You do
Not need to remove the Cam Gears or the back timing cover plate from the Engine to remove the Water Pump.
I just replaced my 2002 RX300 WaterPump Last Night without removing the coverplate or Cam Gears, and it was not a problem. All I did was removed the bolt in the middle of the timing cover to the engine, and pryed the timing cover about a 1/2 inch from the engine, removed the water pump bolts, AND removed the 2 long torx-head studs, and the water pump comes right off.
The timing cover only covers about 1/4"-3/8" of the very top of the water pump housing.
BEFORE REMOVING THE TIMING BELT!!!!:
Getting the new timing belt on was a PIA, I suggest an old trick to make sure the new timing belt/Cams are positioned correctly - the Cams tend to want to rotate 45-deg due to the VVTi;
1) Get the crank and cams all aligned to TDC - the rear timing housing cover on the Right (front) Cam has a timing mark which will line up with the Right Cam Gear
2) The Engine Housing has a not very noticable timing mark at approx 12:00 which will line up with one of the crank gear teeth. Mark the 12:00 Crank Gear/Dot, AND engine housing mark at approx 12:00 with a Red Perm Pen. - Note: The Timing Belt doesnt contact the Crank Gear at this location, so its
VERY Important to do Step 3 below.
3) Mark the Existing Timing Belt with a Red Dot at approx 3:00 position timing Dot on the Crank Gear - Mark the Dot on the crank gear with a small Dot as well - so you can differentiate this dot, and the 12:00 gear tooth that lines up with the engine housing mark.
4) Mark the Right Cam Gear tooth at the timing Dot AND draw a Full Line on Existing timing Belt with a Red Sharpie (red shows up best). This will line up with the timing mark on the top of the timing house cover.
5) Mark the Left Cam Gear tooth with the timing dot and existing Timing belt at that tooth with 2 dots. There is a mark on the timing cover there too, but its very difficult to line up, dont worry about that.
6) Now your ready to remove the timing belt - Remove the timing belt tensioner spring which is located left of the crank gear - its a long cylinder with 2 12mm bolts to the underside of the engine block. It Wont fall apart or fly off, but its tight.
TRY NOT TO ROTATE THE CRANK GEAR. But if you accidentally do, you have the Tooth marked which is at 12:00 - so you know where it needs to go back to.
DO NOT TURN THE ENGINE OVER !!!
The Cam gears will rotate a little because of the VVTi - we will deal with this is a few steps - its teadious, but not too difficult
7) Once the timing belt is removed, most likely the left cam gear will flip 45-deg left or right...this is a pain in the ass, but can be dealt with later...and is why its
SO CRITICAL IMPORTANT to do steps 1-5 above exactly with the Dots ON the old timing belt.
8) Transfer the Dots from the Old belt onto the New Belt exactly so the new timing belt will set the exact number of teeth for the Cam Gears.
9a) If the Left Cam Rotated, turn it to where the tooth with the timing dot is roughly 11:00-11;30 position - the cam will tend to stay there, but will flip 45-deg right or left if you pull on the timing belt.
9b) Line up the double dots on the new Belt with the Left Camp Gear - You MUST do the left gear first, the stupid timing cover makes getting the belt over the left cam impossible later...plus this camp wants to rotate.
10) Guide the TB thru the tensioner and the crank gear - Line up the Single Dot on the new TB with the Crank Gear Dot at about 3:00 position.
11) rotate the left cam gear left or right to remove slack from the belt between the Left Cam gear and the crank gear. this will give enough slack to get the TB on the Right Cam gear.
12) rotate as req'd the right cam gear to get the Full Line on the new TB to line up with the timing mark.
13) use a pry-bar or large flat screw driver, and wedge it between the engine block and the Timing belt Tensioner Arm -this will allow you to get the Spring cylinder back onto the engine block.
14) remove the prybar after the tensioner spring is fully tightened.
15) rotate the crank shaft 10 full turns, then another turn or half until the timing mark on the right cam gear tooth is lined up with the timing cover plate on the right.
16) Ensure that the Full tooth you marked on the crank in Step #2 is aligned with the timing mark on the engine at approx 12:00.
17) You can also try to peak at the timing mark on the left cam to make sure its lined up with the timing mark on the back cover. You can also tape the old TB with the Right and Left cam gear marks edge-on with the new belt and the will visually show you the exact teeth of the Cam Gears line up with the old TB Marks.
18) If this seems too difficult for you STOP and HAVE A PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC do the Job. You cannot be Off by even 1 tooth on any gear.
Sorry no Pics...
Quote:
Originally Posted by RayN
If you are planning on replacing the water pump your need to remove the cam gears. The back one is the pain in the butt. Their is no enough room. You need to remove the cam gear so that you can remove the cover plate, then you will have full access of the water pump. This plate covers 1/4 of the water pump.
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