my400brd1

ive heard that the 1999 and 2000 engines have been labeled the SLUDGE ENGINES,does'nt sound good to me. with that in mind ill be changing the oil more frequently than normal, the last owner according to his records used mobil 1 and fram filters. what do you reccommend for a filter are fram filters good for this engine, i use them on my other cars with no problem. just curious as to what other lexus owners use thanks. dave

carguy07

Mobil 1 and K&N make good filters, but there are several others too. I would not put an orange Fram on my lawn mower.

mckellyb

I'm with carguy07.

I'd not use Fram filters on anything.

This said, I'm a big fan of NAPA/Wix filters. I've been using Mobil 1 filters on the RX, but they're becoming more difficult to find, locally.

hypervish

I agree, I wouldn't ever use a FRAM filter or anything. I don't care what it is, that orange can of death isn't going near any or my cars.

I usually use Denso Oil filters, occasionally Purolator If I randomly decide to do an oil change and don't have a toyota filter in the house, although I usually keep a few in stock, or I stop by my uncle's shop and grab one from him.

As long as oil changes are done at 5k oci's, I wouldn't worry about sludge. Sludge can happen to any engine, if you don't change your oil on time. The 1MZ-FE just has smaller oil passages, and the engine run's hotter than other engines in the top end, so that in turn makes it easier to turn oil into sludge.

LA4Mead

On my '99 (145,000+/- miles) I use OE Toyota filters I buy at the Toyota dealer with a coupon when they are on sale for $3.95 each, and I stock up. Upon comparison, the OE filters seem to have better filter elements than those I've purchased at auto parts stores to me.

I let the oil condition guide my intervals. When I was using recommended "energy conserving" oils, the oil would tend to look dirty and feel beat by about 3.500 miles of mixed suburban and highway miles, when it would be down below the "full" mark (but above "add").

Now I've been using Shell Rotella-T full synthetic (about $20/gal) with OE filters. The oil still looks translucent, feels clean, thick, and slippery at around 5,000 when I decide it's about time to change it. Same results I get in my other vehicles including motorcyles with wet clutches.

Rotella-T does not carry the "energy conserving" designation, as - I'm told - it contains the old school anti-wear additive package. It's also a wider viscosity range 5w40. I've been running it on the RX for some time now with no ill effects and good results. The RX used to give a puff of blue for just a second at cold start (temperate climate) on other oils; it seems to have gone away with this oil. I've read that it could have been from valve seals. If anyone knows of any reason why Rotella T (5w40 with the small oil passages) is not a good idea for this engine, I'd like to hear it.

01rxwhite

I personally have had no issues using Fram filters. I don't use the orange one, but the 'durable or gray one' or 'high mileage or gold one' and using synthetic oil at 10k intervals. I tried the new Mobil 1 - 0-30w syn oil last year and had ok results with fuel consumption. Supposedly it lubricates the 'cold' engine better. I'm running the 5-30w Mobil 1 syn this winter and can't tell much difference.

hypervish

I want to try Shell Rotella in the RX300. But, I'm not sure if it's to heavy being a 40 weight and all. I know the german castrol 0w-30 is on the heavier side and almost a 40 weight, and that oil is raved about.

I'll probably give the Shell, a try this summer. I'll be in 100 degree weather a lot, because I'll be spending a month in Sunrise, FL at my cousins house and the 40 weight will probably protect the engine better than a 30 weight in such hot weather.

jcjr

I have had good luck with the PureOne and with all the "metal wars" rebates I have average just a few bucks per filter

Iluvlexus

I use Baldwin filters and Pennzoil ultra in my 140K mile 2001. Oil looks and feels fresh at 4000 miles with minimal drop in the level. Baldwin filters are the best in the industry IMHO.

code58

I'm with LA4MEAD. I buy several at one time with a coupon from the local dealer. They have no limit on how many you can buy with the coupon at one time. I have cut a couple of filters apart (one being an OEM Toyota filter) and I can tell you from cutting other filters apart in the past, like everything else Toyota uses, they are one very fine filter! I pay about $4. apiece for them, but even at retail of about $5.50 ea., I would still choose them over any aftermarket filter. When I bought the '11 Camry for my wife I went around and looked at all of the filters (different brands) and was still more impressed with the Toyota filter than any of the rest, and some of them were a fair amount higher priced than the Toyota. And to top it off, that's one you don't have to cut open to examine because it's cartridge, not canister. I don't remember if I was even able to find a Fram (in this case not orange, but still the "filter of death") I would think Fram would be ashamed for anyone to actually see the trash they produce.

01rxwhite

I must say, I'm intrigued by the both the Rotella-T full synthetic and the dislike for the Fram filters (orange).
I also may try the Rotella this summer. I'm going to take a look at those OEM Toyota filters too. So code58 is a filter cutter! (Just kidding!) In your opinion, would the Toyota OEM filter stand up to a 10k oci? I have used the Hastings filters on my BMW that was a 'cartridge' type where you install it in a permenant filter housing vs the 'canister' type that is screwed on. Is that what is on the new Camry?!

So what's up with the "filter of death' label on the Fram orange filters? Are they failing in some way I haven't heard about?

Carson-Lex

Just wanted to add guys that we still carry the OE Japan Toyota filters that were originally in the vehicle from factory. The 90915-20004, not the new made in thailand and whatnot that the dealers sell now.

Its used a lot by the IS300, GS300, SC300 guys as well as the supra turbo.

this one http://www.l-tunedparts.com/product/?id=2217




Any questiosn please feel free to pm or call anytime

Luis S
310-522-2383

carguy07

Just google fram filters and you will get more than enough info about them.

A 10k oci is playing with fire on these cars regardless of the oil or filter you are using, 5k would be the max IMO.

That's the first cut away of a Japanese Toyota filter that I have seen. The element looks kind of unique, but sturdy.

code58

[QUOTE=carguy07;6985652]Just google fram filters and you will get more than enough info about them.

A 10k oci is playing with fire on these cars regardless of the oil or filter you are using, 5k would be the max IMO.

Carguy- My wife's '11 Camry (4 cyl.) has a 10K mi. OCI as it comes from the factory with synthetic oil. That's what it's spec'd to use. I have 2 yrs. or 25K mi. free oil changes that came with the car but we use the car mostly for local driving, no long trips, so I went ahead and changed it myself at 7500 mi. and used Mobil 1 (because it calls for 0-20W oil) and you can't find it everywhere, and OEM Toyota filter. The oil was quite clean yet at 7500 mi. and on full but being a 3K mi. changer my whole life, going 10K was just a little tough for me to handle. I drive Ford trucks and most of you are not old enough to remember but in the 60's (don't know just when they ended it) the Motorcraft (OEM) filter had printed right on the front with the rest of the printing was prominately displayed "15 thousand mile filter"! Now I never ran one 15K mi., or even close, but that says something about how long some filters will go. One thing about the new cartridge filters on the 2.5 L. Toyota engine, every time you change your oil (and filter), you can SEE what kind of a job it's doing.

Don't know why but they still spec. Dino oil for the 6 Cyl. Must have something to do with the sludging problems they've had. They don't want ANYONE leaving the oil in a 6 that long.

LA4Mead

In our 10+ years older RX300's I can't see the sense in 10,000 mile oil change intervals no matter what kind of driving or oil (or filter) you use, but that's just my opinion. I do 10-15,000 on trans oil... I'm a returning student without an income... I don't have the $ to play with replacing this car with something more modern (fuel efficient!). I need this car to last. Oil changes seem to have proven to be cheap insurance to me.