RX - 1st Gen (1999-2003) Discussion topics related to the 1999 -2003 RX300 models

anyone remove trim and moulding?

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Old 06-03-16, 11:31 PM
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hsmac
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Default anyone remove trim and moulding?

i want to paint my bumpers/trim/moulding and wondering if anyone's removed them before and how easy or difficult it is. i think there may be some adhesive which might make it a bad idea to remove? i could just spray as is with all the pieces attached but thought i could get better results with the pieces removed.
Old 06-04-16, 12:12 AM
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salimshah
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Front or back or both. Doors have cladding which are held by screws. Take the vin to the dealer to get the second color.

Both are really a skin. I would suggest visit one of the Lexus on line parts store, like Lexus of South Atlanta and see the pictures of the parts. It will show you all the screws.

It is fairly simple job, but requires a helper to hold/support the other end.

Touchup always results in mismatch of shades/gloss. Best results are only after a complete paint and clear coat. That requires, spraying equipment, clean room, heaters and skill. Check with bumper repair shops. They can be much cheaper than paint shops. Last I checked with one, they offered the same price drive-in or bring-in. I brought in the bumper as I am **** about ensuring every fastener is used and that assurance comes only when I do the job.

I also added protective rear bumper pad [which was not offered in 99]

Salim
Old 06-04-16, 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by salimshah
Front or back or both. Doors have cladding which are held by screws. Take the vin to the dealer to get the second color.

Both are really a skin. I would suggest visit one of the Lexus on line parts store, like Lexus of South Atlanta and see the pictures of the parts. It will show you all the screws.

It is fairly simple job, but requires a helper to hold/support the other end.

Touchup always results in mismatch of shades/gloss. Best results are only after a complete paint and clear coat. That requires, spraying equipment, clean room, heaters and skill. Check with bumper repair shops. They can be much cheaper than paint shops. Last I checked with one, they offered the same price drive-in or bring-in. I brought in the bumper as I am **** about ensuring every fastener is used and that assurance comes only when I do the job.

I also added protective rear bumper pad [which was not offered in 99]

Salim
my original trim color was silver and i'm going to be painting it matte black with no clear coat. it looks like most people just cover up the rest of the car and spray right on to the parts -- the bumpers are probably more laborious to remove than the trim so maybe i'll leave those on. problem is with the rear bumper the trunk has to be open to get to the expose the entire bumper. looks like with the spray paint i'm using people get pretty good results and since the paint and parts aren't currently in the best condition i think doing it myself will suffice. the only thing i'm really worried about is debris getting in the paint as it dries especially since my car sits outdoors.
Old 06-04-16, 02:12 AM
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salimshah
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You will find the cladding has sides and to paint them you will need to open the doors. For the passenger door sides you can open the front and the passenger door. Not sure how you will be able to get to the leading edge of the front door trim.

Removing the bumper skin is relatively easy. Dont get daunted by that task.

A good paint job needs good prep, which may require preparing the deep scratches. Just painting over makes the scratch worse (imho). I rather live with a scratch than a poor mask over, but that is just me.

Share pictures when you are done.

Not trying to hijack your thread ... but does any one have suggestion on which paint to use for door pillars (exterior). Mine used to be glossy black and now some areas have hint of black.


Salim
Old 06-04-16, 02:49 AM
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hsmac
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does anyone know any good resources for prep directions?
Old 06-04-16, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by salimshah
You will find the cladding has sides and to paint them you will need to open the doors. For the passenger door sides you can open the front and the passenger door. Not sure how you will be able to get to the leading edge of the front door trim.

Removing the bumper skin is relatively easy. Dont get daunted by that task.

A good paint job needs good prep, which may require preparing the deep scratches. Just painting over makes the scratch worse (imho). I rather live with a scratch than a poor mask over, but that is just me.

Share pictures when you are done.

Not trying to hijack your thread ... but does any one have suggestion on which paint to use for door pillars (exterior). Mine used to be glossy black and now some areas have hint of black.


Salim
sorry for some reason the webpage did not load with your reply so i didn't see it. could you rename the thread so it pertains to painting? hopefully we can get some more participation in the thread. i'm curious how many people have repainted or customized their RX's. it would be great to get tips on prep and what kinds of materials to use too.

after some research i've decided so far to use rustoleum trim and bumper paint. if anyone can share their experience or knowledge with this or other brands i think many people would be interested. one thing i noticed is that people seem to be having different experiences with the durability/longevity of the paint job. some people say the paint chips or comes off after a wash while others say it lasts for years. since they're using the same products i wonder what's causing those mixed results? i initially thought i wouldn't have to respray ever again, but having to every 6 - 12 months or so is just way too often and might make me reconsider.
Old 06-04-16, 05:25 PM
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salimshah
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Sorry for the smart *** answer below ...

1. Base prep ... strengthen the base, fill, sand/smooth/shape. Leveling with adjacent area. May include removing wax/oil.
2. Base coat ... create bonding between base and the next step
3. Tint... this is the actual color. Blending the boundaries and color matching. Some colors are metallic and some have additives like crushed pearls.
4. Clear coat or many layers of clear coat and wax. Actual protection from elements.


It is a skill that takes lot of practice. It is art and little science.

There is another side ,,, expectation. If some one is easy to please then a mediocre job can be good enough. My wife picks up difference in hue, even if the process was done top notch.

Salim

Last edited by salimshah; 06-04-16 at 05:28 PM.
Old 06-06-16, 10:29 AM
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thaeleelyr
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Rear bumper: if you've ever changed the rear marker lights, you already know about the hidden 10mm coarse screw bolts on the sides and the big white clips. There are some clips on the bottom and 4 hidden bolts you access from the spare tire well. I don't think you need to remove any interior trim to get to those. Oh, and the two screws at the corners when looking towards the front. I don't think there is any adhesive on the bumper.

I had to have a rear door replaced once for damage and they replaced the entire thing. The trim looked good but the whole door got switched. When I asked why, the guy said that was how it was sold; it was too difficult to remove the trim and put it on a new door. I don't know if that was horse pucky or if you destroy the trim trying to take it off. :/
Old 07-06-16, 08:09 PM
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hsmac
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so i tried to peek under the cladding and it looks like the body behind the cladding might be painted? does anyone know if it's painted i.e. if the cladding were removed the car would be all the same color (aside from the bumpers)?
Old 07-07-16, 07:21 AM
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thaeleelyr
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Originally Posted by hsmac
so i tried to peek under the cladding and it looks like the body behind the cladding might be painted? does anyone know if it's painted i.e. if the cladding were removed the car would be all the same color (aside from the bumpers)?
A pure, unadulterated guess: I would say yes just for the simplicity of painting. I imagine they hang that doors and spray paint all over, then dry. Afterwards they would apply the cladding. It would save on labor from having to tape off the cladding.
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