I had to fix the door locks on my 2006 RX330 and thought I'd do a little DIY.
First a big thanks to 2002RX300 and his write up on 1st generation RX300 door locks (http://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-f...-write-up.html
), that's what gave me the courage to try mine.
The motors mentioned in the above write up (MABUCHI FC280PC-22125 from eBay, $11) worked fine for me with a slight modification, you may find a perfect match elsewhere but those worked great for me.
I did not need any sort of gear puller, my worm gear came right off. I needed a phillips and a straight screwdriver, a T-30 torx bit, some plastic pry bars and more patience.
Skip right past the window/door lock panel in the door. It's easy to remove but not necessary. Instead look down in the door pull handle and pry up the little carpet pad to find a screw and remove it. Next gently pry the panel behind the door open handle to find a 2nd screw and take that off too. At the top inner corner of the door near the window is a triangular black panel, it prys off. That makes getting the door on and off easier.
Now use your pry bar, start at the bottom of the door and separate the plastic panel from the metal of the door. Several white plastic press-in pins hold the door on. Pry hard at first, it seems to take alot of force to get the first one to pop. The rest come easier. They are all around the edge of the door. Push up once all the pins are free and the plastic panel should be loose.
Try not to let the panel dangle if it seems like it will damage any of the many wires. You should be able to see where the 2 cables (like bike brake cables) run from the interior door handle to inside the metal door frame. Put the window up at this point if it's down. Remove the white power connector that powers the door locks. Use the torx bit to take out the three bolts on the out edge of the door frame. With some serious gyration you can get the actuator assembly out of the hole where the cables lead in.
Use a rag to protect your nice clean door from the greasy actuator. If everythings dangling at this point, prop it up somehow and grab a stool, it's time to crack open the actuator.
You do not need to open the entire actuator! Remove the long black cap around one edge with a screwdriver blade. Look at the actuator and you'll see a bulge on one corner about the size of the little DC motor. Carefully pop up the little tabs holding the actuator together near this corner. You don't need to do them all! Take out the small screw near the center of the actuator too. Just pry apart the corner about 1" and jam something in there to hold it open. You should be able to see the motor. It connects to the power by 2 small metal tabs molded into the plastic. A little nudge with a screwdriver blade will pop the motor off of these and you should be able to remove it. The worm gear should come with it, or might be left inside, fish it out if so. Toss the old motor in the trash and cuss at it.
The motors I got did not have a flat side on their shaft. 30 seconds with the grinder and I gave it a flat side. Slide the worm gear on the new motor and replace it in the actuator. If you were gentle and careful it should click back together nicely. Replace the screw and the plastic cap along the one side. Be sure your cables are still connected to the actuator. Notice the greased yellow plastic hole on one side, that's where the exterior door rod connects. You'll have to fit that rod into that yellow hole blind so feel it a bit so you'll know what you're grabbing in a minute.
Reverse the gyrations you did to get the actuator assembly back in the hole and lined up on the door frame. Don't screw it in yet. Check that you did not pop any of the cables out, either on the actuator or the other end at the door handle. Slide the actuator down about an inch from it's proper place and you should be able to fish that rod from the exterior door handle into that little yellow hole. I know you can't see it, tough, do it anyway.
Once it's ready slide the actuator up a bit and screw in the torx bits outside the frame. Reconnect the white electrical connection to the actuator. Set the plastic panel back on the window opening.
Stick the key in and test things out at this point. If you're as lucky as me you won't get it all right the first time. I had the cable pop off the door handle a bit and that made the door lock "stutter" when I tried it.
Once it's working reassemble the door like you took it apart. Note some of those plastic white pins (that went "pop") might not have come out of the metal door frame. Look around at them all and pry any out if needed. Replace them on the plastic panel before you try to click it all back in place.
I had to do both the front doors and got it done in about an hour. Best of luck to you.