Just supercharged my SC4
#37
Yup, not much else I can do. I'm also thinking about some way to do some hood venting. I'm thinking maybe removing the under hood cover thingy.
So under tray first, I've already ordered stuff for my oil cooler, but I'm not sure what else I can do. The only thing I've changed since last time is the FMIC and getting rid of my under tray (since it didn't fit).
Actually you want to know the scariest thing?
The range from 200-250, the factory temp NEVER moved from under half. It just sat there regardless of the temp change.
So under tray first, I've already ordered stuff for my oil cooler, but I'm not sure what else I can do. The only thing I've changed since last time is the FMIC and getting rid of my under tray (since it didn't fit).
Actually you want to know the scariest thing?
The range from 200-250, the factory temp NEVER moved from under half. It just sat there regardless of the temp change.
#38
Well I took off my under hood shroud, and modified my under bumper vent/shroud thing with the spare one I had.
It took some scissors zipties, my degree in zip tie stiches, but it's ready to go. I wasn't able to get it fitted perfectly on one side, but I do have an idea with how to do some more ducting. Once I get access to a lift then I'll figure out some way to get the left side on.
My next step (regardless if this stops my overheating or now) is to make a side shield. I plan to take off the tow supports (one on each side has two 14mm bolts holding them on), and making an L shaped bracket to curve underneath.
Then I plan to use the holes besides the fog lights (i have a 97+ bumper) to feed into a hole that I will cut out of the L shape that I intend to add.
It sounds confusing, but I'll post some pics when I do it and I'm sure it'll make sense.
So the car is driving decent, the KMV sensor is completely dead, when I leave it plugged in, it bucks and jerks in anything BUT WOT. I've ordered more couplers to make my intake during this time I'll reroute my KMV sensor to the intake side.
It took some scissors zipties, my degree in zip tie stiches, but it's ready to go. I wasn't able to get it fitted perfectly on one side, but I do have an idea with how to do some more ducting. Once I get access to a lift then I'll figure out some way to get the left side on.
My next step (regardless if this stops my overheating or now) is to make a side shield. I plan to take off the tow supports (one on each side has two 14mm bolts holding them on), and making an L shaped bracket to curve underneath.
Then I plan to use the holes besides the fog lights (i have a 97+ bumper) to feed into a hole that I will cut out of the L shape that I intend to add.
It sounds confusing, but I'll post some pics when I do it and I'm sure it'll make sense.
So the car is driving decent, the KMV sensor is completely dead, when I leave it plugged in, it bucks and jerks in anything BUT WOT. I've ordered more couplers to make my intake during this time I'll reroute my KMV sensor to the intake side.
#40
I got the blower setup for $1100, I got lucky with all that. Intercooler already had, misc. piping was probably about four hundred or so. Still have to make the intake and cold side piping.
BOV already had too. Adaptronic and wiring harness is about eight hundred (but not installed yet), FMU was a hundred bucks. LS400 Fan Bracket was forty at the yard, and the Taurus fan was about the same.
LoL, I did it like a week ago, you've been so cool to get an IS-F and sell your SC that you didn't realize the beater was getting some more power.
BOV already had too. Adaptronic and wiring harness is about eight hundred (but not installed yet), FMU was a hundred bucks. LS400 Fan Bracket was forty at the yard, and the Taurus fan was about the same.
LoL, I did it like a week ago, you've been so cool to get an IS-F and sell your SC that you didn't realize the beater was getting some more power.
#41
So.....under panel vents on, hood insulation off, seems about the same. water wetter in, and it stays about 240 ish. When I come down to idle it's about 220-230.
So technically anything over 235 is considered overheating, again my factory temp gauge never moved. I know that **** works, cause last week the power wire to the fan came loose and it spiked in heat lol.
I need to find someone who has the full 1uz FSM to see what overheating actually is (since it actually varies from engine to engine).
before the FMIC it was 220-223, so it's losing a bit of airflow since the FMIC. I may have to find a smaller one. I'll wait to see if my oil cooler makes the difference too.
In other news, boost gauge finally made it, and wideband is in. I need to find some time to get to the muffler shop to get the bung installed.
I'm thinking I should go ahead and put the FMU in since it won't take too long. I need to delete the EGR stuff too. I'm still waiting for the rest of the intake piping to come in so I can finally move the KMV sensor.....
Hell the KMV sensor needs to get moved first, I'm so tired of the car jerking like it's got Parkinson's.
So technically anything over 235 is considered overheating, again my factory temp gauge never moved. I know that **** works, cause last week the power wire to the fan came loose and it spiked in heat lol.
I need to find someone who has the full 1uz FSM to see what overheating actually is (since it actually varies from engine to engine).
before the FMIC it was 220-223, so it's losing a bit of airflow since the FMIC. I may have to find a smaller one. I'll wait to see if my oil cooler makes the difference too.
In other news, boost gauge finally made it, and wideband is in. I need to find some time to get to the muffler shop to get the bung installed.
I'm thinking I should go ahead and put the FMU in since it won't take too long. I need to delete the EGR stuff too. I'm still waiting for the rest of the intake piping to come in so I can finally move the KMV sensor.....
Hell the KMV sensor needs to get moved first, I'm so tired of the car jerking like it's got Parkinson's.
#42
So last night I was doing a little research on going single or not since I was going to the muffler shop today.
I came up on an older post by JBrady over on Lextreme.
So I went ahead and kept my exhaust, but had the muffler shop change out the resonator to the 2.5, on the STOCK Y-pipe and install the bung there.
Holy Heck, night and day difference. I couldn't believe how much more peppy she got. Even with the 3.26, you can tell there's a huge difference now. However....it did get a bit louder, and kinda sounds like a GTO I didn't really pay attention to it on the highway though so I don't know if it'll drone or not. It only got a bit louder on start up....Oh well guess I'll have to get mufflers put on.
Anyway, so on to the good stuff, I did some highway pulls this morning. I was able to adjust the SAFC to make up for the 3-4000 spot, but anything beyond that it goes lean. I did notice that the KMV sensor was reading 627 Hz (this was as far as I could go with it leaning out), I believe that even at this high of a Hz reading it still has NOT maxed the KMV sensor. I don't even know if there's an upward limit for the KMV sensor.
At about 2200, I've begun to make boost, then as we get up to 3000 RPM's I'm at roughly five PSI.
So needless to say, I'm going to try to do my FMU today, and do a little messing around on the SAFC and go from there.
My plan is to zero the SAFC in the upper range, (so pretty much 3K and above) and leave the lower RPM settings on the SAFC as they are.
I'll test again later tonight, if I can get the FMU on. The FMU that I have though is an eight to one unit.
Also, I need to start getting rid of my emissions stuff, I may begin on that today.
I came up on an older post by JBrady over on Lextreme.
Now I had one person install S&S headers on his SC400 with dual 2.5" into a single 3" using a very good merge Y pipe. He was very dissapointed. I suggested dropping to dual 2.25" and he decided to drop to dual 2.00" into a single 2.5" using a muffler shop created Y pipe (less than great design) and he LOVED how it responded with great throttle and MORE power! This is one of the many reasons for my support for the STOCK Y pipe for MOST applications. If you still have yours I would cut it to fit your system and change the center resonator out for a piece of 2.5" pipe.
Understand that dual 2" into a single 2.5" creates less Y pipe acceleration than dual 2.25" into a single 2.5". The flow is slower in the dual 2.25" verses the dual 2" pipes at any given power.
Understand that dual 2" into a single 2.5" creates less Y pipe acceleration than dual 2.25" into a single 2.5". The flow is slower in the dual 2.25" verses the dual 2" pipes at any given power.
Holy Heck, night and day difference. I couldn't believe how much more peppy she got. Even with the 3.26, you can tell there's a huge difference now. However....it did get a bit louder, and kinda sounds like a GTO I didn't really pay attention to it on the highway though so I don't know if it'll drone or not. It only got a bit louder on start up....Oh well guess I'll have to get mufflers put on.
Anyway, so on to the good stuff, I did some highway pulls this morning. I was able to adjust the SAFC to make up for the 3-4000 spot, but anything beyond that it goes lean. I did notice that the KMV sensor was reading 627 Hz (this was as far as I could go with it leaning out), I believe that even at this high of a Hz reading it still has NOT maxed the KMV sensor. I don't even know if there's an upward limit for the KMV sensor.
At about 2200, I've begun to make boost, then as we get up to 3000 RPM's I'm at roughly five PSI.
So needless to say, I'm going to try to do my FMU today, and do a little messing around on the SAFC and go from there.
My plan is to zero the SAFC in the upper range, (so pretty much 3K and above) and leave the lower RPM settings on the SAFC as they are.
I'll test again later tonight, if I can get the FMU on. The FMU that I have though is an eight to one unit.
Also, I need to start getting rid of my emissions stuff, I may begin on that today.
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1992, 1uz, aem, craigslist, dyno, ems, guts, hx35, lexus, mkiii, options, sc400, supercharger, thermostate, v2