rc0

The ignition switch on my 93 SC400 was damaged due to theft. The repair shop installed new ignition lock switch with new keys and left me with the following:

- 2 original remote master keys that open trunk release lock only (because the shop said that they couldn't figure out how to remove the lock to match to my new key)
- 2 new non-remote master keys that drives and opens every other locks, except the trunk release (because the shop said that they could not match the new ignition lock with my old key)
- 1 original valet key which is now useless

Ideally, I would like to have one key that opens all the lock and with the remote working at the same time. The worst case, I can probably buy a blank/uncut remote key from dealer for about $250. But I'm wondering if the following is possible:

- Is it true that the new ignition lock can not be matched to my old key? If this can be done then I can just havel all the locks matched to my old keys, so I have 2 working remote keys again.

- Is the trunk release lock that hard to remove? If it's something easy to do, that I can just have that matched to the new key so I don't have to carry two keys anymore, unless I want to lock/unlock with the original remote.

- Another idea, is it possible replace the metal key on the original remote master with a blank/uncut key? This way, I can continue to use the original remote keys.

Please reply if you have answers or have better ideas. Thanks.

HotBoy

I am pretty sure you can't match the cylinders to your old keys.
I am a little confused on why your remote no longer works for the doors, regardless of what physical cylinder is there the actuator which is activated by the reciever should still work. There was a thread a few days ago on how o program your keyless entry with a new remote maybe this just needs to be done again.
Not sure on the trunk question sorry.

aliga

iTrader: (147)

take the cylinder with your old key to locksmith, they can match the cylinder to the key.

rc0

Sorry I was not clear in my original post. The original remotes still work for the doors, but the key itself only works on the trunck release lock.

rc0

Any idea how much this will cost, including removal and installation of the cylinder? Any recommendation for competent shops in Northern NJ/NYC area also appreciated.

My SC400 was stolen about 3 years ago and even though it was recoverred after 1 week, I am still recovering from the incident. The car had missing front seats, damaged rear quarter panel, damaged steering wheel, damaged ignition switch, damaged door handle, damaged battery, burnt electrical system, ...etc. After numerous repairs in past few years, I feel the car is now in good mechanical condition, probably even better than before.

Hopfully after I figure out what to do with the keys and locks, I can start getting repairs for interior/exterior cosmetcis, and then I'll finally be done...

aliga

iTrader: (147)

if your handy with tools, you can remove the cylinder yourself. A locksmith would probably charge 25 to rekey it.

HotBoy

I just retightened my cylinder because it was loose and rattly, you can do it it is a PITA to get to a few screws though. It depends on how handy you are, I just like taking my car apart and putting it back together so I know how everything goes.
PEACE

BigManne

iTrader: (3)

not to bring back this from the dead but im in the same boat about replacing the ignition switch. anyone have a clue of how to get the ingnition switch out. i need the info for a guy on here im buying the switch with a working key from. he doesnt know how to get it out. any info would be appreciated.

BigManne

iTrader: (3)

take to the top

rjuge

I'm the guy with the switch.....

Once you remve everything around the switch, it appears that it is an l-shaped piece with the cylinder and actual plug at one corner. The unit connects back to the steering column (I assume to lock the wheel?) It is attached via a screw with no visible head to the metal structure of the steering column. The "screw" is tapered on the bottom end in the shape of a "V", the top end visible through the threaded hole it goes into.

Im going to try to use a dir grinder to notch the screw on Tuesday, but it'd be nice to know how Lexus planned for people to remove this part without destroying the car....

vredniykot

dont grind nothing, take the steering column out, put the key in, turn it, then find a push-in pin, push it in, pull the cylinder out

BigManne

iTrader: (3)

thank you very much

rjuge

dammit.. shoulda charged more for those parts... now it looks like Tuesday is going to be a crappy day for me...

But, a deal's a deal..

(I'll probably still use the die grinder...
(No one said they wanted the steering column from my part-out yet!) muhuhahah..

BigManne

iTrader: (3)

as long as you don't damage it, and i can still use it im good

2JZGTE-SC

removing the steering column is not necessary to get the ignition cylinder out....just remove the bottom part of the gauge cluster (part with odometer reset, and clock set) and you will then have access to the pin you have to push. just did this earlier today, very easy, much better than having to put a notch into a flat head bolt (like you'd have to do on most cars)