RX - 1st Gen (1999-2003) Discussion topics related to the 1999 -2003 RX300 models

Sensor Repair turning into NIGHTMARE!!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-31-11, 09:58 AM
  #1  
Tahmeroo
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
 
Tahmeroo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: TX
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Sensor Repair turning into NIGHTMARE!!

I posted a few weeks back about code P1135 on my 02 RX300. I bought the Denso sensor off Amazon, like many suggested here.

The issue is getting the old one off. It's so stuck that an independent mechanic told me they would need to blow torch it (I remember reading this in the DIY thread), which I ok'd, but then came back later, and said something about the threads being damaged or coming off when they do this, possibly leading to the manifold's complete removal and repair including gaskets! Is this true?

I left, keys in hand, saying I wasn't prepared for a $750 repair should the "worst case scenario" happen. I was quoted $140 for the job originally.

Would I be better off going to Toyota? I wanted some insight here first to see if this is a reasonable outcome based on the difficulty they're having getting the old one off. (My brother, who attempted the repair first, couldn't get it off either, but we thought nothing of it since he has no lift at his home and couldn't get good leverage).

And honestly, if a manifold gets ruined in this process, isn't that the shops issue and not mine??

HELP and Thanks
Old 05-31-11, 12:54 PM
  #2  
jasonodsky
Driver School Candidate
 
jasonodsky's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: WI
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Sounds like your shop was honest with you up front and that is a good thing. If the manifold fails when the shop is using accepted common practices to remove the sensor, you are responsible for it.

Unfortunately, due to the high exhaust gas temperatures and the nature of metals to degrade and chemically react under extreme conditions, you may not get the sensor out cleanly.

If your car was always a Texas car, you have a better shot since there is less overall rusting going on. You will need good leverage and the proper tool to remove it. Also, you can try using some PB Blaster to free the threads. Only do this on a COLD manifold as PB Blaster is FLAMMABLE. The next option is a heating torch (probably the blow torch the mechanic referenced. Keep in mind, once you get the torch near the sensor, you will likely fry the sensor leads so you are committed to the repair at that point.

I think if you go to Toyota, you'll just pay more for the same repair.
Old 05-31-11, 02:09 PM
  #3  
Tahmeroo
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
 
Tahmeroo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: TX
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thanks. TX car for a long time...no rust issues. Toyota quoted me only $25 more to do the repair, and I used them also for my timing belt and water pump, so going back.

I found more (very good) info on this site about removing stubborn sensors - seems to be the rule not the exception.
Old 05-31-11, 11:49 PM
  #4  
code58
Lexus Champion
 
code58's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Ca.
Posts: 1,709
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes on 10 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Tahmeroo
Thanks. TX car for a long time...no rust issues. Toyota quoted me only $25 more to do the repair, and I used them also for my timing belt and water pump, so going back.

I found more (very good) info on this site about removing stubborn sensors - seems to be the rule not the exception.
Having spent a good deal of my adult life in automotive work, I can say there is one foolproof way to get it off. The proper tip on an ACETYLENE torch (common torch found in auto shops) and heat around the OUTSIDE of the threads that the sensor goes into. The idea is to expand the threads and quickly unscrew the sensor while the threads are red hot. It may take a second heating to get it all the way out. Any mechanic SHOULD know how to do it. When I lived in cold (rust) country, we used it constantly and I never once had it fail, no matter how rusted the threads were. I never once broke a bolt off when using the torch. Forget the rust buster- the torch is a sure bet, and much faster.
Old 06-01-11, 08:28 AM
  #5  
Tahmeroo
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
 
Tahmeroo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: TX
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I'm happy to report that Toyota had no problems getting it off, completed the repair in a couple of hours, and only charged me $25 more than the independent. They rechecked all sensors and cleared the codes...all is well.

He even commented that he rarely sees clients bring in the Denso sensor, I assume that was meant to be complimentary, it sounded so

So, thanks once again to this forum for helping educate me!
Old 06-01-11, 08:56 AM
  #6  
Carver
Lexus Champion
 
Carver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Dallas, Texas
Posts: 1,717
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 8 Posts
Default

Thanks for reporting back.
Old 06-02-11, 10:42 AM
  #7  
LA4Mead
Driver
 
LA4Mead's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Southern CA
Posts: 166
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Glad yours came out cleanly. When this happened to me, I prepared for the worst and it felt really stuck. I used the PB Blaster technique, and a hammar to carefully tap a long handled screwdriver on the threads. I let it soak for a few hours. When I returned, I was shocked how easily it came out without harming a thing (no salt on the roads in So Cal, either). The new sensor comes with some anti-sieze compound for the reinstallation to make it slick next time, too.
Best luck...

Last edited by LA4Mead; 06-02-11 at 10:46 AM.
Old 06-03-11, 06:02 AM
  #8  
Lexmex
Super Moderator
Senior Moderator
 
Lexmex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Miami, Florida
Posts: 17,247
Received 164 Likes on 140 Posts
Default

PB Blaster works like a saint. I sprayed that on both of my A/F Sensors the night before I did mine and gave the rest of the bottle to my neighbor to get off a bolt on his Acura CL.
Old 06-06-11, 08:58 PM
  #9  
Hatchman
Rookie
 
Hatchman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: VA
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Lexmex
PB Blaster works like a saint. I sprayed that on both of my A/F Sensors the night before I did mine and gave the rest of the bottle to my neighbor to get off a bolt on his Acura CL.
PB Blaster is the best I've use. Luv it. Good for killing wasps too.
Old 06-07-11, 05:51 PM
  #10  
knocker
Driver School Candidate
 
knocker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

What no one mentions here is to use a quality 02 sensor socket. This means one made by either snap on, mac , or matco. It will be the best money you can spend. Also use a long swivel head ratchet. spray down with some kroil. Thye hardest part will be getting off the god damn plastic connector if you follow these instructions.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mlgbwk
RX - 1st Gen (1999-2003)
6
11-24-13 11:16 PM
reisjdmd
RX - 1st Gen (1999-2003)
9
02-16-13 06:32 AM
IndyRX300
RX - 1st Gen (1999-2003)
5
11-27-11 06:59 AM
Tahmeroo
RX - 1st Gen (1999-2003)
4
05-05-11 06:41 AM
kdahs23
ES - 1st to 4th Gen (1990-2006)
5
04-01-11 02:34 PM



Quick Reply: Sensor Repair turning into NIGHTMARE!!



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 09:57 PM.