Alternator
#1
Moderator
Thread Starter
Alternator
I am in need of new rectifier and brushes for sure. Stator and rotors are good and so are the slip rings. Bearings are nice and smooth. I do plan to change the brushes. What do you guys suggest ,,, cheap source of OEM parts would be preferred.
Salim
Salim
#2
Intermediate
For what you will spend for parts, you can buy a brand new ( not rebuilt) TYC alternator for $111 shipped from rockauto.
Last edited by Drcoffee; 08-23-16 at 06:33 PM.
#3
i've sourced a new rectifier and rebuild kit containing brushes, springs, etc.. around 70 if you want to go that route. My preference would be to stick with a Denso unit even if its remanufactured. Cost differs slightly if you are equipped with a towing package or not. 100A vs 130A
#4
Moderator
Thread Starter
i've sourced a new rectifier and rebuild kit containing brushes, springs, etc.. around 70 if you want to go that route. My preference would be to stick with a Denso unit even if its remanufactured. Cost differs slightly if you are equipped with a towing package or not. 100A vs 130A
Amazon alt is $8x and then a lots of option in $1XX
Thanks.
#5
The sources were on ebay after I had entered in the denso part numbers I looked up through store.alternatorparts.com .
#6
Pole Position
You know I have rebuilt that alternator with new brushes and bearings. That is when Sewell Lexus was selling parts. I personally would not rebuild without the bearings. Or you could repack them...I have done that successfully many hundreds of times on some cars and lots of Xerox Machines.
#7
Moderator
Thread Starter
I am itching to do the rebuild. Will visit local yard tomorrow and if I can find the rectifier I will buy it. I am not a fan of after market ... soldering issues .... The yard also has a used alt for about $80. I just might be tempted to buy that and get the RX on road.
My DC voltage was low from the alternator but the AC voltage was about way too much. Blown diodes.
Salim
My DC voltage was low from the alternator but the AC voltage was about way too much. Blown diodes.
Salim
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#8
Intermediate
Does it make sense to add a $100 in parts to a device that has been used for 16 years in all types of environments over 150,000 miles? So you replace a diode and a bearing but other parts are heat stressed and ready to fail. Probably even faster now that you opened up the case to change other parts. I have had good luck with TYC alternators in fact I have one on the RX and our 4runner. Everything is new. Before buying the TYC on the 4runner, I bought a rebuilt Denso. It died within a week and had to be sent back. Its only as good as the technician rebuilding it. And I use the term technician loosely.
How many times when you bench test an alternator and it tests fine until you put it back on the car and it fails again. Thats one part I would never buy rebuilt. Or rebuild.
How many times when you bench test an alternator and it tests fine until you put it back on the car and it fails again. Thats one part I would never buy rebuilt. Or rebuild.
#9
Moderator
Thread Starter
No need to defend your viewpoint DrCoffee. I value all inputs and then decide based on my preferences and more than one times it is not based on $s & Sense. I like to keep my vehicles as close to OEM as I can. Only when the price goes very steep, I sway over to after market.
OEM refurbished would be better only if I refurbish it.
My choice is OEM (salvaged) rectifier and new OEM brushes. <= This can change
Salim
OEM refurbished would be better only if I refurbish it.
My choice is OEM (salvaged) rectifier and new OEM brushes. <= This can change
Salim
#10
Instructor
I salute Salimshah's efforts to discover the most cost-effective methods to keep our aging Gen1 RXs on the road. Example: I have rebuilt my starter twice, each time for a cost of $7.00 per rebuild. DIY but with OE parts (i.e., starter from the Lexus dealer) would be about $350; dealer parts and install would be $650 or more.
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