Wheel Bearing Replacement, Dealer or Local Shop?
#1
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Thread Starter
Wheel Bearing Replacement, Dealer or Local Shop?
Hi all, I have a failing wheel bearing, front driver side.
I am considering if I should go to dealer for a qualified work, or local shop for a cheaper cost.
I am not sure if this work requires special technique and tools that local shop can handle this?
Any suggestion welcome. Thanks in advance.
Meanwhile, in addition to the new wheel bearing, what else parts should I buy? Seal?
I am considering if I should go to dealer for a qualified work, or local shop for a cheaper cost.
I am not sure if this work requires special technique and tools that local shop can handle this?
Any suggestion welcome. Thanks in advance.
Meanwhile, in addition to the new wheel bearing, what else parts should I buy? Seal?
#2
Moderator
You have many options.
What would I do:
Purchase OEM wheel bearing * and dust deflector snap ring [from auth Lexus dealer] ( and few cotter pins .. can be generic)
Borrow Torque wrench and 30mm (?) socket from an auto shop.
Personally disassemble and separate steering knuckle.
Take the steering knuckle and bearing to machine shop (the ones who do drive shaft repair) [they have the experience and the press] ...est cost $20.00. They will press out the and press-in the new.
Assemble it myself.
If you cant handle the disassembly, then you need to go to a mechanic who hopefully does the above for you. I would discourage going to a well intentioned mechanic who would use sockets and hammer to press out and press in the bearing.
Dealer has advantages and cost to think. Dont forget the huge factor of convenience.
You can price each out.
Also make sure the diagnosis that the bearing is shot is correct. If misdiagnosed, you are back at square one.
Salim
PS: Caution ... the weight of the vehicle should never be on the bearing WITHOUT the spindle/shaft in the center. When you remove the jack-stand/jack make sure the shaft is in the center of the bearing. Hollow lifesaver would crush or at min go out of round without something in the hole.
* Check with dealer if the bearing has been superseded by another part number. [Happened to me on my SC400]
What would I do:
Purchase OEM wheel bearing * and dust deflector snap ring [from auth Lexus dealer] ( and few cotter pins .. can be generic)
Borrow Torque wrench and 30mm (?) socket from an auto shop.
Personally disassemble and separate steering knuckle.
Take the steering knuckle and bearing to machine shop (the ones who do drive shaft repair) [they have the experience and the press] ...est cost $20.00. They will press out the and press-in the new.
Assemble it myself.
If you cant handle the disassembly, then you need to go to a mechanic who hopefully does the above for you. I would discourage going to a well intentioned mechanic who would use sockets and hammer to press out and press in the bearing.
Dealer has advantages and cost to think. Dont forget the huge factor of convenience.
You can price each out.
Also make sure the diagnosis that the bearing is shot is correct. If misdiagnosed, you are back at square one.
Salim
PS: Caution ... the weight of the vehicle should never be on the bearing WITHOUT the spindle/shaft in the center. When you remove the jack-stand/jack make sure the shaft is in the center of the bearing. Hollow lifesaver would crush or at min go out of round without something in the hole.
* Check with dealer if the bearing has been superseded by another part number. [Happened to me on my SC400]
Last edited by salimshah; 08-30-14 at 09:43 AM. Reason: PS
#3
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Thank you. I definitely can not handle this.
Just called my local Lexus dealer, he said it is about $700. Is it a fair price, considering he is a dealer?
Meanwhile, if I go to local repair shop that I trust his honesty, what should I mention to him to take care, ex. "do not use hammer to press out and press in the bearing", is that all?
Thanks so much.
Just called my local Lexus dealer, he said it is about $700. Is it a fair price, considering he is a dealer?
Meanwhile, if I go to local repair shop that I trust his honesty, what should I mention to him to take care, ex. "do not use hammer to press out and press in the bearing", is that all?
Thanks so much.
#4
You will know in the first 2 feet of driving if a shop used a hammer to press in a bearing.
If the shop doesn't have access to a press, don't bother going unless it is understood they outsource that job.
OEM or Timken for the wheel bearing.
Consider doing both fronts at the same time. 2 of my past cars that i serviced wheel bearings individually...i ended up having to do the other side within the year.
If the shop doesn't have access to a press, don't bother going unless it is understood they outsource that job.
OEM or Timken for the wheel bearing.
Consider doing both fronts at the same time. 2 of my past cars that i serviced wheel bearings individually...i ended up having to do the other side within the year.
#5
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I just did my passenger side front bearing this week. I purchased the Timken bearing from Rock Auto for about $42 shipped and paid a shop $45 to press out the bearing and install the new one in the hub. A friend and I did the wrenching to get the hub off. We did have to drill out one of the cotter pins. Labor took about an hour to get it apart and 30 mins to reassemble. Total cost about $100.
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#8
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Bought my RX 300 about a month a go. The PO had jus replaced both front wheel bearings recently at a reputable shop that I have used in the past myself. According to the repair paper work that came with the car they charged $500.00 for the job, and reccomended an alignment. Hope this helps.
#9
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Thread Starter
Thanks for the information. Would you please provide your location and if that cost includes labor, thanks.
Bought my RX 300 about a month a go. The PO had jus replaced both front wheel bearings recently at a reputable shop that I have used in the past myself. According to the repair paper work that came with the car they charged $500.00 for the job, and reccomended an alignment. Hope this helps.
#10
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#11
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Thank you all.
One more question:
My front brake pads are worn out too. I am going to replace the brake pads for the third time on this vehicle.
Without examining the rotors by eyes, can anyone tell me if I should replace the brake rotors too. The rotors have never been replaced yet, and the vehicle has 168000 miles now.
I think the work of replacing the rotors can be done at the same time while replacing the wheel bearing. Am I right?
One more question:
My front brake pads are worn out too. I am going to replace the brake pads for the third time on this vehicle.
Without examining the rotors by eyes, can anyone tell me if I should replace the brake rotors too. The rotors have never been replaced yet, and the vehicle has 168000 miles now.
I think the work of replacing the rotors can be done at the same time while replacing the wheel bearing. Am I right?
#12
Moderator
Rotors for RX come off without removing the bearing..You need to remove the wheel and 2 bolts that hold the caliper and the front rotors practically fall off. The rear may need some backing off the parking brake pads.
Do you have the need to mess with rotors? Are you getting vibrations on braking? Visually you cant tell if the rotors need attention unless there are surface imperfections due to pads not being replaced.
You can consider having the rotors turned. Typically a brake job at shop includes turning of rotors as they want o make sure the customer does not complain. If there are no ruts, a typical rotor can be turned twice before the material gets out of spec.
Salim
Do you have the need to mess with rotors? Are you getting vibrations on braking? Visually you cant tell if the rotors need attention unless there are surface imperfections due to pads not being replaced.
You can consider having the rotors turned. Typically a brake job at shop includes turning of rotors as they want o make sure the customer does not complain. If there are no ruts, a typical rotor can be turned twice before the material gets out of spec.
Salim
#13
you can have your rotors turned as long as there is enough meat on the rotors. 9mm is the minimum thickness on the fronts. You can measure them with calipers or have a local shop measure them for you.
#14
Lexus Test Driver
As long as you don't have shaking symptoms while braking, thickness of the rotors checks out, and there isn't excessive rust then there is no need to replace them.
#15
Driver School Candidate
How long should wheel bearings last? My RX has 140k and I have no wobble or noise yet, but for $200 it may be something I would tackle over a long holiday weekend.
thanks
thanks