De-slugging....is it worth the price?
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
De-slugging....is it worth the price?
I called the dealer yesterday and asked about cost of having the sludge removed from the engine of my very well used RX. He said it ranges from 350-1200 dollars. Does this sound right? Has anyone had it done?
What should I really expect to pay and is it worth it at 260k.
Note: I can see quite a bit of sludge with my scope, so I know it's there.
What should I really expect to pay and is it worth it at 260k.
Note: I can see quite a bit of sludge with my scope, so I know it's there.
#2
Moderator
Are you burning oil or hear metal slapping noise? If not, just get on good oil and regular oil change. Lexmex introduced me to Castroil European formula ... a bit expensive, but lot cheaper than the price range dealer told you.
Also post pictures if you can. With that many miles and RX engine running at elevated miles, you get varnish (thin coat of dried out oil). If you see lumped oil like tar then you oil jell.
Salim
Also post pictures if you can. With that many miles and RX engine running at elevated miles, you get varnish (thin coat of dried out oil). If you see lumped oil like tar then you oil jell.
Salim
#3
Driver
Thread Starter
Are you burning oil or hear metal slapping noise? If not, just get on good oil and regular oil change. Lexmex introduced me to Castroil European formula ... a bit expensive, but lot cheaper than the price range dealer told you.
Also post pictures if you can. With that many miles and RX engine running at elevated miles, you get varnish (thin coat of dried out oil). If you see lumped oil like tar then you oil jell.
Salim
Also post pictures if you can. With that many miles and RX engine running at elevated miles, you get varnish (thin coat of dried out oil). If you see lumped oil like tar then you oil jell.
Salim
Do I dare try the DIY engine flush?
#4
Lexus Test Driver
I think you are looking at the coating that is on the baffle. You can NOT peer into the valvetrain by looking at the fill hole on these 1MZ-FE's, there is a baffle blocking it.
You need to pull of the front valve cover to really find out if there is sludge. It's a 15 minute job.
Don't do anything else till you confirm that there really is sludge in there.
You need to pull of the front valve cover to really find out if there is sludge. It's a 15 minute job.
Don't do anything else till you confirm that there really is sludge in there.
#5
Driver
Thread Starter
I think you are looking at the coating that is on the baffle. You can NOT peer into the valvetrain by looking at the fill hole on these 1MZ-FE's, there is a baffle blocking it.
You need to pull of the front valve cover to really find out if there is sludge. It's a 15 minute job.
Don't do anything else till you confirm that there really is sludge in there.
You need to pull of the front valve cover to really find out if there is sludge. It's a 15 minute job.
Don't do anything else till you confirm that there really is sludge in there.
#6
Lexus Test Driver
#7
Moderator
I will try to get a pic of it (the scope screen is only 2"). It looks like black tar..not jelly, just a scorched black and dark brown coating. It runs quite and good IMO. No smoke either, the only issue I have really is the slow shifting tranny when it's cold.
Do I dare try the DIY engine flush?
Do I dare try the DIY engine flush?
I do not like additives and flushes. I would say, just follow regular oil change (with good quality oil and filter).
When the engine and transmission are cold, your upper gears are locked out. Keep low rpm < 3K till fluids warm up.
Just use and enjoy your RX .. You are close to 1/4 million miles ... enjoy the blessings.
Salim
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#9
Driver
Thread Starter
I took it to the dealer and had the T-belt, water pump, drive belt, cam seal, crank seal and plugs changed.
They recommended a new valve cover gasket and a few other things but I was not prepared to spend more than a grand on this thing right now.
The said there was no serious engine sludge and the only real issue is a bad cat and cracked exhaust. So I guess I will go that direction for now.
#10
Lexus Test Driver
I took it to the dealer and had the T-belt, water pump, drive belt, cam seal, crank seal and plugs changed.
They recommended a new valve cover gasket and a few other things but I was not prepared to spend more than a grand on this thing right now.
The said there was no serious engine sludge and the only real issue is a bad cat and cracked exhaust. So I guess I will go that direction for now.
They recommended a new valve cover gasket and a few other things but I was not prepared to spend more than a grand on this thing right now.
The said there was no serious engine sludge and the only real issue is a bad cat and cracked exhaust. So I guess I will go that direction for now.
Ouch, that must have hurt the wallet!
Keep in mind, if you must go to a dealer for service you can always go to the Toyota dealer if you want to save a few bucks.
#11
i used to have a sludge problem in mine, causing major oil consumption after 1 hr highway driving. I attributed the consumption to the sludge that clogged up my pvc system. At 150k or so, I've sea foamed the intake/pvc system and added seafoam to the oil prior to the last 2 oil changes to dissolve the sludge.
The RX no longer burns oil and the oil is alot cleaner looking after the past couple OCI's.
The RX no longer burns oil and the oil is alot cleaner looking after the past couple OCI's.
#12
Driver
Thread Starter
It was painful, but I did take it to a Toyota dealer, the service our 6 toyota vehicles so they gave me a little break on the price. Still hurt though.
#13
Driver
Thread Starter
i used to have a sludge problem in mine, causing major oil consumption after 1 hr highway driving. I attributed the consumption to the sludge that clogged up my pvc system. At 150k or so, I've sea foamed the intake/pvc system and added seafoam to the oil prior to the last 2 oil changes to dissolve the sludge.
The RX no longer burns oil and the oil is alot cleaner looking after the past couple OCI's.
The RX no longer burns oil and the oil is alot cleaner looking after the past couple OCI's.
How much do you add? Do you just dump it in right before the oil change?
#14
Both instances I added a 1/2 can to the oil and 1/2 through the pcv hose for top end cleaning. Do the top end first, as residues will be burnt off during a short drive.
Do not drive hard or for an extended period of time if its in the oil. Twice around the block is plenty. Then drain and refill with fresh oil.
Do not drive hard or for an extended period of time if its in the oil. Twice around the block is plenty. Then drain and refill with fresh oil.
#15
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: KS
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Eliminating Sludge
Instead of adding half of a can add about 1 ounce per quart of oil at oil changes it will break down the sludge. Also use synthetic oil to prevent future occurences. I do this on every other oil change to maintain.
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