anyone remove trim and moulding?
#1
Pole Position
Thread Starter
anyone remove trim and moulding?
i want to paint my bumpers/trim/moulding and wondering if anyone's removed them before and how easy or difficult it is. i think there may be some adhesive which might make it a bad idea to remove? i could just spray as is with all the pieces attached but thought i could get better results with the pieces removed.
#2
Moderator
Front or back or both. Doors have cladding which are held by screws. Take the vin to the dealer to get the second color.
Both are really a skin. I would suggest visit one of the Lexus on line parts store, like Lexus of South Atlanta and see the pictures of the parts. It will show you all the screws.
It is fairly simple job, but requires a helper to hold/support the other end.
Touchup always results in mismatch of shades/gloss. Best results are only after a complete paint and clear coat. That requires, spraying equipment, clean room, heaters and skill. Check with bumper repair shops. They can be much cheaper than paint shops. Last I checked with one, they offered the same price drive-in or bring-in. I brought in the bumper as I am **** about ensuring every fastener is used and that assurance comes only when I do the job.
I also added protective rear bumper pad [which was not offered in 99]
Salim
Both are really a skin. I would suggest visit one of the Lexus on line parts store, like Lexus of South Atlanta and see the pictures of the parts. It will show you all the screws.
It is fairly simple job, but requires a helper to hold/support the other end.
Touchup always results in mismatch of shades/gloss. Best results are only after a complete paint and clear coat. That requires, spraying equipment, clean room, heaters and skill. Check with bumper repair shops. They can be much cheaper than paint shops. Last I checked with one, they offered the same price drive-in or bring-in. I brought in the bumper as I am **** about ensuring every fastener is used and that assurance comes only when I do the job.
I also added protective rear bumper pad [which was not offered in 99]
Salim
#3
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Front or back or both. Doors have cladding which are held by screws. Take the vin to the dealer to get the second color.
Both are really a skin. I would suggest visit one of the Lexus on line parts store, like Lexus of South Atlanta and see the pictures of the parts. It will show you all the screws.
It is fairly simple job, but requires a helper to hold/support the other end.
Touchup always results in mismatch of shades/gloss. Best results are only after a complete paint and clear coat. That requires, spraying equipment, clean room, heaters and skill. Check with bumper repair shops. They can be much cheaper than paint shops. Last I checked with one, they offered the same price drive-in or bring-in. I brought in the bumper as I am **** about ensuring every fastener is used and that assurance comes only when I do the job.
I also added protective rear bumper pad [which was not offered in 99]
Salim
Both are really a skin. I would suggest visit one of the Lexus on line parts store, like Lexus of South Atlanta and see the pictures of the parts. It will show you all the screws.
It is fairly simple job, but requires a helper to hold/support the other end.
Touchup always results in mismatch of shades/gloss. Best results are only after a complete paint and clear coat. That requires, spraying equipment, clean room, heaters and skill. Check with bumper repair shops. They can be much cheaper than paint shops. Last I checked with one, they offered the same price drive-in or bring-in. I brought in the bumper as I am **** about ensuring every fastener is used and that assurance comes only when I do the job.
I also added protective rear bumper pad [which was not offered in 99]
Salim
#4
Moderator
You will find the cladding has sides and to paint them you will need to open the doors. For the passenger door sides you can open the front and the passenger door. Not sure how you will be able to get to the leading edge of the front door trim.
Removing the bumper skin is relatively easy. Dont get daunted by that task.
A good paint job needs good prep, which may require preparing the deep scratches. Just painting over makes the scratch worse (imho). I rather live with a scratch than a poor mask over, but that is just me.
Share pictures when you are done.
Not trying to hijack your thread ... but does any one have suggestion on which paint to use for door pillars (exterior). Mine used to be glossy black and now some areas have hint of black.
Salim
Removing the bumper skin is relatively easy. Dont get daunted by that task.
A good paint job needs good prep, which may require preparing the deep scratches. Just painting over makes the scratch worse (imho). I rather live with a scratch than a poor mask over, but that is just me.
Share pictures when you are done.
Not trying to hijack your thread ... but does any one have suggestion on which paint to use for door pillars (exterior). Mine used to be glossy black and now some areas have hint of black.
Salim
#6
Pole Position
Thread Starter
You will find the cladding has sides and to paint them you will need to open the doors. For the passenger door sides you can open the front and the passenger door. Not sure how you will be able to get to the leading edge of the front door trim.
Removing the bumper skin is relatively easy. Dont get daunted by that task.
A good paint job needs good prep, which may require preparing the deep scratches. Just painting over makes the scratch worse (imho). I rather live with a scratch than a poor mask over, but that is just me.
Share pictures when you are done.
Not trying to hijack your thread ... but does any one have suggestion on which paint to use for door pillars (exterior). Mine used to be glossy black and now some areas have hint of black.
Salim
Removing the bumper skin is relatively easy. Dont get daunted by that task.
A good paint job needs good prep, which may require preparing the deep scratches. Just painting over makes the scratch worse (imho). I rather live with a scratch than a poor mask over, but that is just me.
Share pictures when you are done.
Not trying to hijack your thread ... but does any one have suggestion on which paint to use for door pillars (exterior). Mine used to be glossy black and now some areas have hint of black.
Salim
after some research i've decided so far to use rustoleum trim and bumper paint. if anyone can share their experience or knowledge with this or other brands i think many people would be interested. one thing i noticed is that people seem to be having different experiences with the durability/longevity of the paint job. some people say the paint chips or comes off after a wash while others say it lasts for years. since they're using the same products i wonder what's causing those mixed results? i initially thought i wouldn't have to respray ever again, but having to every 6 - 12 months or so is just way too often and might make me reconsider.
#7
Moderator
Sorry for the smart *** answer below ...
1. Base prep ... strengthen the base, fill, sand/smooth/shape. Leveling with adjacent area. May include removing wax/oil.
2. Base coat ... create bonding between base and the next step
3. Tint... this is the actual color. Blending the boundaries and color matching. Some colors are metallic and some have additives like crushed pearls.
4. Clear coat or many layers of clear coat and wax. Actual protection from elements.
It is a skill that takes lot of practice. It is art and little science.
There is another side ,,, expectation. If some one is easy to please then a mediocre job can be good enough. My wife picks up difference in hue, even if the process was done top notch.
Salim
1. Base prep ... strengthen the base, fill, sand/smooth/shape. Leveling with adjacent area. May include removing wax/oil.
2. Base coat ... create bonding between base and the next step
3. Tint... this is the actual color. Blending the boundaries and color matching. Some colors are metallic and some have additives like crushed pearls.
4. Clear coat or many layers of clear coat and wax. Actual protection from elements.
It is a skill that takes lot of practice. It is art and little science.
There is another side ,,, expectation. If some one is easy to please then a mediocre job can be good enough. My wife picks up difference in hue, even if the process was done top notch.
Salim
Last edited by salimshah; 06-04-16 at 05:28 PM.
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#8
Rear bumper: if you've ever changed the rear marker lights, you already know about the hidden 10mm coarse screw bolts on the sides and the big white clips. There are some clips on the bottom and 4 hidden bolts you access from the spare tire well. I don't think you need to remove any interior trim to get to those. Oh, and the two screws at the corners when looking towards the front. I don't think there is any adhesive on the bumper.
I had to have a rear door replaced once for damage and they replaced the entire thing. The trim looked good but the whole door got switched. When I asked why, the guy said that was how it was sold; it was too difficult to remove the trim and put it on a new door. I don't know if that was horse pucky or if you destroy the trim trying to take it off. :/
I had to have a rear door replaced once for damage and they replaced the entire thing. The trim looked good but the whole door got switched. When I asked why, the guy said that was how it was sold; it was too difficult to remove the trim and put it on a new door. I don't know if that was horse pucky or if you destroy the trim trying to take it off. :/
#9
Pole Position
Thread Starter
so i tried to peek under the cladding and it looks like the body behind the cladding might be painted? does anyone know if it's painted i.e. if the cladding were removed the car would be all the same color (aside from the bumpers)?
#10
A pure, unadulterated guess: I would say yes just for the simplicity of painting. I imagine they hang that doors and spray paint all over, then dry. Afterwards they would apply the cladding. It would save on labor from having to tape off the cladding.
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