What part typically bends?
#1
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Thread Starter
What part typically bends?
Hi, new to the forum. This is my first post here...
So I was out at a car meet last week in my 95 sc400, brought a buddy along with me since his license is currently suspended. The event basically got rained out and since it was over an hour drive to get there i decided to go for a drive in the rain to pass some time. I was sliding around all the corners perfect with my locked differential no problem. I was just going to leave the undeveloped industrial area when my buddy asks "can i drive". I let him drive for 2mins and he looses control in a big puddle, the car does a 180° and slides the drivers rear tire into a curb.
Now something is bent pretty good. There appears to be more camber on the pass side now, and the drivers side seems like its 0° camber. My tape measure shows the rear to be towed out 1/4". The top of drivers rear wheel is very tight to the body "almost no wheel gap". The traction bars and toe links appear straight. Obviously now it drives terrible on the highway.
So I'm wondering what is likely bent?? Any part known to be weak?
Subframe, spindle/hub, upper control arm, or my worst fear body. Let me know what you all think
So I was out at a car meet last week in my 95 sc400, brought a buddy along with me since his license is currently suspended. The event basically got rained out and since it was over an hour drive to get there i decided to go for a drive in the rain to pass some time. I was sliding around all the corners perfect with my locked differential no problem. I was just going to leave the undeveloped industrial area when my buddy asks "can i drive". I let him drive for 2mins and he looses control in a big puddle, the car does a 180° and slides the drivers rear tire into a curb.
Now something is bent pretty good. There appears to be more camber on the pass side now, and the drivers side seems like its 0° camber. My tape measure shows the rear to be towed out 1/4". The top of drivers rear wheel is very tight to the body "almost no wheel gap". The traction bars and toe links appear straight. Obviously now it drives terrible on the highway.
So I'm wondering what is likely bent?? Any part known to be weak?
Subframe, spindle/hub, upper control arm, or my worst fear body. Let me know what you all think
#5
Rookie
Thread Starter
No doubt, at least he's paying for the damage + a set of tires. Helps that I told him I'd murder him if he hit a curb, then 2mins later he hit a curb.
Visually the only thing that appears bent is the spindle right where the traction bar attaches but I don't wanna start throwing parts at it if the subframe or body is bent too. If the subframe is bent than buddy will be buying me a complete rear suspension from an MKiv supra.
Visually the only thing that appears bent is the spindle right where the traction bar attaches but I don't wanna start throwing parts at it if the subframe or body is bent too. If the subframe is bent than buddy will be buying me a complete rear suspension from an MKiv supra.
#7
These cars seem very easy to knock out of alignment on the rear when curbed hard. You can bend toe control rods, traction bars, & if hit hard enough the lower control arm. Take it a good alignment shop & they should be able to tell you what is bent.
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#8
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Thread Starter
So figured I'd report back exactly what was damaged...
-Drivers side spindle/upright was bent over 1/4" at the bottom
-Camber bolt/eccentric washer bent and twisted
-subframe was twisted 1/8"
-subframe shifted on rear mounts 1/8"
The camber arms, toe rods, traction bars are straight and intact, unibody is straight, axles are straight as well as passenger spindle. The wheel has curb rash but is not bent. Overall not terrible.
My buddy payed me $800 + a set of tires for the damage that he caused.
Cost to repair:
-MKiv supra rear subframe/suspension-$700
-figs solid diff mount bushings-$300
-4wheel alignment-$100
-tires, install, and balance-[FREE]
-my time and effort=24beer
-Drivers side spindle/upright was bent over 1/4" at the bottom
-Camber bolt/eccentric washer bent and twisted
-subframe was twisted 1/8"
-subframe shifted on rear mounts 1/8"
The camber arms, toe rods, traction bars are straight and intact, unibody is straight, axles are straight as well as passenger spindle. The wheel has curb rash but is not bent. Overall not terrible.
My buddy payed me $800 + a set of tires for the damage that he caused.
Cost to repair:
-MKiv supra rear subframe/suspension-$700
-figs solid diff mount bushings-$300
-4wheel alignment-$100
-tires, install, and balance-[FREE]
-my time and effort=24beer
#9
Rookie
Thread Starter
So while removing the old subframe I destroyed both wheel speed/ABS sensors, and looking at the MKiv supra subframe it doesn't even have the location to install the sensors. So since I don't care about ABS or traction control can I just remove the sensors and wires? or do I need to remove the abs or traction control fuse(s) to prevent issues? Do these cars even have accessible fuses for abs and traction control? Anyone else ever come across this sensor issue when swapping a supra subframe into an sc400?
#10
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (8)
If you remove the sensors you'll have an ABS light on your dash, and under hard breaking the ABS may or may not function, but thats about it as far as how the car will be affected by missing speed sensors. The reason it may still function is because the speed sensors are crossed. So the Front left, and rear right both input on the same line, and the front right and rear left also input on the same line, so your ABS may still be succesfully triggered by the front tires, but the rears will no longer be sending any information to the ABS system.
I haven't swapped sensors or subframe, but I damaged my front left ABS speed sensor and the above has been my experience of driving with it while it was broken/disconnected. YMMV
I haven't swapped sensors or subframe, but I damaged my front left ABS speed sensor and the above has been my experience of driving with it while it was broken/disconnected. YMMV
#11
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Thread Starter
Do the SC and supra have a different wheelbase or something? Cause I can't get my SC diff and axles in, the axles are under tension when I try to raise the diff into place? I thought only B series diff's used different axle lengths than the SC?????
#12
Rookie
Thread Starter
haha, didn't have the axles all the way into the hubs, Ooops. All is good now, drives really good and solid with the supra subframe. I couldn't get the supra e-brake cables to hook up as they appears to be a few inches shorter but ohh well "good excuse for hydro e-brake" lol
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