Steering wheel Vibration/Wobble during braking
#16
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: California
Posts: 17
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I'm not sure of the difference between the two, but when you are talking about the main (front) braking surface, it is best to go with quality.
I like NAPA parts and put on these front rotors about 10k ago. They are still braking nicely and smooth.
If the rotors you have now are original, I would strongly consider replacing them and not resurfacing. Rotors rust after time from inside the cooling vanes and this weakens them. Mine warped due to this weakening from the inside out. Replacing them will give you solid braking surfaces and insure longevity.
Enjoy!
I like NAPA parts and put on these front rotors about 10k ago. They are still braking nicely and smooth.
If the rotors you have now are original, I would strongly consider replacing them and not resurfacing. Rotors rust after time from inside the cooling vanes and this weakens them. Mine warped due to this weakening from the inside out. Replacing them will give you solid braking surfaces and insure longevity.
Enjoy!
As I said before. Too much heat or as someone else added, over torquing, are the only things that will cause your rotors to warp. A rotor that is .060 thinner than a new stock rotor will not slowly warp just because it's thinner. Over heating either one will most likely cause it to warp.
It can only take one panic stop or long steep downhill to over heat your rotors and cause them to warp. If your calipers aren't working just right you can generate more heat on one side of the rotor than the other, causing it to warp. Aftermarket rotors with poor metal qualities can warp more easily, but only if you get them hot.
#17
Lexus Test Driver
Turning, while you'd not think removing a tiny bit of mass would make a significant difference, it does.
I drove my wife's car, exclusively, after having the front rotors, OEM, turned, and they warped with no provocation. Flat land, and I managed to get 95K out of the front pads.
Just go new. As much as I hate to replace what should be reusable, this is one of those things which doesn't pay off.
To me, the best way to 'conserve' is to not use it in the first place, if reasonably possible, or if not, keep whatever it is, in use, as long as it's viable to new. Even then, shop a salvage yard, first.
#18
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: California
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I concur.
Turning, while you'd not think removing a tiny bit of mass would make a significant difference, it does.
I drove my wife's car, exclusively, after having the front rotors, OEM, turned, and they warped with no provocation. Flat land, and I managed to get 95K out of the front pads.
Just go new. As much as I hate to replace what should be reusable, this is one of those things which doesn't pay off.
To me, the best way to 'conserve' is to not use it in the first place, if reasonably possible, or if not, keep whatever it is, in use, as long as it's viable to new. Even then, shop a salvage yard, first.
Turning, while you'd not think removing a tiny bit of mass would make a significant difference, it does.
I drove my wife's car, exclusively, after having the front rotors, OEM, turned, and they warped with no provocation. Flat land, and I managed to get 95K out of the front pads.
Just go new. As much as I hate to replace what should be reusable, this is one of those things which doesn't pay off.
To me, the best way to 'conserve' is to not use it in the first place, if reasonably possible, or if not, keep whatever it is, in use, as long as it's viable to new. Even then, shop a salvage yard, first.
#19
Moderator
I will make a suggestion here [before a more drastic action]
All parties have made their point and now let the readers make up their minds. We have reached a point where further discussion is not adding anything new. Lets agree to disagree and move on.
Happy holidays.
Salim
All parties have made their point and now let the readers make up their minds. We have reached a point where further discussion is not adding anything new. Lets agree to disagree and move on.
Happy holidays.
Salim
#20
Hello Forum
My 2002 RX300 FWD has a steering wheel shake while going over 50 MPH
and hitting the brakes. No shimmy if I am not using the brakes.
Exactly as it mentioned in this thread.
I took it to my shop, and asked for new rotors and pads for the front wheels.
They came back and said I need the following work done:
1.0 FB-PARTS FRONT BRAKE PADS 1 6 9 89.95 89.95
1.0 FB-LABOR FRONT BRAKE SERVICE-LABOR 6 9 99.00 99.00
* ******************************************
1.0 RB-PARTS REAR BRAKE PADS 1 6 9 89.95 89.95
2.0 RB-PARTS REAR BRAKE ROTORS 1 6 9 53.00 106.00
1.0 RB-LABOR REAR BRAKE SERVICE-LABOR 6 9 118.80 118.80
* ******************************************
1.0 PART LF LOWER CONTROL ARM 1 6 I 220.00 220.00
1.0 PART RF LOWER CONTROL ARM 1 6 I 220.00 220.00
2.0 LABOR LABOR 6 I 99.00 198.00
basically, I only need new pads up front, and front rotors cut.
All new rotors/pads rear. And lower control arms front sde.
Does this make sense?
Because I thought , too, upon braking, indicates warped rotors.
Could it also be due to the lower controls arms?
They said the lower control arm bushings are shot.
Thanks
My 2002 RX300 FWD has a steering wheel shake while going over 50 MPH
and hitting the brakes. No shimmy if I am not using the brakes.
Exactly as it mentioned in this thread.
I took it to my shop, and asked for new rotors and pads for the front wheels.
They came back and said I need the following work done:
1.0 FB-PARTS FRONT BRAKE PADS 1 6 9 89.95 89.95
1.0 FB-LABOR FRONT BRAKE SERVICE-LABOR 6 9 99.00 99.00
* ******************************************
1.0 RB-PARTS REAR BRAKE PADS 1 6 9 89.95 89.95
2.0 RB-PARTS REAR BRAKE ROTORS 1 6 9 53.00 106.00
1.0 RB-LABOR REAR BRAKE SERVICE-LABOR 6 9 118.80 118.80
* ******************************************
1.0 PART LF LOWER CONTROL ARM 1 6 I 220.00 220.00
1.0 PART RF LOWER CONTROL ARM 1 6 I 220.00 220.00
2.0 LABOR LABOR 6 I 99.00 198.00
basically, I only need new pads up front, and front rotors cut.
All new rotors/pads rear. And lower control arms front sde.
Does this make sense?
Because I thought , too, upon braking, indicates warped rotors.
Could it also be due to the lower controls arms?
They said the lower control arm bushings are shot.
Thanks
#21
lower control arm bushings do wear out..but its not the cause of the shimmy. The causes are probably due to uneven runout, pad glazing, and/or uneven pad deposits. It takes alot to warp rotors with regular street driving.
#22
Shop just called me back,.....
Fiist time I asked, didn't get this answer,
but this time I asked again if it were
directly related to the rotors. answer is yes it is warped rotors
this time around.
Also, they said the lower control arms would cause
a "clunk" noise when hitting bumps, but not the shimmy while braking at high
speeds. Also, the rears are ok until next oil change.
We will just replace just the front rotor/pads.
Deal with the other problems later....
Will let you know f the shimmy goes away.
Fiist time I asked, didn't get this answer,
but this time I asked again if it were
directly related to the rotors. answer is yes it is warped rotors
this time around.
Also, they said the lower control arms would cause
a "clunk" noise when hitting bumps, but not the shimmy while braking at high
speeds. Also, the rears are ok until next oil change.
We will just replace just the front rotor/pads.
Deal with the other problems later....
Will let you know f the shimmy goes away.
#23
Shop just called me back,.....
Fiist time I asked, didn't get this answer,
but this time I asked again if it were
directly related to the rotors. answer is yes it is warped rotors
this time around.
Also, they said the lower control arms would cause
a "clunk" noise when hitting bumps, but not the shimmy while braking at high
speeds. Also, the rears are ok until next oil change.
We will just replace just the front rotor/pads.
Deal with the other problems later....
Will let you know f the shimmy goes away.
Fiist time I asked, didn't get this answer,
but this time I asked again if it were
directly related to the rotors. answer is yes it is warped rotors
this time around.
Also, they said the lower control arms would cause
a "clunk" noise when hitting bumps, but not the shimmy while braking at high
speeds. Also, the rears are ok until next oil change.
We will just replace just the front rotor/pads.
Deal with the other problems later....
Will let you know f the shimmy goes away.
#24
Racer
I have sorta had a similar issue with my rx lately. For me as well; it seems that whenever braking from higher speeds I am getting a steering wheel shimmying but only when braking from freeway or close to freeway speeds. Same issue here my rotors need replacing? Or is it something else? Also; when braking at regular street speeds Im getting like a "pulsing" of the brakes when coming to a stop. Is this related or is this a totally separate issue?
#25
I have a 2000 Lexus RX300 and when I bought it used (had 168,000+ miles on it), I had the EXACT same problem you are having. I went to Pep Boys to have them resurfaced but they said they were already to thin to be resurfaced. So, I watched a couple YouTube videos, bought & replaced all four rotors by myself and problem solved. My car is very steady when braking from 75 MPH on the freeway.
I have a 2WD 2001 RX300. My steering wheel vibrates/wobbles when i apply brakes at high speeds of about 60-70MPH.
I looked at some of the thread and they point to the front rotors being warped and some threads point to wheel out of balance or out of alignment.
Please can someone help me answer the following questions:
- Should i start checking the rotors first or get the balance/alignment checked first?
- Which brake get used in 2WD when braking. Rear or Front
- Which brake pads get used when using the parking brakes.
- Is it easy to check if the rotors are warped and do i necessarily need to remove the wheel.
And for my case which specific rotors should i look first. Or better would be to go to a free brake inspection place and ask them to check it.
- Is there any specific companies rotors people recommend here. I found that people here prefer buying from rockauto.
Thanks to all the wonderful people on this forum.
Regards,
RT
I looked at some of the thread and they point to the front rotors being warped and some threads point to wheel out of balance or out of alignment.
Please can someone help me answer the following questions:
- Should i start checking the rotors first or get the balance/alignment checked first?
- Which brake get used in 2WD when braking. Rear or Front
- Which brake pads get used when using the parking brakes.
- Is it easy to check if the rotors are warped and do i necessarily need to remove the wheel.
And for my case which specific rotors should i look first. Or better would be to go to a free brake inspection place and ask them to check it.
- Is there any specific companies rotors people recommend here. I found that people here prefer buying from rockauto.
Thanks to all the wonderful people on this forum.
Regards,
RT
#26
I have sorta had a similar issue with my rx lately. For me as well; it seems that whenever braking from higher speeds I am getting a steering wheel shimmying but only when braking from freeway or close to freeway speeds. Same issue here my rotors need replacing? Or is it something else? Also; when braking at regular street speeds Im getting like a "pulsing" of the brakes when coming to a stop. Is this related or is this a totally separate issue?
I would start with the rotors before the shimmy eats the tires.
#27
Racer
Yea i was afraid that rotors might be the answer. As for the braking; not sure because i do not have any abs light coming on; so with that in mind Im sorta inclined to think it could be the rotors as well.
#29
Racer