2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
#138
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I notice in that guys video he physically cant past 2k rpm... in my car i can FORCE it to go past 4k rpms but it feels like im gonna blow some **** up. Instinctivly i let off at 4k because it falls on its face and starts going crazy. definetly gotta be ignition associated with tht code though.
Alot of other sources indicate a similar problem when using large injectors with no tuning, but it is only a 20% difference. i knew it wasnt gonna run IDEAL but i figured the comp could compensate for 5-20% difference
#141
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it doesn't matter if it's 3k, 2k or 4k rpm once you have a code 14 that's what it is. You need to run a clean wire from the igf from the ignitor to the the ecu , maybe the pin is loose inside the ecu connector.
Hook up the intercooler wire and wiggle that igf wire at the ecu i am sure you will see the difference.
the igf tell the ecu how the coils and ignitor are running if it doesnt get a good signal the ecu will cut the fuel so that's what's happening it seems like.
Hook up the intercooler wire and wiggle that igf wire at the ecu i am sure you will see the difference.
the igf tell the ecu how the coils and ignitor are running if it doesnt get a good signal the ecu will cut the fuel so that's what's happening it seems like.
#142
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I was getting a code 14" I know code 14 is IGF, IGF is used to tell the ECU that there is spark, and will remain adding fuel. If the ECU does not sense spark, the fuel will be cut.
So it wasn't making a good contact at the ECU, so i put a new at the ECU connector so that problem is solve.
Now the car won't Rev past 3k RPM i think i found the fix to this issue, it's either remove one wire in the kick panel if that doesn't fix it i will be going back with the 95 dash harness
Car runs and idle smooth with no misfire and no break up.
So it wasn't making a good contact at the ECU, so i put a new at the ECU connector so that problem is solve.
Now the car won't Rev past 3k RPM i think i found the fix to this issue, it's either remove one wire in the kick panel if that doesn't fix it i will be going back with the 95 dash harness
Car runs and idle smooth with no misfire and no break up.
#145
#147
have you checked your timing? if you are too advanced it can cause symptoms like that and you could hurt the engine. since we have distributors and the base timing can be changed you need to check when you install the ecu because the tt ecu is set up a little differently. I got mine to idle at like 12-15 degrees btdc (turning distributor with the light on crank), and it revs and boosts perfect. as soon as you hit the throttle, the GTE ecu ramps up the timing, seriously it is something that should be verified before boosting.
It is possible the stock ignitor may not be compatible, but you don't have to spend that much to go coilpacks.
get the ds62 ignitor it costs $30 on ebay usually. get some 7mgte coilpacks and wires, they work the exact same as vvti coils but are not quite as strong but will give spark for 4-500hp just fine, the mk3 guys like to mount them on the firewall and run the wires backwards (swap 1 and 6, 2 and 5, and 3 and 4). you can pick those up for really cheap, check the mk3 classifieds on SF.
If we knew how the signals were different maybe we could come up with something, like a resister or filter or something to that effect.
may have to go to the toyota manuals and try and find some specs on the igt signal resistance for the TT and the n/a.
It is possible the stock ignitor may not be compatible, but you don't have to spend that much to go coilpacks.
get the ds62 ignitor it costs $30 on ebay usually. get some 7mgte coilpacks and wires, they work the exact same as vvti coils but are not quite as strong but will give spark for 4-500hp just fine, the mk3 guys like to mount them on the firewall and run the wires backwards (swap 1 and 6, 2 and 5, and 3 and 4). you can pick those up for really cheap, check the mk3 classifieds on SF.
If we knew how the signals were different maybe we could come up with something, like a resister or filter or something to that effect.
may have to go to the toyota manuals and try and find some specs on the igt signal resistance for the TT and the n/a.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 07-20-12 at 11:50 PM.
#148
looks like the IGF signal from stock ignitor may be narrower than the ones with coilpacks.
that would be a bummer for those wanting to use the stock distributor, but there are plenty of coil pack options out there. 7mgte and vvti will work with the stock intake. so will most toyota coils that are wastespark. you will end up with better spark and more turbo clearance.
that would be a bummer for those wanting to use the stock distributor, but there are plenty of coil pack options out there. 7mgte and vvti will work with the stock intake. so will most toyota coils that are wastespark. you will end up with better spark and more turbo clearance.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 07-21-12 at 12:20 AM.
#149
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Ali,
Sorry about what happened in CO i was watching the news, what a POS.
I told him to double check and make sure the map sensor is not bad and then recheck the wiring because of code 31 because it's amp sensor code.
Sorry about what happened in CO i was watching the news, what a POS.
I told him to double check and make sure the map sensor is not bad and then recheck the wiring because of code 31 because it's amp sensor code.
#150
Yeah i know what you mean, i couldn't really believe it at first its really not that far away from me.
yeah, even i messed up the map sensor wiring the first time and had that code, thats gotta have something to do with it. It makes the process much easier to do when you use all stock stuff.
yeah, even i messed up the map sensor wiring the first time and had that code, thats gotta have something to do with it. It makes the process much easier to do when you use all stock stuff.