Sensor Repair turning into NIGHTMARE!!
#1
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Sensor Repair turning into NIGHTMARE!!
I posted a few weeks back about code P1135 on my 02 RX300. I bought the Denso sensor off Amazon, like many suggested here.
The issue is getting the old one off. It's so stuck that an independent mechanic told me they would need to blow torch it (I remember reading this in the DIY thread), which I ok'd, but then came back later, and said something about the threads being damaged or coming off when they do this, possibly leading to the manifold's complete removal and repair including gaskets! Is this true?
I left, keys in hand, saying I wasn't prepared for a $750 repair should the "worst case scenario" happen. I was quoted $140 for the job originally.
Would I be better off going to Toyota? I wanted some insight here first to see if this is a reasonable outcome based on the difficulty they're having getting the old one off. (My brother, who attempted the repair first, couldn't get it off either, but we thought nothing of it since he has no lift at his home and couldn't get good leverage).
And honestly, if a manifold gets ruined in this process, isn't that the shops issue and not mine??
HELP and Thanks
The issue is getting the old one off. It's so stuck that an independent mechanic told me they would need to blow torch it (I remember reading this in the DIY thread), which I ok'd, but then came back later, and said something about the threads being damaged or coming off when they do this, possibly leading to the manifold's complete removal and repair including gaskets! Is this true?
I left, keys in hand, saying I wasn't prepared for a $750 repair should the "worst case scenario" happen. I was quoted $140 for the job originally.
Would I be better off going to Toyota? I wanted some insight here first to see if this is a reasonable outcome based on the difficulty they're having getting the old one off. (My brother, who attempted the repair first, couldn't get it off either, but we thought nothing of it since he has no lift at his home and couldn't get good leverage).
And honestly, if a manifold gets ruined in this process, isn't that the shops issue and not mine??
HELP and Thanks
#2
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Sounds like your shop was honest with you up front and that is a good thing. If the manifold fails when the shop is using accepted common practices to remove the sensor, you are responsible for it.
Unfortunately, due to the high exhaust gas temperatures and the nature of metals to degrade and chemically react under extreme conditions, you may not get the sensor out cleanly.
If your car was always a Texas car, you have a better shot since there is less overall rusting going on. You will need good leverage and the proper tool to remove it. Also, you can try using some PB Blaster to free the threads. Only do this on a COLD manifold as PB Blaster is FLAMMABLE. The next option is a heating torch (probably the blow torch the mechanic referenced. Keep in mind, once you get the torch near the sensor, you will likely fry the sensor leads so you are committed to the repair at that point.
I think if you go to Toyota, you'll just pay more for the same repair.
Unfortunately, due to the high exhaust gas temperatures and the nature of metals to degrade and chemically react under extreme conditions, you may not get the sensor out cleanly.
If your car was always a Texas car, you have a better shot since there is less overall rusting going on. You will need good leverage and the proper tool to remove it. Also, you can try using some PB Blaster to free the threads. Only do this on a COLD manifold as PB Blaster is FLAMMABLE. The next option is a heating torch (probably the blow torch the mechanic referenced. Keep in mind, once you get the torch near the sensor, you will likely fry the sensor leads so you are committed to the repair at that point.
I think if you go to Toyota, you'll just pay more for the same repair.
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Thanks. TX car for a long time...no rust issues. Toyota quoted me only $25 more to do the repair, and I used them also for my timing belt and water pump, so going back.
I found more (very good) info on this site about removing stubborn sensors - seems to be the rule not the exception.
I found more (very good) info on this site about removing stubborn sensors - seems to be the rule not the exception.
#4
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Thanks. TX car for a long time...no rust issues. Toyota quoted me only $25 more to do the repair, and I used them also for my timing belt and water pump, so going back.
I found more (very good) info on this site about removing stubborn sensors - seems to be the rule not the exception.
I found more (very good) info on this site about removing stubborn sensors - seems to be the rule not the exception.
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I'm happy to report that Toyota had no problems getting it off, completed the repair in a couple of hours, and only charged me $25 more than the independent. They rechecked all sensors and cleared the codes...all is well.
He even commented that he rarely sees clients bring in the Denso sensor, I assume that was meant to be complimentary, it sounded so
So, thanks once again to this forum for helping educate me!
He even commented that he rarely sees clients bring in the Denso sensor, I assume that was meant to be complimentary, it sounded so
So, thanks once again to this forum for helping educate me!
#7
Glad yours came out cleanly. When this happened to me, I prepared for the worst and it felt really stuck. I used the PB Blaster technique, and a hammar to carefully tap a long handled screwdriver on the threads. I let it soak for a few hours. When I returned, I was shocked how easily it came out without harming a thing (no salt on the roads in So Cal, either). The new sensor comes with some anti-sieze compound for the reinstallation to make it slick next time, too.
Best luck...
Best luck...
Last edited by LA4Mead; 06-02-11 at 10:46 AM.
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#8
Super Moderator
PB Blaster works like a saint. I sprayed that on both of my A/F Sensors the night before I did mine and gave the rest of the bottle to my neighbor to get off a bolt on his Acura CL.
#9
#10
Driver School Candidate
What no one mentions here is to use a quality 02 sensor socket. This means one made by either snap on, mac , or matco. It will be the best money you can spend. Also use a long swivel head ratchet. spray down with some kroil. Thye hardest part will be getting off the god damn plastic connector if you follow these instructions.
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