Low oil light on RX, easy to repair?
#16
Lead Lap
Why not replace the bearing and see what happens? It sounds like an in-car repair, based upon your pix and opinion of your mechanics.
I worked for a component manufacturer (transmissions, axles, brakes, abs, etc); and we had recommended practices and manuals replete with cautions and warnings to not make certain repairs/modifications/changes or the sky would open and the world would come to an end. I saw repairs made to things that you wouldn't believe (like welding teeth back on to drive axle primary gearing, re-welding axle spindles, rebuilding bearing journals with weld and grinding to size, etc) -- and these vehicles were on the road. OK - not to OEM Spec -- but on the road.
Unless you're going to try racing with that engine, you might just get a few years more out of it. My biggest concern would be pieces clogging oil passageways -- but I suspect that the mechanics can hose-out the crankcase and replace the oil pump.
Please post your experience; and Good Luck!
I worked for a component manufacturer (transmissions, axles, brakes, abs, etc); and we had recommended practices and manuals replete with cautions and warnings to not make certain repairs/modifications/changes or the sky would open and the world would come to an end. I saw repairs made to things that you wouldn't believe (like welding teeth back on to drive axle primary gearing, re-welding axle spindles, rebuilding bearing journals with weld and grinding to size, etc) -- and these vehicles were on the road. OK - not to OEM Spec -- but on the road.
Unless you're going to try racing with that engine, you might just get a few years more out of it. My biggest concern would be pieces clogging oil passageways -- but I suspect that the mechanics can hose-out the crankcase and replace the oil pump.
Please post your experience; and Good Luck!
#17
Driver
Thread Starter
The bearings arrive tomorrow. Will try. Mechanic says he will clean the engine with oil and gasoline. I will also ask him to hose the crankcase.
About the pump, he says the is no need to replace. But I'll buy a pressure tool and check before using the car much.
Thank you!
About the pump, he says the is no need to replace. But I'll buy a pressure tool and check before using the car much.
Thank you!
Why not replace the bearing and see what happens? It sounds like an in-car repair, based upon your pix and opinion of your mechanics.
I worked for a component manufacturer (transmissions, axles, brakes, abs, etc); and we had recommended practices and manuals replete with cautions and warnings to not make certain repairs/modifications/changes or the sky would open and the world would come to an end. I saw repairs made to things that you wouldn't believe (like welding teeth back on to drive axle primary gearing, re-welding axle spindles, rebuilding bearing journals with weld and grinding to size, etc) -- and these vehicles were on the road. OK - not to OEM Spec -- but on the road.
Unless you're going to try racing with that engine, you might just get a few years more out of it. My biggest concern would be pieces clogging oil passageways -- but I suspect that the mechanics can hose-out the crankcase and replace the oil pump.
Please post your experience; and Good Luck!
I worked for a component manufacturer (transmissions, axles, brakes, abs, etc); and we had recommended practices and manuals replete with cautions and warnings to not make certain repairs/modifications/changes or the sky would open and the world would come to an end. I saw repairs made to things that you wouldn't believe (like welding teeth back on to drive axle primary gearing, re-welding axle spindles, rebuilding bearing journals with weld and grinding to size, etc) -- and these vehicles were on the road. OK - not to OEM Spec -- but on the road.
Unless you're going to try racing with that engine, you might just get a few years more out of it. My biggest concern would be pieces clogging oil passageways -- but I suspect that the mechanics can hose-out the crankcase and replace the oil pump.
Please post your experience; and Good Luck!
#19
In addition to the bearings, your cylinders are probably also damaged because of friction with piston rings without oil. I assume your mechanic is suggesting thicker oil to close the gap between piston ring and cylinder wall but you can ask him what his reasoning is.
#20
Lead Lap
#21
Driver
Thread Starter
It's not really my decision. Mechanic insists that there is no need to replace the pump. That the failure was caused by the clogged filter (AKA oil return filter?). As a precaution, I will buy a pressure tester. The car is running. Today, I will leave the engine working for 12 hours as per his instruction. I feel the engine noise a bit heavier, though.
#22
Driver
Thread Starter
I received the car from the mechanic today. It runs, there is no oil pressure light, but there is this rattle in start up. I´m afraid some other thing is wrong.
I´m thinking about going to another shop and ask them to open the engine and see what can be done.
You all warned me.
I´m thinking about going to another shop and ask them to open the engine and see what can be done.
You all warned me.
#24
Lead Lap
If it goes silent after just a couple seconds, you might be ok.
It doesn't take much to make noise -- but noise isn't necessarily an indication of failure, per se.
#25
If you're using a straight 40W oil (as opposed to 0W20 or 10W30 etc), it might be understandable for it to take a second or two for oil pressure to get to the valve train -- with a slight noise as the result.
If it goes silent after just a couple seconds, you might be ok.
It doesn't take much to make noise -- but noise isn't necessarily an indication of failure, per se.
If it goes silent after just a couple seconds, you might be ok.
It doesn't take much to make noise -- but noise isn't necessarily an indication of failure, per se.
#26
Driver
Thread Starter
It might be me, but I think it´s not the same car. I just noticed that the rattle appears again at about 3,500 rpm or so. Mechanic said it should get better with time when lubrication spreads. Does it make sense?
I checked online and they say that there might be some small gap between a bearing and the crank. Possibly in the place where the most damaged was taken from. And that oil takes some seconds to fill the gap. Hence the rattle. But waht about the rattle at higher rpm?
#27
Driver
Thread Starter
This makes more sense for me. I think I will go against doctors orders here and use Toyota´s 10w40.
I was using Castrol Magnatec 5W30 because I thought it to be the best within the specs on the manual. Now they say it is what caused the problem to satrt with. I went for a long trip before this and they say the oil might have losen it´s properties. Plus the vehicle mileage.
I was using Castrol Magnatec 5W30 because I thought it to be the best within the specs on the manual. Now they say it is what caused the problem to satrt with. I went for a long trip before this and they say the oil might have losen it´s properties. Plus the vehicle mileage.
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allenjiang
IS - 2nd Gen (2006-2013)
17
06-09-13 02:51 PM