Resurface Rotors
#2
Yes they can if they are still meeting the minimum thickness after resurfacing. You can argue one way or the other but I always replace warped rotors with a quality replacement versus turning them. If they warped before, they will most likely warp again. You can find good prices and parts on Rockauto. I like the Raybestos advanced technology. I have had them on the rear of my Avalanche for a year and on the back of my RX 350 for 3 months and they seem great so far. They are guaranteed to never need turned. Just my $.02.
#3
I have had mine re-surfaced by Lexus. There is a minimum thickness specification to where they can re-surface to. Somebody who told you otherwise is not competent.
Lexus was wise, they marked my rotors to indicate it has been resurfaced. This was done under warranty.
Lexus was wise, they marked my rotors to indicate it has been resurfaced. This was done under warranty.
#5
Moderator
I have over 150k miles on my RX and never had the rotors turned. I can fell slight vibration when I apply the brakes very lightly. What I am trying to say is, that with proper maintenance one can avoid damage to the rotors. Throttle control and proper braking also help in preventing warped rotors [alos improves gas milage].
Brake jobs as procedure opt for turning the rotors. I am not for that. Granted it gives a very smooth braking. There is anew equipment which mounts on the axle to cut the metal.
Now the down side of turning is that it takes the material off. This makes it more prone to warpage.
Each situation is different. If I need to turn my rotors, I would most prob. swap instead of getting them turned.
Salim
#6
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: st augustine,fl
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^^^ as stated each situation is different. I would rather changed them than to resurface them. especially if it has been many miles since the rotor were placed on the vehicle.
#7
Aftermarket rotors are quite reasonable in price.
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#8
I have question about pulsation a steering wheel during the braking:
When brakes are cool no shake, then after driving some period and using brakes (normal stops or slow down a little) , steering wheel would shake. I've read a lot posts here and read a Service Bulletin for this. But anyway, how many peolple have same problem as me?
Are there any fix for this?
Previous owner had problems with pulsation and pulling and dealer replaced rotors, brakes, re-surfaced couple times. It looked to me it's same problem as I had with Acura 3.2 TL, not enough air flow for cooling brakes pads.
When brakes are cool no shake, then after driving some period and using brakes (normal stops or slow down a little) , steering wheel would shake. I've read a lot posts here and read a Service Bulletin for this. But anyway, how many peolple have same problem as me?
Are there any fix for this?
Previous owner had problems with pulsation and pulling and dealer replaced rotors, brakes, re-surfaced couple times. It looked to me it's same problem as I had with Acura 3.2 TL, not enough air flow for cooling brakes pads.
#9
Moderator
I have question about pulsation a steering wheel during the braking:
When brakes are cool no shake, then after driving some period and using brakes (normal stops or slow down a little) , steering wheel would shake. I've read a lot posts here and read a Service Bulletin for this. But anyway, how many peolple have same problem as me?
Are there any fix for this?
Previous owner had problems with pulsation and pulling and dealer replaced rotors, brakes, re-surfaced couple times. It looked to me it's same problem as I had with Acura 3.2 TL, not enough air flow for cooling brakes pads.
When brakes are cool no shake, then after driving some period and using brakes (normal stops or slow down a little) , steering wheel would shake. I've read a lot posts here and read a Service Bulletin for this. But anyway, how many peolple have same problem as me?
Are there any fix for this?
Previous owner had problems with pulsation and pulling and dealer replaced rotors, brakes, re-surfaced couple times. It looked to me it's same problem as I had with Acura 3.2 TL, not enough air flow for cooling brakes pads.
Safety: make sure the area is clear and you dont have loose objects in the vehicle. If you do this couple of times, you will loose braking ability [brake fade] ... so give yourself more margin as things heat up. Lastly let the brakes cool off before getting back on public street.
Salim
#10
AKA "bedding?"
#11
Try burning off deposits on the rotor. In an empty parking lot go up to 30mph and apply the brakes sharply. What you are trying to do is to elevate the temp of the rotors and pads to level that things burn off (like self cleaning oven). The important point is that once the wheels almost stop turning you should release the brake pressure ... else new deposit from hot pads will be left on the rotor.
Safety: make sure the area is clear and you dont have loose objects in the vehicle. If you do this couple of times, you will loose braking ability [brake fade] ... so give yourself more margin as things heat up. Lastly let the brakes cool off before getting back on public street.
Salim
Safety: make sure the area is clear and you dont have loose objects in the vehicle. If you do this couple of times, you will loose braking ability [brake fade] ... so give yourself more margin as things heat up. Lastly let the brakes cool off before getting back on public street.
Salim
I would do that later today.
#12
i did today, after driving around on raod with traffic lights, it's almost eliminated pulsation to the steering. As I said Lexus didn't bedded brakes after replacing rotors, at least seems too.
#13
Intermediate
Your rotors are warped. It is not so noticeable when they are cold. When rotors heat up from braking, their shape changes unevenly, and you feel pulsation in brake pedal. No burning deposits will eliminate completely this pulsation. The only way is to resurface rotors, if there is enough “meat” there, or replace them, if there is not. Typically rotors are castings (cast iron, not fancy ones from ceramic, like on MB) and have casted number on them. This is so called, “reject size” that tells you minimum thickness of rotor allowed. Any mechanic can measure rotor and tell you if there is enough material to remove, or rotor will become too thin and out of spec.
BWT, stop washing your car right after long trips with heavy braking! The rotors are hot after braking and splash of water distorts them almost instantly, causing warpage.
I also had Acura 3.2TL and quite familiar with front rotors problem and that there is not enough oncoming air to keep them cool. However, since I replaced OEM rotors with blank rotors made by Brembo, problem was gone. I had no need to resurface Brembos for 60+K miles.
BWT, stop washing your car right after long trips with heavy braking! The rotors are hot after braking and splash of water distorts them almost instantly, causing warpage.
I also had Acura 3.2TL and quite familiar with front rotors problem and that there is not enough oncoming air to keep them cool. However, since I replaced OEM rotors with blank rotors made by Brembo, problem was gone. I had no need to resurface Brembos for 60+K miles.
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