2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
#2401
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (44)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Maryland /Germantown
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Damn.. Still going thru this obd2 mess?
I wish I have an obd2 car locally to play with im sure I will figure something out..
Ali- your idea may work, try it and report back!
I wish I have an obd2 car locally to play with im sure I will figure something out..
Ali- your idea may work, try it and report back!
#2402
Well Gave it a go today with some tinkering since I got home early.
here is basically why I can't try the stock cap.
I did however take the cap off and take a few photos. After the installation of everything back into place still got the same codes for 1 3 5 and the random misfire. Shut the car off (fully warm) and unplugged that greasy plug and started the car back up. At first it gave no codes which was great but I got out to listen to the exhaust and could still hear the misfires though faint. Moved the car back into its spot and checked again and got misfire codes on 3, 4 and 5 this time. The car is still idling a bit high, and you can definitely feel the difference in "snuggness" between the two caps.
I think i'm going to reset the tps tomorrow by voltage just to see if it has any effect on the misfires. Other than that I'm back to grasping at straws.
here is basically why I can't try the stock cap.
I did however take the cap off and take a few photos. After the installation of everything back into place still got the same codes for 1 3 5 and the random misfire. Shut the car off (fully warm) and unplugged that greasy plug and started the car back up. At first it gave no codes which was great but I got out to listen to the exhaust and could still hear the misfires though faint. Moved the car back into its spot and checked again and got misfire codes on 3, 4 and 5 this time. The car is still idling a bit high, and you can definitely feel the difference in "snuggness" between the two caps.
I think i'm going to reset the tps tomorrow by voltage just to see if it has any effect on the misfires. Other than that I'm back to grasping at straws.
#2404
So tell me if this sounds funky because I'm about to just get a new tps.
Set the voltage to .65, took off the throttle cable and backed the idle air screw all the way out before hand.
Checked the continuity to see if it was 1 or 0. Found out that it's still stuck on 1 which means the car wants to rev up and down because it thinks you are giving it gas. There is no way right now of getting the tps to zero at this voltage. I was under the impression you should pretty much be able to get it out of continuity at any point in the slot by adjusting the idle air screw?
Set the voltage to .65, took off the throttle cable and backed the idle air screw all the way out before hand.
Checked the continuity to see if it was 1 or 0. Found out that it's still stuck on 1 which means the car wants to rev up and down because it thinks you are giving it gas. There is no way right now of getting the tps to zero at this voltage. I was under the impression you should pretty much be able to get it out of continuity at any point in the slot by adjusting the idle air screw?
#2405
Pole Position
iTrader: (12)
So tell me if this sounds funky because I'm about to just get a new tps.
Set the voltage to .65, took off the throttle cable and backed the idle air screw all the way out before hand.
Checked the continuity to see if it was 1 or 0. Found out that it's still stuck on 1 which means the car wants to rev up and down because it thinks you are giving it gas. There is no way right now of getting the tps to zero at this voltage. I was under the impression you should pretty much be able to get it out of continuity at any point in the slot by adjusting the idle air screw?
Set the voltage to .65, took off the throttle cable and backed the idle air screw all the way out before hand.
Checked the continuity to see if it was 1 or 0. Found out that it's still stuck on 1 which means the car wants to rev up and down because it thinks you are giving it gas. There is no way right now of getting the tps to zero at this voltage. I was under the impression you should pretty much be able to get it out of continuity at any point in the slot by adjusting the idle air screw?
#2406
#2407
the plugs are gaped at right around .032, Some of my wires are about 6 months old and two others are new.
I'm more concerned about the tps than anything else currently.
And Azn I still need my distributor as I'm not running coil on plugs.
I'm more concerned about the tps than anything else currently.
And Azn I still need my distributor as I'm not running coil on plugs.
#2408
I wish I had a 97 sc laying around I would have probably got it by now.
Well Gave it a go today with some tinkering since I got home early.
here is basically why I can't try the stock cap.
I did however take the cap off and take a few photos. After the installation of everything back into place still got the same codes for 1 3 5 and the random misfire. Shut the car off (fully warm) and unplugged that greasy plug and started the car back up. At first it gave no codes which was great but I got out to listen to the exhaust and could still hear the misfires though faint. Moved the car back into its spot and checked again and got misfire codes on 3, 4 and 5 this time. The car is still idling a bit high, and you can definitely feel the difference in "snuggness" between the two caps.
I think i'm going to reset the tps tomorrow by voltage just to see if it has any effect on the misfires. Other than that I'm back to grasping at straws.
here is basically why I can't try the stock cap.
I did however take the cap off and take a few photos. After the installation of everything back into place still got the same codes for 1 3 5 and the random misfire. Shut the car off (fully warm) and unplugged that greasy plug and started the car back up. At first it gave no codes which was great but I got out to listen to the exhaust and could still hear the misfires though faint. Moved the car back into its spot and checked again and got misfire codes on 3, 4 and 5 this time. The car is still idling a bit high, and you can definitely feel the difference in "snuggness" between the two caps.
I think i'm going to reset the tps tomorrow by voltage just to see if it has any effect on the misfires. Other than that I'm back to grasping at straws.
So tell me if this sounds funky because I'm about to just get a new tps.
Set the voltage to .65, took off the throttle cable and backed the idle air screw all the way out before hand.
Checked the continuity to see if it was 1 or 0. Found out that it's still stuck on 1 which means the car wants to rev up and down because it thinks you are giving it gas. There is no way right now of getting the tps to zero at this voltage. I was under the impression you should pretty much be able to get it out of continuity at any point in the slot by adjusting the idle air screw?
Set the voltage to .65, took off the throttle cable and backed the idle air screw all the way out before hand.
Checked the continuity to see if it was 1 or 0. Found out that it's still stuck on 1 which means the car wants to rev up and down because it thinks you are giving it gas. There is no way right now of getting the tps to zero at this voltage. I was under the impression you should pretty much be able to get it out of continuity at any point in the slot by adjusting the idle air screw?
you will need to back that screw in like I said, the one by the throttle cable not the idle screw.
IF the one by the throttle cable is not letting the throttle back, then it doesn't matter if you remove the idle screw even cause the other one is holding it way past the idle position already.
#2409
this right here from your post a couple pages ago, the screw on the right is the reason you cannot get the tps in the right position, did you not fix it after I said that was the problem last time? screw it in till it looks like the one on the left does, then your idle screw (not pictured) will actually do something.
If you are using an obd2 ecu and never entering the "idl" mode that could explain a lot of weird things happening. I would correct this ASAP.
Once you do this the TPS slot will allow you to hit the right position.
If you are using an obd2 ecu and never entering the "idl" mode that could explain a lot of weird things happening. I would correct this ASAP.
Once you do this the TPS slot will allow you to hit the right position.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 02-09-15 at 09:28 AM.
#2410
I did lower it a lot actually and removed the cruise screw because it was getting in the way.
I might have a few mm left in the throttle screw to bring it down. I think its close when I checked the max voltage I could get to it was .58 without hitting this barrier.
So run the stock cap with no maf to test the cap?
I might have a few mm left in the throttle screw to bring it down. I think its close when I checked the max voltage I could get to it was .58 without hitting this barrier.
So run the stock cap with no maf to test the cap?
#2411
I think I understood wrong before.
With continuity on the IDL pin, that means its saying to the ecu its idling.
what you want is when you open the throttle some, it should loose continuity.
In resistance speak, that means a resistance of like 2-3kohms when idling, and an infinite resistance when throttle is applied.
I totally forgot about the maf again. I guess you can't do that realistically. you would have to run it in blowthrough in the intercooler piping and that could cause other problems. I'll do a search on it though to see if its possible on the mk4 ecu. edit* looks like mixed results, I would just get a vpc/safc and call it a day.
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...one-it-Results
With continuity on the IDL pin, that means its saying to the ecu its idling.
what you want is when you open the throttle some, it should loose continuity.
In resistance speak, that means a resistance of like 2-3kohms when idling, and an infinite resistance when throttle is applied.
I totally forgot about the maf again. I guess you can't do that realistically. you would have to run it in blowthrough in the intercooler piping and that could cause other problems. I'll do a search on it though to see if its possible on the mk4 ecu. edit* looks like mixed results, I would just get a vpc/safc and call it a day.
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...one-it-Results
#2412
Something has to be wrong because it couldn't have done this when n/a so I'm wondering why it would be like this now. I thought I should be able to get that idle mode anywhere in the slot as long as the idle air screw is positioned accordingly.
Yeah I read on the maf blow through in that thread a while back because people kept talking about response ect.
Yeah I read on the maf blow through in that thread a while back because people kept talking about response ect.
#2413
I only get the idl mode in like less than half of the slot, everything has to be setup generally close for it to happen in the slot. if you jumper to check the timing and hear the sound change, then you are in IDL as in it will have continuity. when you bliup the throttle it should go out of idl mode right away, or as close as you can get it, thats the purpose of the slot to adjust it to the edge of continuity at idle. I am not sure if that is your issue though I think its likely also somehing else.
Nice dizzy cap aznexus, that took alot of patience I am sure.
Nice dizzy cap aznexus, that took alot of patience I am sure.
#2414
Okay, I'll bring down the screw by the throttle cable if I can then I'll try to bring it as close to .65 as possible.
I'm just curious if there is any effect, if not I'll have to go forward with getting rid of the distributor.
I'm just curious if there is any effect, if not I'll have to go forward with getting rid of the distributor.