saddle tan or black
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Fl
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
saddle tan or black
I'm buying a 2014 rx350.
I have narrowed my choice down to Starfire Pearl exterior with either black or saddle tan interior.
What are the pros and cons of these two colors. I cannot decide!
Thanks for your help!
Ellen
I have narrowed my choice down to Starfire Pearl exterior with either black or saddle tan interior.
What are the pros and cons of these two colors. I cannot decide!
Thanks for your help!
Ellen
#2
Lead Lap
Personally, I really like black. Our 2010 RX has the parchment interior (light beige/cream) and just about any brand of blue denim pants (like Levis) will deposit blue dye on the seat bottom--every time. The blue can be removed using Lexol cleaner and conditioner, but it's a pain & it's unsightly. I have no clue if that will happen with saddle tan.
Noting that you live in Florida, you may find a black interior to be hotter in the summer than a lighter color.
Noting that you live in Florida, you may find a black interior to be hotter in the summer than a lighter color.
#3
Personally, I really like black. Our 2010 RX has the parchment interior (light beige/cream) and just about any brand of blue denim pants (like Levis) will deposit blue dye on the seat bottom--every time. The blue can be removed using Lexol cleaner and conditioner, but it's a pain & it's unsightly. I have no clue if that will happen with saddle tan.
Noting that you live in Florida, you may find a black interior to be hotter in the summer than a lighter color.
Noting that you live in Florida, you may find a black interior to be hotter in the summer than a lighter color.
#4
Leather care is easy and the finish on leather is actually urethane paint so it is not difficult to keep clean. I have maintained both black and light tan leather for decades with simply a regular quarterly cleaning and application of a water-based fluorocarbon protectant. I vacuum and wipe down the leather with a damp cotton towel every week or two when I do a wash.
My 1991 MR2 is 23 years old and has black leather while I just sold my 2004 RX330 with tan leather and replaced it with a 2014 RX with parchment leather.
I personally prefer the lighter color leather. Modern coated leather is quite easy to care for and if you use a protector, it will stay looking like new for years.
#5
#6
Racer
#7
Moderator
Black offers no contrast, depth or visual distinction between the interior of the car and the exterior. It's boring, uninteresting and says to the world that you are all empty inside.
Pick a color, any color, and step into the sunlight.
Pick a color, any color, and step into the sunlight.
Trending Topics
#8
Removing existing stains is a difficult issue.
Leather is really used to carry the topcoat. The nice even grain pattern you see and the uniform color and absence of scars and blemishes are due to the paint put on your leather. The actual split leather hide under the paint is quite ugly. Here is the rub...It is the paint, both a pigment and a clear coat, that is what gets stained. The longer the stain is in contact with the painted surface the deeper it penetrates. It is frequently impossible to completely remove dye transfer stains that have been in place for several days. The issue then becomes one of restoration and not cleaning at this point.
So here is what I'd do. This is called the CHAT method and is what most leather professionals suggest.
C=Chemical cleaner
H=Heat
A=Agitation
T=Time (dwell time)
I'd buy a bottle of Leather Masters Strong Leather Cleaner and I'd mix it 50/50 with mildly warm/hot water. Apply to a foam applicator and squeeze it repeatedly to get a rich thick foam then apply to a small 1' x 1' section and gently but aggressively agitate the area. Let the foamy cleaning solution dwell for a couple minutes then wipe it up with a 100% white cotton towel. Inspect the towel to see if the stain is coming up into the towel. If the towel shows some stain removal, repeat until the towel is coming up clean. Once the stain is no longer coming out you are done as the leather is as clean as you safely can get it. If all of the stain is not removed then you are facing a restoration or you'll have to live with it. It may fade some over time but you will not be able to remove the remaining stain without removing the painted topcoat.
It's important to apply leather protection to prevent this staining from occurring. Prevention is the key here. There are several leather protectors on the market. The product I personally use and can recommend is Leather Masters Leather Protection Cream. LTT also makes an excellent protector but it is hard to find here in the states. I know of several others including one new one from Meguiar's but I have not used them and thus can't comment on their effectiveness. I have used LM products for a couple decades and it is still the brand I reach for. First thing I did on my new 2014 RX was to apply the LM Protection Cream to the parchment leather.
I've mentioned this elsewhere but it bears repeating...leather conditioners do not prevent dye transfer.
If you have lighter colored leather go get a fluorocarbon protector and apply it now.
Leather is really used to carry the topcoat. The nice even grain pattern you see and the uniform color and absence of scars and blemishes are due to the paint put on your leather. The actual split leather hide under the paint is quite ugly. Here is the rub...It is the paint, both a pigment and a clear coat, that is what gets stained. The longer the stain is in contact with the painted surface the deeper it penetrates. It is frequently impossible to completely remove dye transfer stains that have been in place for several days. The issue then becomes one of restoration and not cleaning at this point.
So here is what I'd do. This is called the CHAT method and is what most leather professionals suggest.
C=Chemical cleaner
H=Heat
A=Agitation
T=Time (dwell time)
I'd buy a bottle of Leather Masters Strong Leather Cleaner and I'd mix it 50/50 with mildly warm/hot water. Apply to a foam applicator and squeeze it repeatedly to get a rich thick foam then apply to a small 1' x 1' section and gently but aggressively agitate the area. Let the foamy cleaning solution dwell for a couple minutes then wipe it up with a 100% white cotton towel. Inspect the towel to see if the stain is coming up into the towel. If the towel shows some stain removal, repeat until the towel is coming up clean. Once the stain is no longer coming out you are done as the leather is as clean as you safely can get it. If all of the stain is not removed then you are facing a restoration or you'll have to live with it. It may fade some over time but you will not be able to remove the remaining stain without removing the painted topcoat.
It's important to apply leather protection to prevent this staining from occurring. Prevention is the key here. There are several leather protectors on the market. The product I personally use and can recommend is Leather Masters Leather Protection Cream. LTT also makes an excellent protector but it is hard to find here in the states. I know of several others including one new one from Meguiar's but I have not used them and thus can't comment on their effectiveness. I have used LM products for a couple decades and it is still the brand I reach for. First thing I did on my new 2014 RX was to apply the LM Protection Cream to the parchment leather.
I've mentioned this elsewhere but it bears repeating...leather conditioners do not prevent dye transfer.
If you have lighter colored leather go get a fluorocarbon protector and apply it now.
#9
No, I don't play soccer!
Aquafit2, you're going to get varying opinions. I'd advise looking at both interior colors in person. Pay special attention to the contrast since it's not truly one color inside. Either would look good with Starfire Pearl. Good luck with whatever you decide.
#10
Removing existing stains is a difficult issue.
Leather is really used to carry the topcoat. The nice even grain pattern you see and the uniform color and absence of scars and blemishes are due to the paint put on your leather. The actual split leather hide under the paint is quite ugly. Here is the rub...It is the paint, both a pigment and a clear coat, that is what gets stained. The longer the stain is in contact with the painted surface the deeper it penetrates. It is frequently impossible to completely remove dye transfer stains that have been in place for several days. The issue then becomes one of restoration and not cleaning at this point.
So here is what I'd do. This is called the CHAT method and is what most leather professionals suggest.
C=Chemical cleaner
H=Heat
A=Agitation
T=Time (dwell time)
I'd buy a bottle of Leather Masters Strong Leather Cleaner and I'd mix it 50/50 with mildly warm/hot water. Apply to a foam applicator and squeeze it repeatedly to get a rich thick foam then apply to a small 1' x 1' section and gently but aggressively agitate the area. Let the foamy cleaning solution dwell for a couple minutes then wipe it up with a 100% white cotton towel. Inspect the towel to see if the stain is coming up into the towel. If the towel shows some stain removal, repeat until the towel is coming up clean. Once the stain is no longer coming out you are done as the leather is as clean as you safely can get it. If all of the stain is not removed then you are facing a restoration or you'll have to live with it. It may fade some over time but you will not be able to remove the remaining stain without removing the painted topcoat.
It's important to apply leather protection to prevent this staining from occurring. Prevention is the key here. There are several leather protectors on the market. The product I personally use and can recommend is Leather Masters Leather Protection Cream. LTT also makes an excellent protector but it is hard to find here in the states. I know of several others including one new one from Meguiar's but I have not used them and thus can't comment on their effectiveness. I have used LM products for a couple decades and it is still the brand I reach for. First thing I did on my new 2014 RX was to apply the LM Protection Cream to the parchment leather.
I've mentioned this elsewhere but it bears repeating...leather conditioners do not prevent dye transfer.
If you have lighter colored leather go get a fluorocarbon protector and apply it now.
Leather is really used to carry the topcoat. The nice even grain pattern you see and the uniform color and absence of scars and blemishes are due to the paint put on your leather. The actual split leather hide under the paint is quite ugly. Here is the rub...It is the paint, both a pigment and a clear coat, that is what gets stained. The longer the stain is in contact with the painted surface the deeper it penetrates. It is frequently impossible to completely remove dye transfer stains that have been in place for several days. The issue then becomes one of restoration and not cleaning at this point.
So here is what I'd do. This is called the CHAT method and is what most leather professionals suggest.
C=Chemical cleaner
H=Heat
A=Agitation
T=Time (dwell time)
I'd buy a bottle of Leather Masters Strong Leather Cleaner and I'd mix it 50/50 with mildly warm/hot water. Apply to a foam applicator and squeeze it repeatedly to get a rich thick foam then apply to a small 1' x 1' section and gently but aggressively agitate the area. Let the foamy cleaning solution dwell for a couple minutes then wipe it up with a 100% white cotton towel. Inspect the towel to see if the stain is coming up into the towel. If the towel shows some stain removal, repeat until the towel is coming up clean. Once the stain is no longer coming out you are done as the leather is as clean as you safely can get it. If all of the stain is not removed then you are facing a restoration or you'll have to live with it. It may fade some over time but you will not be able to remove the remaining stain without removing the painted topcoat.
It's important to apply leather protection to prevent this staining from occurring. Prevention is the key here. There are several leather protectors on the market. The product I personally use and can recommend is Leather Masters Leather Protection Cream. LTT also makes an excellent protector but it is hard to find here in the states. I know of several others including one new one from Meguiar's but I have not used them and thus can't comment on their effectiveness. I have used LM products for a couple decades and it is still the brand I reach for. First thing I did on my new 2014 RX was to apply the LM Protection Cream to the parchment leather.
I've mentioned this elsewhere but it bears repeating...leather conditioners do not prevent dye transfer.
If you have lighter colored leather go get a fluorocarbon protector and apply it now.
EDIT: Actually, I see Leather Master has a dye transfer cleaner that sounds like just the right thing for jeans stains: . I wil give that one a shot, and if the stain comes out I will apply the protection cream afterwards.
Last edited by konradsa; 11-17-13 at 09:32 AM.
#11
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Fl
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I went to the dealer and sat in both cars. I think I am leaning towards the saddle tan. It is so rich and beautiful. Not too light and not too dark. Thanks for all the advise on leather care.