay and what you get. 2JZ is a easily a better buy. What's worse is there is no such thing as 1JZ pricing. What I mean is that the cost for a water pump or a timing belt or an intercooler, it doesn't change between 1JZ or 2JZ. But because the 2JZ is a better platform the gains from an exhaust, intercooler piping or a boost control are higher. Like they say the proof is in the pudding so look at all the 1JZ with 2JZ injectors, 2JZ cams, 2JZ (1.5JZ) blocks and then of course single turbo.

88supramki

Those are all good points for your project and someone who has the same aspirations as you. I respect that.

I think what gets lost in this "age old debate" is that not everyone has the same goals and aspirations. Not everyone is shooting for 500hp daily driver, not everyone wants a manual either. Is the next topic going to be "oh you're dumb for staying auto".

It's no doubt that the 2j is an upgrade to the 1j, why else would Toyota have replaced the 1j in production. To those of us who want a reliable turbo motor that's a direct drop in and requires little to no modification to replace our 2j NA motor the 1j is a viable solution.

Now someone close the thread before the NA-T crowd comes in to say their option is the best jk

account2x

iTrader: (5)

Toyota never replaced the 1JZ with a 2JZ. 2JZ was always the "good" engine. 1JZ was the inferior engine for the lower end vehicles. Chaser v. Aristo, Soarer v. Supra.

1JZ and 2JZ can make the same peak horsepower but the difference will lie in the power's band and torque. 1JZ with it's revving ability is best suited to the track or drifting. 1JZ w/ R154 is a very good drift combo. 2JZ with it's larger displacement is more suited for off-boost daily driving or straight line performance.

Staying auto is further reason to go with a 2JZ because of the greater loss the auto transmission will have.

hovsc400

well which ever direction any of you guys goes i wish you all the best as we all have different aspirations for our vehicles just be sure to do it tastefully and keep the sc's alive

88supramki

Technically they did replace it in the Supra but that's just splitting hairs haha

account2x

iTrader: (5)

probably so they could upgrade it to the 2jz in the next generation.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Dude not everyone on here can afford the price tag of the 2jzgte and another $700 for maintenance parts.

"None of the maintenance will have any affect on engine failure" Yes you will lose you motor if oil pump fails, forget the stupid oil pressure gauge what if that fails on you too..then what happens
So your are saying their is no need of replacing the water pump and oil pump?

Some of the posts on this thread are full of crap..