SC- 1st Gen (1992-2000)

2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod

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Old 07-20-12, 12:29 PM
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99SC42
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check out this thread !

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...m-im-lost.html
Old 07-20-12, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Quicksc4
interesting.... so they came to the conclusion it was a bad igniter? i know mine is good... but im still using the n/a igniter im wondering if its not performing to the standard of the tt one?

Its only 2 years old and functioned perfect until the ecu swap
Old 07-20-12, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Quicksc4
code 14 is igf signal, you are not getting a clean signal from the ignitor to the ECU , it's a yelloW and orange wire that come from the ignitor to the ECU at pin 58b.
Im gonna check here in a second when im off work, Do you know if the tt ignitor and n/a ignitor are much different?

I notice in that guys video he physically cant past 2k rpm... in my car i can FORCE it to go past 4k rpms but it feels like im gonna blow some **** up. Instinctivly i let off at 4k because it falls on its face and starts going crazy. definetly gotta be ignition associated with tht code though.

Alot of other sources indicate a similar problem when using large injectors with no tuning, but it is only a 20% difference. i knew it wasnt gonna run IDEAL but i figured the comp could compensate for 5-20% difference
Old 07-20-12, 01:41 PM
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After reading im gonna go over all my wiring.... it says the aristo ecu will cut the injectors off at 4k if the code 14 is present.
Old 07-20-12, 04:51 PM
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K so went over all the wiring, still looks fine. Gonna re locate my map as well to directly on the manifold.

When i remove the intercooler piping and let it just run n/a it will go past 4k rpms just fine. But with it on it breaks up like a **** at 4k+
Old 07-20-12, 07:10 PM
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it doesn't matter if it's 3k, 2k or 4k rpm once you have a code 14 that's what it is. You need to run a clean wire from the igf from the ignitor to the the ecu , maybe the pin is loose inside the ecu connector.

Hook up the intercooler wire and wiggle that igf wire at the ecu i am sure you will see the difference.

the igf tell the ecu how the coils and ignitor are running if it doesnt get a good signal the ecu will cut the fuel so that's what's happening it seems like.
Old 07-20-12, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by sj408
K so went over all the wiring, still looks fine. Gonna re locate my map as well to directly on the manifold.

When i remove the intercooler piping and let it just run n/a it will go past 4k rpms just fine. But with it on it breaks up like a **** at 4k+
check this out
Originally Posted by Quicksc4
I was getting a code 14" I know code 14 is IGF, IGF is used to tell the ECU that there is spark, and will remain adding fuel. If the ECU does not sense spark, the fuel will be cut.

So it wasn't making a good contact at the ECU, so i put a new at the ECU connector so that problem is solve.

Now the car won't Rev past 3k RPM i think i found the fix to this issue, it's either remove one wire in the kick panel if that doesn't fix it i will be going back with the 95 dash harness

Car runs and idle smooth with no misfire and no break up.
Old 07-20-12, 07:47 PM
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So your saying to do what with the IGF? i have a distributor so i didnt touch the igf... just tapped into the one next to it and ran the extra wires.
Old 07-20-12, 07:52 PM
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I dont see what you ment by remove one wire in the kick panel... im getting frustrated with this... but not givin up
Old 07-20-12, 08:03 PM
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the igf wire goes from the ecu to the ignitor, check the connection at the ecu and at the ignitor make sure it's amking a good contact . what ignitor are you running?
Old 07-20-12, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Quicksc4
the igf wire goes from the ecu to the ignitor, check the connection at the ecu and at the ignitor make sure it's amking a good contact . what ignitor are you running?
Its the stock sc300 n/a ignitor.... can anyone verify that it is compatible with the gte ecu?? i really dont wanna have to run coil packs cause thats just more money i dont have
Old 07-20-12, 11:43 PM
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have you checked your timing? if you are too advanced it can cause symptoms like that and you could hurt the engine. since we have distributors and the base timing can be changed you need to check when you install the ecu because the tt ecu is set up a little differently. I got mine to idle at like 12-15 degrees btdc (turning distributor with the light on crank), and it revs and boosts perfect. as soon as you hit the throttle, the GTE ecu ramps up the timing, seriously it is something that should be verified before boosting.

It is possible the stock ignitor may not be compatible, but you don't have to spend that much to go coilpacks.
get the ds62 ignitor it costs $30 on ebay usually. get some 7mgte coilpacks and wires, they work the exact same as vvti coils but are not quite as strong but will give spark for 4-500hp just fine, the mk3 guys like to mount them on the firewall and run the wires backwards (swap 1 and 6, 2 and 5, and 3 and 4). you can pick those up for really cheap, check the mk3 classifieds on SF.

If we knew how the signals were different maybe we could come up with something, like a resister or filter or something to that effect.
may have to go to the toyota manuals and try and find some specs on the igt signal resistance for the TT and the n/a.

Last edited by Ali SC3; 07-20-12 at 11:50 PM.
Old 07-21-12, 12:12 AM
  #148  
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looks like the IGF signal from stock ignitor may be narrower than the ones with coilpacks.
that would be a bummer for those wanting to use the stock distributor, but there are plenty of coil pack options out there. 7mgte and vvti will work with the stock intake. so will most toyota coils that are wastespark. you will end up with better spark and more turbo clearance.
Attached Thumbnails 2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod-dtc-14.jpg   2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod-igt.jpg  

Last edited by Ali SC3; 07-21-12 at 12:20 AM.
Old 07-21-12, 05:59 AM
  #149  
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Ali,

Sorry about what happened in CO i was watching the news, what a POS.

I told him to double check and make sure the map sensor is not bad and then recheck the wiring because of code 31 because it's amp sensor code.
Old 07-21-12, 10:32 AM
  #150  
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Yeah i know what you mean, i couldn't really believe it at first its really not that far away from me.
yeah, even i messed up the map sensor wiring the first time and had that code, thats gotta have something to do with it. It makes the process much easier to do when you use all stock stuff.


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